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Awrenchturner

2001 Trx350fm oil pump

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7 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

Well, I ordered that transmission you recommended. I also shipped the crankshaft to MrCrankshaft and ordered a crankshaft balancer off of eBay. I am cleaning the case up and making sure I have the parts to get the engine back together. Should I replace any seals or o-rings while I am in here? Thanks.

yes !!!, always replace any and all oil seals when you tear an engine down, as jeep said ^^, this is the time to do it !.

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Awesome, thanks Shade. Is there a gasket kit that you would recommend for the top and bottom ends? I looked online and found a few different options but I am unsure of what exactly to look for. Thanks 

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20 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

Awesome, thanks Shade. Is there a gasket kit that you would recommend for the top and bottom ends? I looked online and found a few different options but I am unsure of what exactly to look for. Thanks 

i normally use namura for my gasket kits, but i just looked on ebay, not many there for your atv. you can go to rocky mountain atv, and buy them seperate, as well as the oil seals, this is what i would do, DO NOT BUY ANY CHINA CRAP !.

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31 minutes ago, Awrenchturner said:

Is it okay to reuse the locknuts on the clutches?

yes, i re-use those nuts all the time...no need in buying new, just impact them down with a good impact, re-stake them, problem solved.

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Hey Shade, nice to hear your voice again (if that makes sense). Do all the innards of the engine have to be washed? If so, what can I do without a parts washer?

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7 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

Hey Shade, nice to hear your voice again (if that makes sense). Do all the innards of the engine have to be washed? If so, what can I do without a parts washer?

well, you can old school, a bottle of super clean, garden hose, air compressor , then final spray down of wd-40. some brush rubbing maybe required here and there ?, but i used to do this alot way back b4 i bought a parts washer. if the engine has been sunk ?..YES !..the cases need to be torn all the ay down, and washed out !!.

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8 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

Hey Shade, nice to hear your voice again (if that makes sense). Do all the innards of the engine have to be washed? If so, what can I do without a parts washer?

I have heard stories of members that  get a case of aero-soil parts and brake cleaner 

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Starter fluid works great but it’s gotten a bit pricey.  $3/can and takes me 5-6 cans to clean out a bottom end.

 

Wife complains about the smell too🤡

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11 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Starter fluid works great but it’s gotten a bit pricey.  $3/can and takes me 5-6 cans to clean out a bottom end.

 

Wife complains about the smell too🤡

She most likely got a buzz after 5-6 cans , LOL 

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Hey jeep, Fishflies, nice to hear from you as well! I think I might go with a second hand 3.8 gallon parts washer. As for getting the crankshaft back in, in the manual it says to press it in. Are they any alternative ways to reseat the crankshaft without a press?

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My first one I used a BRASS mallet and drove the crankshaft in.  I wouldn't recommend it, but if you go that route definitely do not use anything hard.  A block of wood or a soft metal mallet.  Otherwise you will mushroom the end of the crank.

 

You need a press.  Go buy one.  Never miss an opportunity to buy a new tool because you "need" it.  LOL

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23 minutes ago, Awrenchturner said:

Hey jeep, Fishflies, nice to hear from you as well! I think I might go with a second hand 3.8 gallon parts washer. As for getting the crankshaft back in, in the manual it says to press it in. Are they any alternative ways to reseat the crankshaft without a press?

haha..you do not need a press to get the crank back into the case halves. a good hammer, good aim, and the crank will go right back into the case halves. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP THE TIMING MARKS ON THE IDLE GEAR AND CRANK GEAR AS YOU ARE HAMMERING THE CRANK BACK DOWN INTO THE CASE !. always have the right side case half laying down flat, facing up, work with the tranny and all down.

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Just now, jeepwm69 said:

My first one I used a BRASS mallet and drove the crankshaft in.  I wouldn't recommend it, but if you go that route definitely do not use anything hard.  A block of wood or a soft metal mallet.  Otherwise you will mushroom the end of the crank.

never..EVER beat on the end of the crank with a hammer !. i whack on the crank lobes when fitting the crank back in. the trick is to rotate the crank when doing it this way, keeps the bearing centered. if you must hit the end of the crank ?, yes, a block of wood must be used.

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So i have the engine out. I just put the case back together for a second time. The first time I tried rotating the shift drum and it wouldn’t turn at all. This time, I can rotate the shift drum but it does not click and spring back. I can turn it about 250 degrees freely but it pretty much stays wherever I place it. I am assembling the rear crankcase first. Is this right, wrong, or way out to lunch? Thanks 

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Maybe shims in the wrong place or in the wrong places on the shift shaft  --- Jeep just went thru something like that on his TX450FM 

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On 5/23/2022 at 2:23 PM, Awrenchturner said:

So i have the engine out. I just put the case back together for a second time. The first time I tried rotating the shift drum and it wouldn’t turn at all. This time, I can rotate the shift drum but it does not click and spring back. I can turn it about 250 degrees freely but it pretty much stays wherever I place it. I am assembling the rear crankcase first. Is this right, wrong, or way out to lunch? Thanks 

 

Try spinning the transmission shafts while trying to turn the shift drum.  It should drop into different gears as you turn it.  Spinning the transmission over while you're attempting to shift allows it to drop into different gears.

 

It shouldn't "click" or spring back until you get the shift linkage in place.

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Yup, seems to do as you said Jeep and thanks for the reply fishflies. So i have the case halves back together and the the rear components (chain, flywheel, etc.) in place. When I was putting the rear cover on I over tightened one of the cover bolts and stripped the threads inside the case. Last night I  used a Helicoil type thread repair kit and repaired the threads. This morning I am going to get the mating surfaces of the rear cover cleaned again and reinstall it. I have replaced the seals that jeep suggested and I am excited to get this thing back on the road. However, I am wise enough to know that this should not be rushed or I will be doing it again. I have also ordered top and bottom ball joints and tie rod ends for the front. I was just wondering if there are any tips for changing these with limited tools. Thanks (for not throwing too many wrenches at me) ;)

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2 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

Yup, seems to do as you said Jeep and thanks for the reply fishflies. So i have the case halves back together and the the rear components (chain, flywheel, etc.) in place. When I was putting the rear cover on I over tightened one of the cover bolts and stripped the threads inside the case. Last night I  used a Helicoil type thread repair kit and repaired the threads. This morning I am going to get the mating surfaces of the rear cover cleaned again and reinstall it. I have replaced the seals that jeep suggested and I am excited to get this thing back on the road. However, I am wise enough to know that this should not be rushed or I will be doing it again. I have also ordered top and bottom ball joints and tie rod ends for the front. I was just wondering if there are any tips for changing these with limited tools. Thanks (for not throwing too many wrenches at me) 😉

haha..well..yer deff in the right place to get wrenches tossed at ya !..rofl. we all live and learn bro..even me at doing this 30 yrs now. as for the ball joints ?, a shop press is the best tool you can ever have on hand !.

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19 hours ago, Awrenchturner said:

 I have also ordered top and bottom ball joints and tie rod ends for the front. I was just wondering if there are any tips for changing these with limited tools. 

I know it can be hard without tools , there are  many different ways to do ball joints , since you say limited tools are a problem , no sense in talking about anything but the basic ----  my grandfather use to always say , " it is hard to make chicken salad when all you got is chicken $hit ' ---- 

 

You can beat the ball joints out with  a drift / punch / or a  old socket  and knock then back in with a hammer , and a big socket or such that fits the metal rim of the ball joint  without hitting the rubber boot , best to have the arm or knuckle support against something solid when hitting on it , also really helps to buff the ball joint's  bore hole , so that the ball joint slides in smooth and not jam up and cause damage when hitting it down ,   a Dremel wheel on a drill is my  go to tool or if all you got is  emery/sand paper wrapped around a stick , it is worth the effort as it will make it easier and could save  damaging the new ball joint during installation  and lubricate / grease the hole --- personally I would not use any of the house brands / aftermarket brands  , like All  Balls , Moose , etc and try and buy OEM for as long as they are still possible 

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I put the knuckle/ a arm in my vice.

Remove circlip

Take a long 3/8” grade 8 bolt and use it to drive the old ball joint out.

Then I use a piece of pipe I found that perfectly fits the ball joint, and use that in my vice to press the new joint in.

Keep the ball joints in the freezer until immediate install, and buff the bores a little with a dremel, grinder, or fine sandpaper before putting them in (not much, just polish a little)

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Well the the bike is all back together and runs and shifts well. I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out on fixing my bike. You all have been so much help and I learn many skills from you all on the topic as well as others in the forums. shade, jeep, and Fish a special thanks for your quick and timely responses. However, I have a leak where the oil cooler hose attaches to engine. The o-ring that goes here measures 11x2.5, and I was wondering if I should use Honda brand or if any other brand that I can easily find would work better? I hope that this is all it needs.

 

Thanks

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