jeepwm69 7,605 Posted August 24, 2020 They gotta be super tight in the bore or you'll have wobble. I think @toodeep has used the aluminum from a beer can to shim a bearing tight in the bore. You might have undersized bearings, or you might have a worn out knuckle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said: They gotta be super tight in the bore or you'll have wobble. I think @toodeep has used the aluminum from a beer can to shim a bearing tight in the bore. You might have undersized bearings, or you might have a worn out knuckle. I am going to install new brakes this Friday probably and will look at it again then. I told Shade I think knuckle is shot as on left side the top of tire moves an inch in and out. Right side could be undersized bearings as it doesn’t move much. I don’t want to throw Honda bearings at left side as I’ll just buy a new knuckle assy if I have to replace. Will check popcan trick if I see it has a lot of slop in bearing thanks Edited August 24, 2020 by 87Iroc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,605 Posted August 24, 2020 If you haven't bought brakes yet, you can get 05-11 Foreman, 05-14 Rubicon, or 06-current Rincon knuckles, calipers, and hub/rotor assemblies and bolt them on at the ball joints. Will give you disc brakes using factory parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 24, 2020 23 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: If you haven't bought brakes yet, you can get 05-11 Foreman, 05-14 Rubicon, or 06-current Rincon knuckles, calipers, and hub/rotor assemblies and bolt them on at the ball joints. Will give you disc brakes using factory parts. Well, crap. I didn't know that. I have a Super ATV kit on the way. Be here tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 822 Posted August 24, 2020 Had the same thing happen on a foreman was working on last year ATV had been ridden too long with wobbling CV ends and bad bearings Ended up wallowing out the knuckle a bit, knocked out new bearings, got 2 new used knuckle off ebay for 40.00 put new bearings in and problem solved My friend used some loctite type bearing sealer that fills in bearing clearances up to a certain amount(cant remember) once on his beater wheeler that has more baling wire that OEM parts. It worked well and is still working but thats just helpful if your in a pinch or similar, not really the right way to do if you want it done right I think your knuckles are wallowed out and would look to replace them after making sure that bearings are ok 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) I pulled worst of 2 bearings back out. Cv shaft in place. It slid out easy with my fingernails. Measured compared to what i presume is A original Honda bearing I pulled out(no seals) and od is identical. presumption is spindle is shot. Will order one here at some point but issue for the winter. drinking can of diet mt dew now for intermediate fix hopefully. Lol Edited August 28, 2020 by 87Iroc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 Worked way better than it should have. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 Left side on. Hub with pop can feels rock solid now. Will see with tire. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheeler 2,525 Posted August 28, 2020 Those look sexy! I never knew of the pop can trick. If I ever get a “hair” of play they get replaced!! I’ve seen some guys drive er & be like ah it’s a Honda.. supposed have play! But they just beatin out the hub! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 3 hours ago, Wheeler said: Those look sexy! I never knew of the pop can trick. If I ever get a “hair” of play they get replaced!! I’ve seen some guys drive er & be like ah it’s a Honda.. supposed have play! But they just beatin out the hub! making up for years of abuse before I bought this one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 Grinding was a bit more excessive than directions let on. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oh400ex 629 Posted August 28, 2020 Great job on the pop can trick! I love fixes that for free you get a great result. Being diet you didn't even sugar spike yourself 😂 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 28, 2020 7 hours ago, 87Iroc said: I pulled worst of 2 bearings back out. Cv shaft in place. It slid out easy with my fingernails. Measured compared to what i presume is A original Honda bearing I pulled out(no seals) and od is identical. presumption is spindle is shot. Will order one here at some point but issue for the winter. drinking can of diet mt dew now for intermediate fix hopefully. Lol Aluminum can is going to smash real quick , should have used a steel Poke 'n' Bean can , LOL ------ if you want to fix it solid till your next bearing change when you get that new knuckle , or maybe never change the knuckle , get some Bearing Retainer , it is kind of like Lock-Tite , but is made to do just what you need , tighten up a loose bearing in the bore ---- when it comes time to change the bearing again it will be very hard to impossible to remove the bearing race without using heat from a torch , that stuff is awesome , have saved some high dollar housings with it before ------ would bet that seal ring groove you pic'ed was caused by that bearing floating around in the knuckle letting the cv-shaft spindle flex around 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,564 Posted August 28, 2020 that's going back to baling wire patch IMO..... as AKATV said ... might as well fix it right, and not have to worry about it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Fishfiles said: Aluminum can is going to smash real quick , should have used a steel Poke 'n' Bean can , LOL ------ if you want to fix it solid till your next bearing change when you get that new knuckle , or maybe never change the knuckle , get some Bearing Retainer , it is kind of like Lock-Tite , but is made to do just what you need , tighten up a loose bearing in the bore ---- when it comes time to change the bearing again it will be very hard to impossible to remove the bearing race without using heat from a torch , that stuff is awesome , have saved some high dollar housings with it before ------ would bet that seal ring groove you pic'ed was caused by that bearing floating around in the knuckle letting the cv-shaft spindle flex around Thought about it...but figured I'd try Alum can first as it was suggested above. Someone on my FB feed said I should have floated it in JB Weld. . If the alum smashes out, I'll likely replace the entire assy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 28, 2020 55 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said: that's going back to baling wire patch IMO..... as AKATV said ... might as well fix it right, and not have to worry about it... I looked at used hubs. Powersports Nation wants like 80 bucks for a used one. Ones on ebay are varying in cost but the cheap ones look no better than mine. Rocky MOuntain ATV has new hubs/bearings/seals(and I think a ball joint) for like 145. When a used hub is going for 75-90 and the honda bearings are 35 each plus seals....the 145ish for a new assy is looking pretty good for a way to go to fix it. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,564 Posted August 29, 2020 oh believe me i know the cost adds up.... patching is just something i can't wrap my head around ... lol! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) 12 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said: oh believe me i know the cost adds up.... patching is just something i can't wrap my head around ... lol! yep and the brakes were a stretch purchase. Should have just replaced wheel cylinders and called it good. 😞. Wife hasn’t said anything. Yet. Lol i did check the front tires after final assy. The hubs are rock solid for now. Edited August 29, 2020 by 87Iroc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 29, 2020 87 , I am so happy your brakes are working good , Shade would have run us into the ground so far , we would need a 6ft ladder ---- 87 , hey m shhhh , if you have any problem , don't post it up with letting me try to help you figure it out first , LOL 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 29, 2020 Did the manual that came with that new SuperATV mention which way the arch of the caliper cooling holes should arch , use to never know when the holes first appeared , my older kits don't have holes , gave myself a headache figuring which is right ---- I think you got it right in your pic , was that from knowledge or pot luck ??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Did the manual that came with that new SuperATV mention which way the arch of the caliper cooling holes should arch , use to never know when the holes first appeared , my older kits don't have holes , gave myself a headache figuring which is right ---- I think you got it right in your pic , was that from knowledge or pot luck ??? it’s how I’ve seen them on cars but I don’t think it matters. Didn’t read close enough to know if it told me but instructions were very good. just looked. Two pics. Both have different orientation. https://www.superatv.com/amfile/file/download/file/5091/product/5005/ Edited August 29, 2020 by 87Iroc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,564 Posted August 29, 2020 i would think this rotor should go on the right hand side ..kind of would make sence to me any water mud etc would slung outwards instead of being pulled inwards ... causing more pad replacement issues ... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted August 29, 2020 1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said: i would think this rotor should go on the right hand side ..kind of would make sence to me any water mud etc would slung outwards instead of being pulled inwards ... causing more pad replacement issues ... They’re reversible so I could put either side either way. I think the centrifugal force of tires spinning would fling it away. It’s just holes for bling. Not sure if it’s for water or not. Might be Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 789 Posted August 29, 2020 2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said: i would think this rotor should go on the right hand side ..kind of would make sence to me any water mud etc would slung outwards instead of being pulled inwards ... causing more pad replacement issues ... Yes I agree with you Wilson -- should be on the right side 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 29, 2020 2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said: i would think this rotor should go on the right hand side ..kind of would make sence to me any water mud etc would slung outwards instead of being pulled inwards ... causing more pad replacement issues ... This pic ^^^^ is the right way for the left side of the ATV , so this one pic'ed above would be wrong if put on the right side -- doubt it really matters ,this is not a Ducati stopping from 205mph Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
