Let's talk farm equipment

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

there should be a place (window) on the bell housing, lets go back a bit, and start over, is there any fire from the plugs ? right now I'm thinking electrical issue. if nothing about the timing has been changed, then the timing should be spec on, these old tractors were not known for giving much trouble. (no electronic junk very simple design) i see this one has been changed to 12 volt charging.... but still, just not enough detail yet, Ted, points would another thought. 1st need to find out if it has a spark, then will kick off with a short burst of starting fluid to the breather stack intake. check if the intake stack oil or bath filtering is blocked up by mud dobbers old wasp nest birds nest, etc. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

this is where you adjust the timing on the front mount distributer (pic) but after going over all the information PM , and posted .... plus the looks of this screw and slide haven't been touched in a while, I'm falling back just a tad more to the governer , or governor rods being bent, (but i still would do all those the is above. checks 1st) you had mentioned it runs at around two grand with little change, when you work the throttle ... being it looks as tho it's been sitting a while.

[LedFTed 1,127]

There is nothing on the bell housing. i wouldnt have this port into the distributor, if ya hadnt peaked my curiosity. i just thought the tractor was old, an had no choice of adjustment, except for the linkage, and the spring. one of the linkages goes to the carb., an had a screw to adjust the throttle i believe.

so, know i know what i'm looking for..

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

glad to help. my friends is a later model side mount distributor, not a front mount like yours so had to get holt of a tractor guy who deals in very old models, and he told me where the timing adjustment is, but also said ... if yours ran before.... with a description of the steady rpm whether  what direction the throttle lever was in sounded to him like a governor along with a carb issue, he recommended cleaning and rebuilding the carb, and checking the governor status. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

On 1/13/2021 at 7:07 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

glad to help. my friends is a later model side mount distributor, not a front mount like yours so had to get holt of a tractor guy who deals in very old models, and he told me where the timing adjustment is, but also said ... if yours ran before.... with a description of the steady rpm whether  what direction the throttle lever was in sounded to him like a governor along with a carb issue, he recommended cleaning and rebuilding the carb, and checking the governor status. 

did the carb, so its governor, linkage, an a adjustment on the carb, part of the linkage. an a idle screw, the linkage is attached too. an that in the last picture. i'm not gonna mess with the timing, till i get the other things straitened out.

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

sounds like your getting close to straightening her out, thanks for the update, after to get the governer and linkage straightened out, you might not even have to mess with the timing. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

23 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

sounds like your getting close to straightening her out, thanks for the update, after to get the governer and linkage straightened out, you might not even have to mess with the timing. 

Yep, thats what i was thinking.

[TBRider 1,406]

From old to new... we have a different style of grader over at the d.o.t, going to have to wait till spring to get a pic....but ours doesn't have a motor.

[JoeR 14]

This is my 1929 Rumely Do-All tractor.  It looks rough but has had a complete mechanical restoration done on it.  It took about 15 years to gather the necessary parts to do it.  Most of the internal engine stuff had to be made, along with the gearing to run the rear wheels.  I decided to keep the original sheet metal, even though it's a mess.  They're only original once.  I've added wheel extensions and cleats since I took this pic.  Last thing to do is add the rear fenders, but I'm having trouble getting started on it.  I think they look way better without them.  LOL.  

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

welcome to the forums! 

 

oh now that's nice, they sure dont build them to last now, like they did back then.

[JoeR 14]

3 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

welcome to the forums! 

 

oh now that's nice, they sure dont build them to last now, like they did back then.

 

Thanks for the welcome!

I agree that tractor quality probably peaked in the 60s and 70s.  There's plenty of good ones in the previous and later decades, but I think that's when the best ones were made.  After that they started to cheapen up a little bit  as manufacturers got more competitive and chased profits in exchange for quality.  The latest ones suffer with unreliable electronics and bad exhaust aftertreatment systems.  Earlier than that and they were still getting stuff sorted out.  Poor metallurgy and fluid leaks were really common.   My Do-All uses 140W oil in those side gear cases.  There's only a felt seal between the wheel hub and the case.  The owner's manual says it's normal to leak a half gallon of oil out of each gear case per day!  There's also no crank seals, so the oil just drips out the ends when you run it.  Kinda funny.  

Joe

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

big and little brother. don't think I've ever seen one this small with a turbo, not a international, anyways. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

46 ford made it through the cold spell. so did the battery. i should have had the battery on a trickle charger., anyway i turned the key, pushed the button, an it fired up. got a slight miss, i think its the plugs i bought, and not for this tractor perhaps. i dont know. champion in a ford tractor. shoulda been motorcraft. the three point hitch never made it to the ground, it got close,4-6", i figure thats good. i could use a shorter seat to the pedals., the older ya get, the shorter ya get. Just a given,. i only lost an inch or so. Howard, he used to trim my horses, he lost 6", in hight.

Just shows ya, to get the milk with the red tops instead of the blue.

Howard never told me if he even drinks milk, so, i'm yanking your chain. i will tell ya this though, i dont like the 2%., either whole milk or none., gimme the milk with the red top, or none at all.

Real milk.

Edited February 27, 2021 by LedFTed

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

correct motorcraft plugs, could be a plug wire, ( with a partial miss) all of them might need replacing, can you post pics of the plugs ? not sure if this model has a draft control, but if it does, you should be able to change how high, and low the 3 point hitch goes. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

well,, i adjusted the carb. ya'ld think if someone put new gaskets in,stuff,,  they would at least adjust the carb. not so... 64, is running at least a little bit better., if not so...i guess it depends on who does the work. i dont think the tractor will go any faster, least it runs better., as far as letting out on the clutch. i managed to slow the idle down, so it dont near jerk me out of the seat. old school adjustments.., an the tractor keeps running...

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

my buddy sold his, so no help there, still sounds like the governor rod linkage on yours could be binding up, remind me (I've been away) but that rod was bent to help correct the idol issue ? 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

@jeepwm69 this would be the check stick, from the seat right floor board back left corner where the floor board ends, ours screw in, this one looks to be aftermarket, but that's the oil check hole, from the description in your other post yes, low of oil, or the sump screen needs cleaning, plus a new filter, or all, three, i would not chance the clutch slipping, because it's a major repair, but it is a wet clutch, if you could post me some pics of the underside of the transmission both sides, just below the floor boards, i can tell you where the filter housing is, plus the sump pre screen. note , i would do that sump screen, just after draining the oil, you will loose a tad (best i recall) but if the filter is like ours, you will just loose whats in the filter housing, and just like honda oil checks, if the dip stick screw in, don't screw it in when checking the oil, stick it in, check, then you know the rest, add if needed, if not screw the stick in, and she's good to go, also do this on level ground. 

[jeepwm69 7,600]

Thanks man.  I'll give her a look see in the next few days.

 

Did some bush hogging this morning.  Have more to do but will probably be the weekend before I have time to do it.

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

I'll be around, before you go, have any idea how many hours she has clocked, there's another thing i was just thinking of. the hydraulic couple from the front of the engine to the pump, there are nylon, or rubber bushings, that age and deteriorate over time, when they go, the couple is metal to metal, it will work, but sounds like a slight jack hammer, now those are a bugger to replace! this (pic) is the coupler, see if this has any movement clock wise or counter, or back and forth. 

[jeepwm69 7,600]

No idea on the hours.  The meter was busted when I got the tractor.

 

I'll have to look around and see what I can find.  It runs fine, doesn't use any oil, but I've had the fuel tank spring a leak, and the radiator as well.  Both were fixed by a local guy who does tractor repair on the side (and who was borrowing the tractor at the time, so he fixed both and didn't charge me).

 

I'd really like to take the nose cone off and look over both the radiator and the fuel tank.  That thing just held on by bolts and nuts, or is there a trick to removing it?   Fuel gauge doesn't work anymore so I have to use a long dowel to check the fuel level LOL

 

Interestingly enough, the thing uses the same alternator as my Jeeps, so I was able to use one of my spares when the alt went out a couple of years ago.

 

Fuel pump is dripping a bit, so probably need to replace that at some point before long.

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

okay understood, ours is the same, no hour meter/tach dead fuel gauge lol! should have side screens in the front where the air is pulled in for cooling the radiator, hydro oil cooler they should be held on by a long spring at the top, and set on two dowl pins on the corner (back and front ) just grab the top of the screen, and see if it will pull out at the top, just be carefull of those springs, oh yeah ac delco alternator, that what all of hours have, i think it was standard on johndeere tractors for a few years ? and yours is a two 12 volt batteries and not twin six volt batteries ? 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

look under the bottom of the fuel pump, should be a weep hole, see if the fuel is coming from there, if the diaphram pops it can flood the crankcase with fuel (dilute the engine oil) 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

I'd really like to take the nose cone off and look over both the radiator and the fuel tank.  That thing just held on by bolts and nuts, or is there a trick to removing it? 

 

the fuel tank, or radiator ? gosh jeep it's been years sence i had ours off, the tank (i think) just sits on pads, and the hood presses down on it, and the top also has pads, now the radiator, bottom left and right side should be bolts with springs, and a braise rod at the top, you be able to see the rod, by just looking under the edge of the hood, but to inspect it all the way, pull the side screens, take the fuel cap off, radiator cap, if it has a a intake stack, take the weather shield /pre cleaner off, and lift the hood off, you'll most like need help taking the hood off, it's not heavy, just long, but there really is no reason, to do this, just the radiator that might need blowing out every now and again, simple with a air compressor and blow gun, with a short right angle tip, just go in behind the fan, and work your way around, you'll have to rotate the fan, to blow areas the blades block, if the drive belt isn't that tight, just grab a fan blade and rotate it just a tad, you can also blow in from the sides, but what i did , was take a storm door mesh/screen and place it In front anything small enough to pass though it goes right through the radiator fins. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

On 6/24/2021 at 11:53 AM, _Wilson_™ said:

my buddy sold his, so no help there, still sounds like the governor rod linkage on yours could be binding up, remind me (I've been away) but that rod was bent to help correct the idol issue ? 

i think it was. the intake exhaust manifold, if one piece. 4 exhaust ports an two intake ports. it was pitted to the point that in didnt put enough pressure on the gaskets. anyway, i took it to a local shop,  it was 60 dollars the get it shaved. its been awhile. is that a fair price. i knew is was going to be over 20. a lot of time has passed.

Edited July 6, 2021 by LedFTed

[jeepwm69 7,600]

2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

okay understood, ours is the same, no hour meter/tach dead fuel gauge lol! should have side screens in the front where the air is pulled in for cooling the radiator, hydro oil cooler they should be held on by a long spring at the top, and set on two dowl pins on the corner (back and front ) just grab the top of the screen, and see if it will pull out at the top, just be carefull of those springs, oh yeah ac delco alternator, that what all of hours have, i think it was standard on johndeere tractors for a few years ? and yours is a two 12 volt batteries and not twin six volt batteries ? 

 

Yep those screens are a pain with those big screens.

 

single 12v battery