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Fishfiles

Motorcycles and Gas Powered Bicycles

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nice work. now you'll be good if the chain ever does start to loosen up. Wish i had chain tools like this when i was a kid on my ATC90. Seemed like we could never get the chain short enough to be just right. By the end I'd be throwing the chain back on the rear sprocket about ever other lap around the woods. Bearings and axle and the works was just wore out but being 12-14 years old I was none the wiser to check those things and just blamed the chain.

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Chain is not going to be slapping no more

 

Next up chain guard modifications ,  things are pretty tight , going to be all cut up before it is over ,my sheet metal buddy Mo /Can Am 570 is all into this bike and wants to build him a old school that he has called the General , he told me anything you need for the bike let me know and I will build it , a custom aluminum chain guard might be in the workings 

 

Oh , I did learn a term today , on this E-Zip frame , the frame cut for rear hub shaft  is considered " vertical drop " hub  , no adjustment of the rear tire 

 

Last pic is the General , not my taste , LOL 

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never have seen one of the chain link pullers, i always had needle nose vise grips i filed the inside of the jaws to fit, but not always handy.. lol! looks like you've skinned that cat ... with a brand new chain, it shouldn't take long for some slack to start happening. 

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I have used some big chain stretchers and had to use more than one at a time , on cranes , there are 4 and 5 row drive chains , we use to have to put 4 tools on one chain and pull   

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I just looked for some video on You-Tube of installing a chain in the draw works of a friction crane and I couldn't find any thing close , must be a thing of the past  and they never had phone cams back then , lol 

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biggest I've messed with is morse number 90 stainless, for a grain elevator ... what you've delt with sounds like a finger mashing job .. the standard for most of of our machines were about 40-60 ... some much smaller ... i have a box of half link, and masters some place over at the shop, they might have come from shoup farm supply ? bet they would even have a half link in the size you need if you ever do. 

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51 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

biggest I've messed with is morse number 90 stainless, for a grain elevator ... what you've delt with sounds like a finger mashing job .. the standard for most of of our machines were about 40-60 ... some much smaller ... i have a box of half link, and masters some place over at the shop, they might have come from shoup farm supply ? bet they would even have a half link in the size you need if you ever do. 

 

 

I ordered a 3 pack of 1/2 links this evening , to have on hand , if I come to find the chain is a little too tight , which it might be and eat away at the sprockets , LOL , a 3 pack with shipping was $8.95 ------  415 chain is a 3/16 inch pin  x 1/2 inch pin spacing ---- thinking of ordering a heavier duty idler wheel , cause I bet this one gets ate up quick , comes from Winng Wangg 

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Made a few cuts on the chain guard , a little trimming and it will work well, I think , there is a bolt on the back side of the engine so the front is done , on the rear there is a tie strap clamp welded to the frame which should work there 

 

I homemade a CDI mount and it was phony , had the aluminum ring motor mount that wasn't going to work out on this bike , so used it , there is a big gap at the moment as the tube of the bike  is 1.75 inch and the bore hole of the mount is 1.50 inch  , so some grinding should make that fit nice 

 

 

 It clouded up and started raining , guess the storm is coming !!! 

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Oh , you can see in that pic , moving the rear motor mount made the head hit harder  and sooner or later I need to cut that head , been thinking about how I am going to cleanly pull that off   

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I put some time on this project today , Shade and I talked about that chain for 30+ minutes early this morning , while I drove from a bike shop to home , that guy lied to me about having 415 1/2 links in stock , all fairness to the guy , he did come up with a new chain and master links and could order me one in two days 

 

While I was at that bike shop , he had some of them high dollar pedal bikes , some cost $2K , $5K , and up , I don't get it , LOL 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Oh , you can see in that pic , moving the rear motor mount made the head hit harder  and sooner or later I need to cut that head , been thinking about how I am going to cleanly pull that off   

 

have you figured on just milling down the center fins on that head at the point of where they contact the bar ? , or you could you swap to that other head ? 

 

looks great so far. 

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11 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

have you figured on just milling down the center fins on that head at the point of where they contact the bar ? , or you could you swap to that other head ? 

 

looks great so far. 

 

Thanks .... really want that head to stay on there  , I bet I could just take a saws-all and cut the head , while the engine is still together and still  in the frame -----   notice with cuts like that , once you commit to  pull the trigger , never let off till it is cut thru , cause when you start and stop is  when things go wrong , blade jumps and causes scares --- think the best thing would be take the engine out the fame and take the head off and cut it will a hand held band saw , while clamped down in a vise , then a flapper wheel on a grinder , then a DA  sander 

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your welcome, are you thinking just milling ... where the head  has space for that tube, or, milling down the back side of the head all the across ? 

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Thanks Shade' >>>  I got to give credit to Shade as he was the one that told me to move the engine back to gain some chain slack 

 

I didn't do anything to the bike today , storm prep and the dentist took up my day 

 

 

 

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I got a 1/2 link in the mail  , installed it ,  I was afraid of the chain been a little tight , it has a aluminum sprocket , don't want it to get ate up quick >>>>>  with the 1/2 link , the chain was a little loose , not as bad as before cutting the motor mount , but too loose  for me -------  not all wasted time  during that process , after installing the 1/2 link , I re-drilled a hole in the adjuster arm so I could move the roller to the end hole as it was hitting the tire before and moved one hole to the engine , don't hit the tire no more   , so it was a lot of time trying that 1/2 link , but happy with the results of the adjuster arm ---- if I really wanted to , I could push this project and ride it this weekend , want it as best as I can get it  --- no pics at the moment 

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What if one of your motor mounts is spring based?

 

With the intention of tensioning the chain by the position of the motor in frame... what made me think of it was talking about giving more slack by moving the engine back.

Maybe some muffler springs to keep tension? Pulling the head closer to the frame? Is there even a pivot point to use in that way? 

 

Just a thought... not claiming it's a good one 😂

 

I think you will end up with new chain and sprockets if you keep it for any amount of time. Mine were off a small dirt bike I believe.

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A pivoting motor mount is an idea , maybe for a future build if the rear axle is another vertical drop with no chain adjustment , but instead of springs use a  adjust bolt 

 

Future build ; maybe something like this one with a 4 stroker engine 

 

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4 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

A pivoting motor mount is an idea , maybe for a future build if the rear axle is another vertical drop with no chain adjustment , but instead of springs use a  adjust bolt 

 

better idea IMO. ^^^

 

i was thinking with spring type engine mounts the engine would shift from toque and allow the chain to not run true, which could could shorten the life of the aluminum sprocket. 

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Fish yo have inspired me to dig this one out of the barn. Hopefully I’ll get it going soon. It hasn’t run since the mid90s when the inside of tank got rusty and regularly clogged up the carb. At least for now I’m going to try a small external tank. It was manufactured Dec. 1976. 

 

Pics before and after washing some of the dirt off. 

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slowindown , glad I got you kick started , that  looks like a good project ---- looks Italian ???  

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It’s a Columbia, which is or was actually an American bicycle company, one of the oldest US bicycle companies. The engine is sachs, German. They’re essentially copies of slightly older discontinued  Sach’s mopeds. I think Columbia in turn sold the design to yet another company, which continued to make them through late 80s or early 90s. 

 

Before the gas tank issue, it was really easy to start - just pedal and pull a little lever. It would run about 30mph. 

Edited by slowindown
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On 10/27/2020 at 5:58 PM, Fishfiles said:

Made a few cuts on the chain guard , a little trimming and it will work well, I think , there is a bolt on the back side of the engine so the front is done , on the rear there is a tie strap clamp welded to the frame which should work there 

 

I homemade a CDI mount and it was phony , had the aluminum ring motor mount that wasn't going to work out on this bike , so used it , there is a big gap at the moment as the tube of the bike  is 1.75 inch and the bore hole of the mount is 1.50 inch  , so some grinding should make that fit nice 

 

 

 It clouded up and started raining , guess the storm is coming !!! 

GP2wjHtxTxSdpb2THCUnmA.jpg

%9RelJgoQF+hzZ%gdmCwiQ.jpg

IMG_2310.JPG

so that i might learn, never to old, i am. How come ya cant tilt the motor 3 degree's, or so?

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