retro 4,048 Posted January 23, 2020 2 hours ago, SlammedRanger said: ***Update*** i got my ported and polished cylinder head back. Oh man is she pretty! Five star outstanding I'd say!!! They did top-drawer work on everything Slammed! The chamber roof was flattened to remove excess casting, all valve seats relieved out to the bore diameter, the chamber work is truly an eye-catcher. That sort of quality in chamber rework is very rare. They nailed it! The valve bowls look to be perfectly shaped and relieved too. The port roofs are generously swept from/into the expansion areas from the bowls and the port floor transition radius' from the bowls are broadly swept into the port floor flats too. Thats top-drawer work ya got there man... its much better than I ever expected to see! Its gonna be a torque monster! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 23, 2020 Well i did end up asking if they do it themselves in house? Or send it out. They do send it out. To the best of the best. CT racing did it. They just send them heads alot and get a better price. Honestly it looks like they charged me the same it would have been to send it to CT. But they make alittle money on the job so im good with that. Nothing but good things to say about BP. Im impressed! And impressing retro is a hard task at hand! LoL 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 24, 2020 If I could nit-pick just one thing... the intake ports should have been left with a rougher, uglier texture on the port walls all of the way to the valve seats. But the work is so well done that I ain't able to nit-pick nuthin'! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 24, 2020 5 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said: Nothing but good things to say about BP. Im impressed! And impressing retro is a hard task at hand! Haha... You impress me everyday dude! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 24, 2020 I was thinking the same thing. The other thing that concerned me just a tiny bit was the shaving the guides flat. It left like a small pocket down next to it on one side. Air should flow right across because its so flush with the floor. And no way it could impead flow anymore than the big guide sticking up in there like it was before. The shaving the guide doesnt effect the valve stability or strength? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 24, 2020 8 minutes ago, retro said: Haha... You impress me everyday dude! I didnt mean it so much that way. Although i do appreciate it! We both have similar OCD like pickyness. And you have the knowledge to back it up. Im just extremely detail oriented and will look at something 1000 ways to sunday. Thinking every step out with precision. Except that piston fiasco. I cant take credit for that lol 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 24, 2020 2 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said: The shaving the guide doesnt effect the valve stability or strength? No, not on the combustion chamber end of the valve guides. Remember, the valve does not ever experience any deflection pressures on that end of the guide. It simply opens and closes in a perfectly straight reciprocating motion. Machining the end of the guide flat improves support strength of the guide end and prevents cracks from forming in the guide. Now, if you shave the other end of the valve guides you will compromise valvetrain stability, because the rocker arms apply deflection pressures in an arc onto the top of each valve stem. Those sweeping arcs of deflection pressure push/bend the valve stems away from the valve guide centerline and away from the rocker arm pivot centerline, the valves are forced sideways.... high pressure is exerted at the beginning of each valve opening event, then almost no deflection pressure is observed in the center of the rocker arm arc, then high pressures again are exerted nearest max valve opening. High seat pressure valve springs multiply those deflection forces effects. At high RPMs those valves are forced to bend four times each open/close event... they are somewhat flexible and so are the top of the guides. Perfect symmetrical reciprocating valve motion is lost, the valve train becomes unstable and sets up harmonic vibrations. That causes power to suffer due to extra friction loading on the valvetrain and parts begin to wear rapidly and break. Its ok to shave excessive guide extension protruding into the ports. The valve will remain stable and the port will flow more air... But do not ever shorten the guides on their opposite ends. If you need more space under the retainers for longer, heavier springs that will allow higher valve lifts, increase the lengths of the valve stems. In cases where the rocker arm arc radius will be severe you must use a roller bearing (roller rockers) to minimize deflection forces on the stem tips and to maintain contact with the valve stem tips. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 24, 2020 Gotcha makes sense and eases my mind! I didnt figure they would do it if it was an issue. Just my typical over analyzing haha. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 24, 2020 You are a technician Slammed. And a darn good and darn thorough one at that! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 27, 2020 **Update** All the valves are lapped and springs installed. New valve seals. And spring seats. Still waiting on custom piston. Got the header wrapped and painted also. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted January 28, 2020 Oh that's pretty.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted January 28, 2020 Heres the header all dei wrapped and painted. Gunna throw it on the grill tomorrow and then hit it with dei sealer. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eyewitness89 29 Posted February 6, 2020 I know I'm way late on this thread, I did however want to share some advice pertaining to blasting. (I'm by no means an expert). I would highly advise staying away from glass bead on internal parts. It leaves a whitish powdery grit on everything. I spent countless hours with an actual brass wire brush trying to clean it off. Reason for staying away from glass is if not thoroughly cleaned out, it can get into moving internals and lock them up. Ie. Intake manifolds, cant get it all out, doesn't wipe off. I personally like walnut shell at 90 psi. I'm going to attach pics of the intake manifold off my 85 dodge that I "refinished" (still finishing). Before and current pics (mind you I picked this truck up running for 500 bucks lol) 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted February 6, 2020 Yeah that looks real good! I ended up using fine grit walnut shell on my whole thing also. Except the header pipe. All engine parts cases and stuff all got walnut shell at around 100 or so psi. Heck i even used it to clean the gasket surfaces at a lower pressure. They looked brandnew when i was done. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted February 20, 2020 Got a ups notification about the piston being delivered tomorrow. Means im one large step closer to hearing this monster thump. Also got my jersey back today all lettered and numbered up. Heres a photo. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted February 27, 2020 **Update** piston is in hand! I took it to my machine shop and he turned around my bore and hone in 1 day. So im gunna go over some things i learned along this whole process. Hopefully this can help someone out in there build some day. 1. Hotrods cranks use a stock length rod in there 400ex stroker cranks...ask me how i know? LoL 2. Pistons have to be custom built unless your doing a 460cc build. In that case the pistons are produced by a few manufacturers. Vertex, CP are the ones i know for sure 3. LA sleeves require more machine work than they tell you up front. I purchased a STD bore sleeve, pressed it in and it was sticking out the top of the jug (head gasket surface) by .010 or so. Machine shop guy spun it down on a lathe to .001. They also claim it requires a quick hone and your in business. This is 100% not true. There stock bore sleeve measured 83.5mm stock bore is 85mm. 4. This is the last one i promise! Do NOT believe anything the places you talk to say! Check everything for yourself measure,weigh, and anything else you can do to make sure everything is correct. CP pistons claims they can make my second piston(this goes back to the crank rod length situation) within 1 gram of the first one. They cannot and did not. My machine shop and i weighed both pistons(rings, wristpins and clips) and they were off by 7.5 grams between the two. Which to some thats not a problem. But when you pay 500 dollars to have your crank balanced to within 5 grams of perfection you want to land in that 5 grams. CP did make it right by sending me a wrist pin that makes up the weight difference.(Supposedly). We will see when i get it and put it on the scale. Sorry for the rant guys but this process has been like dealing with a kid. Claiming they cleaned there room. But we all know they didnt lol. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,864 Posted February 27, 2020 now I know why I stay stock !!..lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 27, 2020 4 hours ago, SlammedRanger said: CP did make it right by sending me a wrist pin that makes up the weight difference.(Supposedly). We will see when i get it and put it on the scale. If that replacement wrist pin doesn't weigh out like they claim there are two places on the piston where you can remove material to lighten it. Flip the piston over and you should find extra thick aluminum wrist pin bosses on each side.... those bosses are usually flattened during the forging process and sometimes they will already be machined flat if the piston was weight-matched at the factory. You can mill off equal amounts of aluminum from those pin bosses to lighten the piston up some more as necessary, since that's their intended purpose for being there. You're dead right about trusting nothing when it comes to racing. You must take everything apart, weigh, measure, mock-fit etc. that you buy, no matter what it is. I have bought brand new dry-sump oil pumps and found them full of metal particles from factory machining before. I once opened a new box of eight high-dollar steel H-beam rods and found one that had a slightly crooked rod bolt hole drilled and tapped in it. Those bad parts lists stretch on and on.... trust nothing, trust no one, not ever. And take your time... it takes months to build a good racing motor, not days or weeks. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 1, 2020 Looks like you're on the way to a good build? You should see 50hp easy on the Dyno. Tq. will be much better with the stroked bottom. Yo'll have them 450 guys scratching their noodle. But a piece of advice.... that 39 mm FCR ain't gonna cut it. You'll need at least 43 mm or more, ask me how I know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 1, 2020 5 minutes ago, TRX2FiveO said: Looks like you're on the way to a good build? You should see 50hp easy on the Dyno. Tq. will be much better with the stroked bottom. Yo'll have them 450 guys scratching their noodle. But a piece of advice.... that 39 mm FCR ain't gonna cut it. You'll need at least 43 mm or more, ask me how I know! You really think so? They use the fcr39 on the 460cc builds. I may have to send my 39 out and get bored......man more money....lol Fingers crossed the 39 is good enough! LoL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 2, 2020 1 hour ago, SlammedRanger said: You really think so? They use the fcr39 on the 460cc builds. I may have to send my 39 out and get bored......man more money....lol Fingers crossed the 39 is good enough! LoL Danny @ jetlab did my FCR. 43.5 mm . Trust me you're gonna need the extra flow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 2, 2020 Haha you should see my new carb. I had to have an intake custom made too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammedRanger 1,556 Posted March 2, 2020 What did the bore cost? Man im tapped out on money hard! Hopefully my little cam can make me not need it? Please lord! Haha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 2, 2020 47 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said: What did the bore cost? Man im tapped out on money hard! Hopefully my little cam can make me not need it? Please lord! Haha 380.00 to build and bore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRX2FiveO 42 Posted March 2, 2020 Here is my new intake. Before I did the final bore shaping 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
