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LEDs often have two wattage specs:

the output equivalent and the current draw. 
do your lamp packages or info state a current draw? 

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24 minutes ago, Goober said:

LEDs often have two wattage specs:

the output equivalent and the current draw. 
do your lamp packages or info state a current draw? 


I wish they did, but they el cheap ohs..

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Throw a second battery in the trunk if your worried about running out of juice in the woods ----  

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i'm only gonna say this, and leave the rest to you wheeler. no matter what the stator puts out ?, what extra battery you install ?, PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THE WIRING HARNESS MAY/CAN NOT HANDLE THE AMPERAGE !!, YOUR GOING TO BURN UP THE WIRE HARNESS IF YOU OVER LOAD IT !.

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and for the record ?, it does not matter if you are only going 100 feet ?, or 10 feet at night ?, it only takes a couple sec's to start a atv fire !..lol.

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I agree that I don't want to overload the harness for sure. Lots of atvs run light bars without issue. & I'll say it again... I won't be using this bar much at all, let alone the head lights. I rarely drive at nite. I may however get a smaller light bar that doesn't put out 270watts though to be a lil safer! I'll use connectors on those wires so it will be an easy unplug & plug new one in... I am going to head over to my camper, grab my multi-meter & test for amperage draw to determine what it "actually" will be too... then I will be able to determine the true wattage of this cheap no name light bar! I bet it won't be 270w.

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15 minutes ago, Wheeler said:

I agree that I don't want to overload the harness for sure. Lots of atvs run light bars without issue. & I'll say it again... I won't be using this bar much at all, let alone the head lights. I rarely drive at nite. I may however get a smaller light bar that doesn't put out 270watts though to be a lil safer! I'll use connectors on those wires so it will be an easy unplug & plug new one in... I am going to head over to my camper, grab my multi-meter & test for amperage draw to determine what it "actually" will be too... then I will be able to determine the true wattage of this cheap no name light bar! I bet it won't be 270w.

haha..not when they are made in china !..lol.

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I tested the flush mounts too. They gave me a .66 on the multi-meter.... 

 

 

 

I think the “270w” is intended to indicate equivalent brightness rather than current draw.

Edited by Wheeler

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I just went & fired the bike up, running at 1500rpm no lights on, 14.7v. Turn Pods on, no drop noticed. Turn all 3 on, 12.7v holding steady.. & that's at 1500rpm.. so running down the road at 4-7k rpm will produce more.. I think I'm good guys.. 

 

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All done & properly wired with a weather proof & dielectric greased relay. Works like a charm! I had a spare switch from my Heated hand grips that I used. 

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I know you say you usually ride alone , but wait till you ride with some one at night  and in back of them , they are going to get sunburned and beg you to turn them off , LOL  

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You are going to love making the switch to  LEDs ,  I couldn't go back to stock headlights ------  when you compare stock 300 bulbs to LED , there is no comparison 

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Came out really clean!

 

I was going to mention earlier to check the actual pull of the LED's. I'm glad you took the meter out.

This is the only reason decent drop-in LED's are brighter as they use less power to make the same amount of light (aka similar power draw and more light)

 

What is the total draw in watts of the bar and the pods together? (if you know)

 

Great job on the switch too! Whole thing came out really nice!

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Thx guys. Total was roughly 3.52amps. 
 

Im very pleased  with the outcome. I’ll bring my multi-meter & keep eye on battery ect while camping this week end. I’ll run er all & monitor voltage. 

Edited by Wheeler
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All I can say, is there is no more darkness!!

 

so lights off, pods on, then bar & pods...

 

 

 

 

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