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Fishfiles

Motorcycles and Gas Powered Bicycles

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Thinking about a nitrous bottle and a super charger next  ----  just kidding !!! 

 

Going to try and relocate the carb closer to the engine ... 

 

 

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On 11/22/2020 at 5:40 AM, _Wilson_™ said:

 

once the cooling process starts again, the foam insulate will just aid in keeping it even colder, have to have a heat source for mechanics   of that to work, and here there isn't one. 

insulation works both ways. heat or cold. whether you keep heat in, or keeping the cold in as cooling ducts. like your house, you want to keep the heat in during the winter, during the summer, ya want to keep the cold inside your duct work. engine heat will keep the pipe warm, to the carb. though, closer to the engine the carb might be warmer, unless the carb was insulated. is your atv carb insulated?, for the heat necessary to let it work. i think if the pipe is kept warm from the engine, the carb wont be much of a problem. as a matter of fact, some metals retain heat better. iron stays hot for a long time, aluminum transfers heat across itself faster than most metal.

iron retains heat longer. though slower to heat up, it is more consistent.

were the older furnaces warmer? ell yes. this newer stuff is only more efficient, cause it dont work, serves a purpose.

if you had iron involved, it might take a bit longer to warm up. but it also takes in longer to cool down.

i think the efficiency in newer furnaces, is overrated.: tin duct work, in some cases. got a long house the heat is cooled down that wasnt there to begin with.

im done..

Edited by LedFTed

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19 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

Thinking about a nitrous bottle and a super charger next  ----  just kidding !!! 

 

Going to try and relocate the carb closer to the engine ... 

 

 

or maybe a turbo charger like this one ? lol! I'd like to hear this one running. 

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Yesterday I was working on a Bobcat and had to go and get parts , the operator took a ride and I had to clear the floor on the passenger side , a while back a plastic fitting blew on my 6.7 where the EGR was by-passed and I had gotten  a longer molded hose from NAPA and cut a section off to do a better than it was repair --- so cleaning the floor I found the cut off section of that hose ,  the I.D. and 45s were perfect to make a clean run , it shorten the intake a couple of inches and took out all the crazy beds it had , also lowered the carb by a couple of inches , think I am going to give this a try  

 

I had the carb sticking out the side , it was really close but got in the way to pedal start it , forgot to pic all the different combos I have mocked up , which I should have as I could review the pics 

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bet it get more heat (just enough) from air blown off the engine, i like this relocate, not that, there was anything wrong with the first routing. it's sure enough out the way of your legs. 

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I made a nice carb mount , then over tightened and broke the band clamp , it is a atv air cleaner hose clamp , I looked thru boxes of parts and found all different sizes but not another like this one , I have had 200sx , 250a , 350d , 300, 450s and some others along the way , looked on Partzilla and some have sizes and some don't , the closest I found was a 52mm and  I measure this one at 54.5 , not sure how they are measuring them , likely a 55mm , any one have one laying around 

fullsizeoutput_dad.jpeg

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41 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I made a nice carb mount , then over tightened and broke the band clamp , it is a atv air cleaner hose clamp , I looked thru boxes of parts and found all different sizes but not another like this one , I have had 200sx , 250a , 350d , 300, 450s and some others along the way , looked on Partzilla and some have sizes and some don't , the closest I found was a 52mm and  I measure this one at 54.5 , not sure how they are measuring them , likely a 55mm , any one have one laying around 

fullsizeoutput_dad.jpeg

wire ties come in black. whats 54-55mm in US? 🙂 , about 6 pens across I.D.?

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2 hours ago, oh400ex said:

Grind off anything in the way and put a hose clamp around the old band?

was using it in a different way , the bolt thru the ears was going to a bracket 

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have you checked monster scooter parts ? i located a 70 mm - 80 mm, and a 47 mm - 52 mm, that was only two screw solid band clamps i saw. 

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31 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

have you checked monster scooter parts ? i located a 70 mm - 80 mm, and a 47 mm - 52 mm, that was only two screw solid band clamps i saw. 

not yet , nut I will --- thanks 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

have you checked monster scooter parts ? i located a 70 mm - 80 mm, and a 47 mm - 52 mm, that was only two screw solid band clamps i saw. 

Monster has some cool stuff , never found what I needed though 

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

that works, honda oem air filter clamps ? 

A 2nd gen 300 air snorkel clamp is a little smaller , not as heavy duty but worked ----- I think the 1st gen is what I had , but it seems that Honda replaced the heavy duty clamp with a cheaper , lighter duty version , makes sense as I have had a 88 , 90 and 92 first gen , so thats how I got it 

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The carb relocation has made the throttle responce much better and it will idle better now , my son-in-law and I took turns riding it yesterday , he loves it and was asking about the kits , might have him building one soon --- I told him to open it up if he wanted and he got it to 28.6 , fastest I have gone is 25 , I think it is time to drain whats left of the break in gas/oil out , change the plug and put in some proper mix fuel/oil , the plug is soaked with oil , it has double oil in it now , 7.5 ounces per gallon ( 20/1 ) , they say 40/1 @ 3.2 oil per gallon is the norm , seen some videos where people say don't use a break in mix , go right for the proper mix ----- amazing it doesn't smoke at all with the high oil mix 

 

fenders and chain guard are  the last things to do , maybe LOL 

 

 

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the intake from the carb to engine looks different, i dont visit this thread enough to keep track. an,

when do ya go into full production? 😀

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2 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

looks good fish! glad it's running better, are you still planning on a battery and lights plus a pull starter ? 

I doubt it , it has a battery powered headlight now , it had a rear battery light but the batteries leaked in it and took it out , might just replace the tail light 

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ah, i saw the front led light.... long ago, but never see the back light, is it a brake / tail light, or just a tail light ? 

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7 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

ah, i saw the front led light.... long ago, but never see the back light, is it a brake / tail light, or just a tail light ? 

It was a Bell tail light.  No brake function.  It did have a strobe setting. The front light strobes also.  
one night I seen flashing light coming from under the door crack of the spare bedroom and freaked me out. Opened the door and the tail light was freaking out flashing  Cleaned out the leaking batteries and it never worked again.  I use nothing but Dura-cell now days.  

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that's rich! lol! i guess i would freak out if i saw a flashing light at night, from under the door, acid on on the contact points ? i bet that can cleanedvoff ? if you've ever road in a fire truck, those over heads whelen lights can mess with your vision when you headed at high speed to a call. especially, worse with those new led LEDs. those bell setups there kind of top of the line, aren't they ? pricey to would imagine. 

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The tail light incident was crazy , it was strobing  while turned off at the switch till I took out the batteries , after cleaning it up , it never did work again  and I dumped it in the trash ---- I will never buy another EverReady battery again , seen them leak so many times , never remember a Dura-Cell leaking on me , they say 10 year no leak guarantee on the package ---- I have had EverReady leak still in the original packaging 

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