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oh400ex

Fix and Flip | 2008 450ER

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Frustrating day with this thing...

 

Started and ran perfect but left it sit for an hour or two while I was waiting on air filter oil to dry. 

When I came back it wouldn't run without choke so I pulled the carb apart and shot some air though the pilot jet but it's not running right.

Going to fully disassemble and ultrasonic the carb but have a few appointments so will likely be a few days.

 

Anyone know what the symptoms of the one-way clutch bearing going out on this will look/sound like?

 

I think I've talked everyone out of wanting it for themselves so it's officially up for sale or trade.

Edited by oh400ex

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It would sound like its turning over then you would just hear the starter free spinning. Then again kinda a chug chug, chug chug, zing.

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5 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

It would sound like its turning over then you would just hear the starter free spinning. Then again kinda a chug chug, chug chug, zing.

 

I don't have that. We'll have to see how the carb goes and I'll know more.

 

If someone from the forum happens to want this thing... I will give you a great price (still need to make some money on it though)

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Done with heart surgery.

 

Ultrasonic with de-greaser for a few hours and a flush run with clean water. Only bottom half of carb body would fit in basket.

Sprayed all parts with carb cleaner/WD-40 and air compressor to displace water.

Going back in tomorrow to see how it runs.

20200922_201310.jpg

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6 hours ago, oh400ex said:

Done with heart surgery.

 

Ultrasonic with de-greaser for a few hours and a flush run with clean water. Only bottom half of carb body would fit in basket.

Sprayed all parts with carb cleaner/WD-40 and air compressor to displace water.

Going back in tomorrow to see how it runs.

20200922_201310.jpg

Just a heads up bud. If you sprayed carb cleaner down the bore at the flat slide at all you ruined a seal. Its called the vacuum release seal. It sits behind a flat plate on the front of the slide. If you hurt it like im 90% sure you did, as they are one of the most sensitive seals i have ever encountered, the throttle will be hard to push and will hang up on you.

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Here is what it looks like. No way of knowing the damage by looking at it. Gotta install the carb and hope for the best.

Screenshot_20200923-034938_eBay.jpg

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4 hours ago, SlammedRanger said:

Just a heads up bud. If you sprayed carb cleaner down the bore at the flat slide at all you ruined a seal. Its called the vacuum release seal. It sits behind a flat plate on the front of the slide. If you hurt it like im 90% sure you did, as they are one of the most sensitive seals i have ever encountered, the throttle will be hard to push and will hang up on you.

 

I was very light with any cleaners and used air to remove some residue ASAP after so hopefully I got away with it.

 

Slide feels great and does not hang yet but we will see... if I get away without a rebuild kit Ill be a bit surprised.

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Failure to fly...

 

Starts and revs in neutral alright but backfires a lot and will die under any load.

Didn't order any other parts for it yet so will likely be a bit before another update.

 

Looking at ordering a carburetor rebuild kit and starting there but i'm getting some weird noises from the starting system.

It is like the pitch of the starter whine changes and then goes back to normal. Not sure what it is but would lean to the one-way bearing from what I've read.

 

Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

 

 

 

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Back at it again...

 

Adjusted the air/fuel screw out to 2 and a half turns out which fixed some of the running issues. In neutral it sounds great but as soon as dropped in gear it dies. 

 

Bike only starts in neutral as well. How is the clutch bypass done on this bike?

 

Aftermarket CDI possibly causing problems but I don't have an OEM to try.

 

@SlammedRanger

 

Any ideas?

What all you got left besides the gusseted frame?

Spark plug boot? CDI?

 

Edit: CDI is Rick's Electric and was supposed to be good but it's gone if I can find OEM...

Edited by oh400ex

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Sorry bud sold eveeything else. I had an experiance with a ricks cdi. Wasnt a good experiance. Quad would cut out and pop and bang real bad. I rode the quad with a long spark tester on it and could watch it cut spark when getting on it. I know alot of people have had good experiances with them. I will say they swapped me another real easy. I talked to the owner and he said it has to be on my end if 2 of his do the samething. I said its weird it runs flawless on the oem one. I took video of the whole thing and sent it to him. He refunded me the full price i paid. Said there was nothing he could do. Something to do with the mods i have not working with the box? Couldnt make sense of that but was satisfied atleast in the end.

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3 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

Sorry bud sold eveeything else. I had an experiance with a ricks cdi. Wasnt a good experiance. Quad would cut out and pop and bang real bad. I rode the quad with a long spark tester on it and could watch it cut spark when getting on it. I know alot of people have had good experiances with them. I will say they swapped me another real easy. I talked to the owner and he said it has to be on my end if 2 of his do the samething. I said its weird it runs flawless on the oem one. I took video of the whole thing and sent it to him. He refunded me the full price i paid. Said there was nothing he could do. Something to do with the mods i have not working with the box? Couldnt make sense of that but was satisfied atleast in the end.

 

Got any ideas on the dying when put in gear part?

 

I'm leaning on that one-way bearing and wear in the clutch from what I read but have little personal experience with this bike.

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Clutch bypass should be 2 wire switch at clutch assembly. All it does is if you cut them and leave them seperate it wont start unless in neutral. If you cut them and wire nut them togeather it will start in any gear. I had mine the first way until i looped the first corner at the fair race and stalled it. (Which i never do). By the time i got it to neutral and started i was almost going a lap down. Sucked bad. So i switched it so i can fire it up in any gear. Just dont let any kids sit on my quad anymore and always have the key out for safety.

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Just now, SlammedRanger said:

Clutch bypass should be 2 wire switch at clutch assembly. All it does is if you cut them and leave them seperate it wont start unless in neutral. If you cut them and wire nut them togeather it will start in any gear. I had mine the first way until i looped the first corner at the fair race and stalled it. (Which i never do). By the time i got it to neutral and started i was almost going a lap down. Sucked bad. So i switched it so i can fire it up in any gear. Just dont let any kids sit on my quad anymore and always have the key out for safety.

 

They are already wired together so i'm gonna have to look into that. Maybe not making good connection...

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Just now, oh400ex said:

 

They are already wired together so i'm gonna have to look into that. Maybe not making good connection...

Could also be backwards on the 450r? Im speaking from 400ex experiance. 

 

The stalling when put in gear is odd. I would put a spark tester on it to see if its killing spark or what is happening? If its killing spark you have either a wiring issue, or cdi? Something is killing spark. If it lurches forward or seems to drag the engine down and stall it could be a clutch issue. The one way clutch could be dragging when it should be dissengaged and cause similar.

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2 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

Dang bro. Dropping money! Keep us posted.

 

Will do!

Don't really have it to spend but I will get it back and someone will have a good machine at the end of the day.

That's the most important bit but I really like putting it back right when I can.

 

Just the boot was going to cost me ~$50 and I got the OEM coil along with it for $55.

The OEM CDI (IMO) is needed to keep the reliability up which is my main concern. My wife may still keep it.

 

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Any experience with this product or company?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Reinforced-Starter-Clutch-kits-for-Honda-TRX-450R-450ER-TRX450ER-2006-2014/231174959324

 

Includes starter clutch one-way bearing and gear.

 

From what I read this is super common on this bike but I have never been into the engine on one of these personally.

Not sure whether it is the one-way, clutches or both at the moment...

 

I'm pretty sure that my electrical problems will be done after replacing the aftermarket CDI and coil with known good OEM parts.

I'll try both CDI at some point and get a for sure on which runs better.

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7 minutes ago, oh400ex said:

Any experience with this product or company?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Reinforced-Starter-Clutch-kits-for-Honda-TRX-450R-450ER-TRX450ER-2006-2014/231174959324

 

Includes starter clutch one-way bearing and gear.

 

From what I read this is super common on this bike but I have never been into the engine on one of these personally.

Not sure whether it is the one-way, clutches or both at the moment...

 

I'm pretty sure that my electrical problems will be done after replacing the aftermarket CDI and coil with known good OEM parts.

I'll try both CDI at some point and get a for sure on which runs better.

I have not. Its unbranded so more than likely its a china knock-off. But you do want to change the starter gear with the clutch. The gear boss where the clutch rides is what wears and the clutch cant grab anymore. I have personally replaced a clutch and no gear and had it not be any different. Live and learn lol

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6 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

I have not. Its unbranded so more than likely its a china knock-off. But you do want to change the starter gear with the clutch. The gear boss where the clutch rides is what wears and the clutch cant grab anymore. I have personally replaced a clutch and no gear and had it not be any different. Live and learn lol

 

Lots of sold (+2000) and no bad reviews mentioning junky parts so I think I'll give them a shot.

They claim to be the maker of the part and have many other things related to starter clutches so it's at least possible.

 

Being that it is the contact surface it seems likely to be damaged. Will be doing a clutch pack at the same time.

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Some more questions for ya @SlammedRanger 😅

 

Water pump seal? Should I service the pump in some way while I'm in there?

 

Carburetor rebuild kit? Does it come with the throttle valve seal or separate? 

Do I need it? I'm wondering what symptoms to be looking for on the seal being damaged

 

Sorry to keep bothering you on this one but a trusted experience carries weight with me and it is greatly appreciated!

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4 hours ago, oh400ex said:

Some more questions for ya @SlammedRanger 😅

 

Water pump seal? Should I service the pump in some way while I'm in there?

 

Carburetor rebuild kit? Does it come with the throttle valve seal or separate? 

Do I need it? I'm wondering what symptoms to be looking for on the seal being damaged

 

Sorry to keep bothering you on this one but a trusted experience carries weight with me and it is greatly appreciated!

No problem at all. Im always glad to help. From the top. Water pump seal is cheap insurance and i would do it for sure. 450r's run hot as is and you have a water pump fail its gunna burn up quick. 

 

Second i havent seen any rebuild kits come with that specific seal. I would think if you got an extensive full overhaul kit maybe? These fcr's break down in like 1000 pieces. The body is 3 parts in itself. The symptom i had (since i got mine off ebay and the guy cleaned it before selling it) was the throttle would hang under light throttle openings. It would snap back if i pegged it. It was also hard to push. The whole reason this seal exists is to release the vacuum on the slide valve. Flat slides are notorious for hanging up by design having a flat plate to pull on. So this plate has a hole in it and a seal on the back that allows the pressure to release and throttle valve to move freely.

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OEM CDI fixed it.

All running issues are gone.

Starts and runs perfect. Engine power is wow... the revs on this thing!

 

Still going to do the clutch, starting system and water pump seal service even though I could sell it now. 
Reliability is very important to me and if possible I won't let it go until it can be relied on

 

Rick's Electric CDI is absolute expletive garbage. I will never buy a product with that name on it.


If you have an aftermarket CDI throw it in the trash where it belongs and go back to OEM

 

Thank you for reading!

 

 

20201001_125201.jpg

Edited by oh400ex

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14 minutes ago, oh400ex said:

OEM CDI fixed it.

All running issues are gone.

Starts and runs perfect. Engine power is wow... the revs on this thing!

 

Still going to do the clutch, starting system and water pump seal service even though I could sell it now. 
Reliability is very important to me and if possible I won't let it go until it can be relied on

 

Rick's Electric CDI is absolute expletive garbage. I will never buy a product with that name on it.


If you have an aftermarket CDI throw it in the trash where it belongs and go back to OEM

 

Thank you for reading!

 

 

20201001_125201.jpg

i have argued time and time again..ricks c.d.i.'s are junk !..and yet..no one believes me ?!!...lol.

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