SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 2, 2020 What did he do to build it? For that price he didnt even put a r&d powerbowl 2 on it? Thats mind altering. Why did you need a custom intake? They just bore the inner diameter of the carb right? The outside shouldnt change? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 2, 2020 20 hours ago, SlammedRanger said: What did he do to build it? For that price he didnt even put a r&d powerbowl 2 on it? Thats mind altering. Why did you need a custom intake? They just bore the inner diameter of the carb right? The outside shouldnt change? Everything internally but the slide was replaced, it was taper bored, carb looked brand new when he was done. He also did an ap mod and a mod in the bowl. He wouldnt tell me what he did there but idc it works! The intake isn't for that carb haha. I have a new carb I'll be installing shortly. I wont show you just yet you'll ! yourself🤭😂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 2, 2020 13 minutes ago, TRX2FiveO said: Everything internally but the slide was replaced, it was taper bored, carb looked brand new when he was done. He also did an ap mod and a mod in the bowl. He wouldnt tell me what he did there but idc it works! The intake isn't for that carb haha. I have a new carb I'll be installing shortly. I wont show you just yet you'll ! yourself🤭😂 Gotcha! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 5, 2020 ***Update*** had an hour today to work on the quad. The new wrist pin weighed exactly what CP said it would. Down to the final touches. Gunna hear this thing thump today! Been a long time coming! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 5, 2020 ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!! Muhuhahahaha. Uploading the video to youtube as we speak. Runs absolutely perfect. Sounds and feels dirty! You can feel every revolution in your chest. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,880 Posted March 5, 2020 14 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said: i hear what sounds like loose valves ??. or cam chain ?. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 5, 2020 It goes away at the end of the video. It was ticking pretty good until it got the oil to the topend. I did set the valves a tad loose also and will be adjusting them again after heat cycles. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 8, 2020 Ready for a break-in run tomorrow. And got my daughters quad out for some family fun while we wait for it to cool down. Gunna try to get both break-in runs tomorrow. The easier one and the bruital beating. Had to leave the 13/38 gearing in it for now. Found out i cant do 14/38. I gotta do 14/39 unless i use a half link on the chain. So i got the 39 on order. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 8, 2020 Gonna need more... can ya put a 36 on the back? I can't wait to hear the ride report. 🙂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 8, 2020 I dont think a 36 will work. 35 or 37. The chain and 14 tooth front only lets me do odd numbers lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 8, 2020 I was thinking 13/36 might work? You'll learn more about your gearing needs tomorrow though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 8, 2020 Ahh yeah 13/36 would work. What i know for sure. My case saver will not fit a 15. LoL 14 is biggest i can go on the front. And my chain guard in the back says it can only go down to a 36. Not sure why? Cant honestly see an issue with going smaller if needed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 8, 2020 Slow down, go faster... I'll bet that you'll need taller gearing than 13/36 to buffer the acceleration violence where rubber meets the dirt. You just put approximately 20% increase in torque in it. 38 / 13 = 2.92307692308 final drive 36 / 13 = 2.76923076923 final drive I'd be looking for one more tooth taller to bring along, then go test those combos with the lap timer to determine the keeper. On dirt tracks, the tallest geared vehicle on the track is always the fastest lap producer. The tallest geared vehicle on the track has more torque than the others. 🙂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 8, 2020 Well guys and gals. Today has been a rollorcoaster of emotion. First ride down the road. Thought i seized it or blew it up. I was cruising along varying throttle position and not really in it hard or anything. It stumbled and popped a few times and died. After sitting on the quad with my head down for a few seconds thinking all the work i did for nothing. THE GAS WAS TURNED OFF.......LOL fired right back up. Felt real stupid and continued on. After letting it cool down and checking the oil i took it for the shakedown. And i have created a monster. Its mega rich like puffing fuel smoke when i rev on it hard rich. But wow is it powerful. My parents dont have a big enough yard to feel it at its full potential. But it makes its best attempt at throwing me off in every gear. I cracked it wide open one time and i was in 4th gear and i almost looped out. Needless to say 13/38 is a no go. Honestly though im thinking stock gearing 14/39 will be good to go. Im not drag racing it so topspeed doesnt matter much to me honestly. Shes a salty ! Though. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 9, 2020 Salty ! is right! Its a torque monster! 😀 Volumetric Efficiency (cylinder filling and emptying efficiency) is much improved thats why its running way too rich on your 416cc jetting. You're gonna need a lot taller gearing than 14/39 to make that bike go where you point it. 13/36 won't be tall enough to keep ya from looping it exiting corners either, I'll betcha $100 ya can't prove me wrong with a lap timer! 🤑 Congrats on your build buddy! Its smart stuff, a genuine torque monster! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 9, 2020 I should have just went with my gut on the jetting. I always thought honestly it was pretty safe jetted before so pretty rich. Not enough to puff smoke but a pretty dark plug. But i actually went bigger than my 416 jetting on the main. And i turned the mixture half a turn out more. Next thing im doing is changing the oil filter. Pull the plug and check and clean it. Put the 190 main back in it. And going in that half a turn. That will put me at a 50 pilot jet. 2 turns on mix. 190 main. Needle one slot down from mid. We will see how that does. But the 200 i have in it now is without a doubt to much. No smoke at idle. But when i rev on it she was puffing pretty good. All greyish black smoke so i know its fuel. But i dont want it to wash my new cylinder either so i stopped the breakin alittle short for that reason. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 11, 2020 190 main jet is in it. No more smoke. Changed the oil filter. Found some glitter in the filter i cut open after breakin. Hopefully thats not a problem. The way i understand it is to be expected but should be caught in the first few oil filters then completely go away. Is my understanding correct or am i screwed? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Misterclean 421 Posted March 11, 2020 10 hours ago, SlammedRanger said: 190 main jet is in it. No more smoke. Changed the oil filter. Found some glitter in the filter i cut open after breakin. Hopefully thats not a problem. The way i understand it is to be expected but should be caught in the first few oil filters then completely go away. Is my understanding correct or am i screwed? Glitter......that sounds like a lot of metal. Use a magnet to see if it's steel or aluminum. Either way that sounds a little scary. I'd leave it for now and check your filter often. Tear it down to inspect if it continues. So sorry to hear this ........but I'm very excited about the power increase! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 11, 2020 Well i guess glitter would be alot more than what i was seeing. The pieces are small enough i cant even pick them up on my finger nail. It just feels alittle gritty in my fingers. I wonder if its something to do with all the assembly lube i used. Or maybe the copper spray i used on all gaskets? It isnt in the oil itself. Just when i dumped the inside of the oil filter and cut it open. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 11, 2020 I also kinda wonder if it was still in the oil cooler from the original crank failure. I was straining the oil for alittle bit since i had a few rides to go on still. I wonder if the new oil pump pressure was just enough to force it out of places the old pump wasnt. Either way very scary! Honestly the glitter statement was alittle agressive. It in total was about as much as you could fit under your fingernail it was very spread out. The individual pieces did appear glitter like. Didnt check if they are magnetic or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted March 11, 2020 I would consider it a build flush and check on the second change before I got too worried about it. We clean, clean, clean when building but heat and friction can break little particles loose during break in. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 11, 2020 The oil cooler and hoses should have been flushed and refilled with fresh oil while the motor was out. The cylinder should have been scrubbed thoroughly after the final hone too. But you know all that... You should not be seeing very much metal trapped in the filter, but it is normal and expected to find some very fine particles during the first hour of runtime on a new motor because the cylinder bore and piston rings are shedding a LOT of material. If the camshaft/lifters are new as well they are big contributors of metal particles too. You'll see the most metal being shed during the first 10-15 minutes of runtime. After the first session oil change metal shedding should decrease a lot, such that by the time you have 30 minutes on the motor (and it has reached operating temp at least twice) there should be almost none trapped in the filter and the camshaft/lifters should be 99% broken in. After the first hour of run time shedding is pretty much completed, the cylinder is about 96%-99% broken in at that point, depending on the hone grit and piston ring material. If you are still seeing ANY metal particles trapped in the filter after three oil changes and 1 hour of runtime, you have a very serious problem somewhere. You can use a strong magnet to separate the steel/iron particles inside the filter from any aluminum or brass particles to help you assess the condition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 11, 2020 Didnt flush the oil cooler or oil tank. Did remove the screen at the bottom of the tank and found nothing in it. Why i didnt go crazy cleaning. The cylinder cleaning i did consist of my machine guys parts washer. My parts washer. Then after it all was dry i took it into a wash tub full of soapy water and scrubbed and cleaned until i could run a white paper towel through it with no marks on it. I then let it dry and wiped the bore down with oil so it wouldnt flash rust. I have never cut open an oil filter after a rebuild and this filter is still the one used in the first start up. I did my first filter change after the break-in ride. There is a new filter in there now and i hope to see a major decline or even no more glitter. If i see it after i do the first oil change in the 2nd oil change im gunna really be worried. Thanks everyone for the helpfull info. I dont know if i could handle this crank failing on me this quick. Man will i be dissapointed. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
