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Reebs

Shaft Rear Propeller- 2014 Rancher 420

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I call that one a pipeline file, can't say fatherless dog in this forum....

Edited by TBRider
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On September 8, 2020 at 4:28 AM, TBRider said:

I call that one a pipeline file, can't say fatherless dog in this forum....

 

lol! yeah... i noticed it was blanked out ...

 

what work even better is corse steel wool ... i would think..... it would sure leave a smoother surface then just step down to the fine wool at the end ... then shoot it... the paint sure would be good.... it would show cracks (if any) starting again. 

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Hey Everyone,

 

I wanted to give an update to this post.  I was out for a ride last weekend and heard a noise that was all too familiar- metal on metal clanging and I new immediately what it was before I had gotten off the ATV.  The Splash Cover/Dust Cap had come free AGAIN.  I was honestly very surprised because as you can see from the photos last September, I had applied a lot of the JB Weld (and a little overkill from what you guys told me back then lol).  It had hardened so well back then it was like a fiberglass cast on a broken arm.  I thought I had finally solved the problem, but it only lasted 6 months and I didn't even ride all that much over the winter.  I can only assume it wasn't the right application or user error when I applied it maybe because there wasn't enough for the JB weld to "bite" onto.  You can see in the updated photo below the remaining JB Weld is only on the cover itself allowing it to slide backward and slide all over the shaft again.  So, now I am determined more than ever to win against this repeat issue.  I came up with a few ideas and was curious to what you guys think.  1) Put a zip tie right at the back of the cover (concern would be this would just slide off over time unless I can pull it really tight) Cheap and maybe a simple fix though and I could just keep a few with me when I ride for a quick repair on the trail.  2) Put a hose clamp right on the back edge and tighten it down really good.  3) Wrap it with some Nashua Stretch & Seal self-fusing silicone tape (or maybe some weatherproof foil tape for HVAC ducts??).  4) Try JB Weld again, but since I thought it would last years and it didn't even last 7 months, I am not confident.  Aside from several of you that will probably tell me to cut it off once and for all, I wondered what you thought of my other ideas?!  I am leaning toward the hose clamp because there is about the perfect amount of space for it to sit right behind the cover.  Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

IMG_1709.jpg

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Assuming I have your model right, not a bad price on Cheap Cycle. 2014 Honda TRX420FM1 2AC REAR FINAL GEAR | Cheap Cycle Parts

 

Looks like the cover is an interference fit on to the shaft. Probably heat it and shove it on to shrink fit. You'd think a spot weld would be better. Interesting that its part of the shaft assembly and can't be bought separately 

 

image.png

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Hi Reebs: You could try drilling & tapping the cap only and use a few small set screws to tighten it down.

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Thanks for the replies!  I thought welding it would be a solid idea, but that is a little outside of my wheelhouse 

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59 minutes ago, Reebs said:

Thanks for the replies!  I thought welding it would be a solid idea, but that is a little outside of my wheelhouse 

That can't be welded -- unless you  weld it to the shaft

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i would be carefull welding IF you choose to have it done, wouldn't want to get the shaft too hot with that seal not too far away,

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Can you take the shield back a bit and make it out of round then kinda press it on? Or pinch down the end that touches the shaft?

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I don't think I would weld it- just more than I would get into (for my skillset).  I think just adding a stainless steel hose clamp right behind it and cinching it real tight might do the trick, although TBRider suggestion is also a possibility (if I understand you right, back off the shield from its normal spot down to the thinner part of the shaft, crimp it down a bit and then wedge it back up to is normal position?).  I still even think a zip tie might work unless the shaft is so smooth that eventually it will slide back, but even if it holds for a period of time, it would be a cheap band-aid from time to time.  I will try a few of these ideas and see what happens.  Thanks!

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I think that shaft metal is pretty hard and would be tough to drill into for tapping. If you squeeze it, try doing with your hose clamp to compress all around.

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I think a new shaft  is around $40 + a little bit of work -----  if that ring walks up against the housing I would guess it could  cut a slot in it , it would be worth $40+  to fix it right ----- once I used MinuteMend , I don't mess with JBWeld any more , if you are going to try again with metal epoxy , try MinuteMend 

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you could try zip ties like maybe 4 + right beside each other, but would the shield still spin equally with the shaft or slip ? I've heard of the minute mend, good stuff from what ive heard, but never used myself. if you go the rout of drilling you can it easy to drill on the round shield by making a small indentation with a prick punch, that way the drill bit won't walk around. 

image.jpg

Edited by _Wilson_™
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Thanks again for the help.  The shield doesn't seem to ever walk too far forward.  If you pull it forward into its natural position, it seems to sit where it should until you take it for a ride.  There seems to be a natural lip that is sits on (this, in my opinion is where Honda has a faulty design- its too easy for the shield to not stay in place).  However, once you ride for a short distance the shield can "walk" backwards.  I personally wouldn't buy a new shaft (even though it is not too expensive).  The work to install a new one combined with the fact this seems to be a somewhat common occurrence with these, I would just think it would happen again.  Going to look at minute mend, the zip tie idea and hose clamp just to see what might work best.  If the zip tie or hose clamp are only band-aids, I am no worse off if they fail...but maybe they hold.  Thanks!

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your right, this is a common issue with this shield working loose, i can't even figure why they came out with setup, and no fix, for when it does come loose, other then to purchase a new shaft. 

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Totally agree.  You'd think Honda could address this rather easily.  I was actually just going to head outside and mess around with the ideas we've been talking about.  I will post back at some point so any others that come across this thread have some feedback on them.

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7 hours ago, Reebs said:

Totally agree.  You'd think Honda could address this rather easily. 

 

i agree, would have been simple for them to weld this shied in place, and there no reason for them not to, i just would like to know how many more here, have had this same issue, but with that being said, far as you know, you never struck a fixed object (rock, stump, etc) to knock that shield loose ? 

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Wilson, that’s a fair question on whether I ever hit a fixed object and I can honestly say I don’t think so.  The shield fits really well in its space and is very protected by the skid plate under the rear differential.  It’s protected nicely.  That, combined with the fact the shield itself shows no signs of any wear and tear and it is in perfect condition throughout (with the exception of some leftover JB Weld on it that I applied).  I am confident this is just poor design as it came off really early (within a few months) in my ownership of the machine which was purchased brand new.

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Just tack weld it --put the ground clamp on the shaft when welding it.

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Thanks Melatv.  I think tack welding it would be a great solution and probably do the trick.  Unfortunately, I don’t have a welder, but if I need to bring my ATV in for service in the future, that’s something I can ask them to do.

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if your talking about about taking it back the dealership where you purchased, i doubt they would weld it being you purchased this bike new from them, might get a machine shop to tach weld it for you, having it tached is a good ideal IMO. 

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image.png

 

If you do a hose clamp...one like this would be more likely to compress the metal. I'm not familiar with that piece. If its super thin a regular worm drive clamp might do it... That pic is from Jegs...not sure where'd I'd buy one locally. Maybe the local hydraulic hose store or grainger(not local anymore now that I think about it).

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Not that I think it would matter much on a atv drive shaft , but a hose clamp  is going to change the balance of the shaft and a  little wobble might make the seal go south faster than it normally would  ----- couple of saying come to mind " Mountain out of a mole hill " and  " Penny wise , dollar foolish " 

 

 
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That's the last thing I want (bigger problems).  However, my initial idea is not necessarily to clamp any part of the shield itself.  The shield, when properly positioned as in the photo below, leaves the exact space shown in the photo (shiny steel area) and you can see the "old" JB Weld on the back "lip" of the shield.  Where you see the JB weld, that is on 100% of the shield lip and none remains on the shaft itself).  I can simply take my hand and pull the shield off that spot- there is nothing keeping the shield in place right now.  So once you start riding, within seconds to maybe as long as a minute that shield rotates backwards and once it slides down on the narrower part of the shaft it just starts clanging and bouncing around (just wanted to paint a clear picture of what happens).  All I need to do is keep it from being able to move off its intended spot in the photo.  Since the shield rotates with the shaft, my idea was to simply put the hose clamp in what seems like the perfect space to allow for one, and butt it right against the shield lip and tighten it down.  There would be no way for the shield to walk backwards with the clamp at its back edge.  So the clamp would sit in the space where the blue arrow is in the photo.  All I want to do is block the shield from moving (this is also why I suggested zip ties or even a thin wrapping of waterproof silicone tape in the same spot as ideas.  The clamp only weighs 3/4oz and will weigh even less once I tighten it down, because I will cut off the excess tab once its tight.  The shield doesn't need much force to be kept in its natural spot (again, mind boggling why Honda couldn't have solved this issue).  To me, putting a clamp where the blue arrow is will allow the clamp to bite down perfectly smooth creating a tighter seal than if I grab part of the shields back edge.  Make sense?  Does this change your thoughts on the "balance" concern?  A zip tie would be even lighter but I am not sure I can pull it tight enough to last (not eventually move) on the smooth metal shaft whereas I could get a hose clamp tighter and likely never move off the spot keeping the shield where it is supposed to be.  Even the waterproof silicone tape that sticks to itself by wrapping could work...Thanks for all the help- I hope I clarified my ideas!

Proposed spot for Clamp.jpg

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