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Fishfiles

Electric bicycle converted to 2 stroke gas

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wow, that looks like a pricey bike...what speed is it ? i could just make out 6 sprocket sizes on the rear. 

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57 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

wow, that looks like a pricey bike...what speed is it ? i could just make out 6 sprocket sizes on the rear. 

No clue how much , he has into that bike ...

 

 

Something you might not realize , the multiple gears on the right are for the pedaling power , they have no effect on the motor as most motors drive off a second sprocket on the left side , some run a jack shaft to get the drive to the other side , but I am not even sure if they run thru the bike's multi gears . looks like the run a big chain and sprocket ----------    good thought though , will have to research if  that mod could be done 

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1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

wow, that looks like a pricey bike...what speed is it ? i could just make out 6 sprocket sizes on the rear. 

It's a 99 Schwinn,  it has a carbon fiber body and aluminum bottom end, 18 speed, got the bike for free, did a sat install for a friend, she got it for her kid and he didn't like the green, other than a new seat the mag rims and a front crank I might have 400 in it. It was 1500 brand new, I got it in 09. That was my main transportation in Calgary

 

 

Doubt that bike will get  a motor on it....lol

Edited by TBRider
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19 hours ago, TBRider said:

Here's my old girl, lots of miles in Calgary on her year round. Studs are the same as a car tire stud. Had front and rear fenders for the winter riding.

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Wow, I never seen one like that before , the way the swing arm pivots is wild  , nice looking bike 

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A few pics , sprocket hub , think it is going to grab tight , just finger tight in the pic >>>>>>>>  gear shift lever instead of twist shift >>>>>>>>>>>  rear view mirror >>>>>>>>> fenders stuck on there with tie wraps , they need to be cut down some , would think black paint would look the best on them fenders 

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You need to raise the seat a bit fish, if I rode that bike my knees would hit my chin....lol

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28 minutes ago, TBRider said:

You need to raise the seat a bit fish, if I rode that bike my knees would hit my chin....lol

Oh yea , good eye ,  I  lowered the seat  while working on it , I think it was when when I took off that tool pouch under the seat , I had it about 5 inches higher in an earlier pic :  

 

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

Wow, I never seen one like that before , the way the swing arm pivots is wild  , nice looking bike 

It turned lots of heads on the bike trails and was in lots of pictures when in downtown Calgary, I think thats why nobody stole it when it was locked up on the streets. Its a comfortable ride but I need to upgrade the rear and front shocks.

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The wife and I both have Schwinns , she has been on me to go ride the St Tammany Trace trail --------- I picked up a couple of new inner tubes for both of them , want to change them before riding as both bikes are 11 years old and have slow leaks -----I notice my Schwinn has almost the same frame as the E-Zip 

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3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

A few pics , sprocket hub , think it is going to grab tight , just finger tight in the pic >>>>>>>>  gear shift lever instead of twist shift >>>>>>>>>>>  rear view mirror >>>>>>>>> fenders stuck on there with tie wraps , they need to be cut down some , would think black paint would look the best on them fenders 

 

turned out good! ... when's the test ride ? hm black fenders , Charcole great frame, black seat, black gas tank ... yep I'd go that rout (black fenders) 

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11 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

turned out good! ... when's the test ride ? hm black fenders , Charcole great frame, black seat, black gas tank ... yep I'd go that rout (black fenders) 

No where near finished , got so many things I want to do yet and  didn't do anything  today 

 

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18 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Oh yea , good eye ,  I  lowered the seat  while working on it , I think it was when when I took off that tool pouch under the seat , I had it about 5 inches higher in an earlier pic :  

 

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probable work for me., short leg's

does the Schwinn, co., have anything to due with St. Matthews, Louisville Ky?

I'm thinking of Thorney Bucks.? Just cant remember the bicycle involved.

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3 hours ago, LedFTed said:

probable work for me., short leg's

does the Schwinn, co., have anything to due with St. Matthews, Louisville Ky?

I'm thinking of Thorney Bucks.? Just cant remember the bicycle involved.

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1941 = Schwinn sets the record at 108MPH on a bicycle , check out that front sprocket 

 

I don't know about Kentucky and Schwinn 'Ted , I did a quick history search and seems Chicago was wear he started 

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45 was fast enough for me, that was years ago going down hill ... it didnt end well for me, but the bike (minus a few scratches) came out fine. i reckon i had to be about 12-14 .... those old chert roads would take the hide off good.... i hit a gully wash out, and went flying over the bars .... my friends thought I'd been killed ... we never did chance that hill again ... till later that year ... 

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Started working on the chain , there is a bracket welded to the frame that hits the chain and is going to have to be cut off, don't need it any more it was an adjustment bolt stay  for the electric  motor , also have to cut a bracket off the frame tube for the rear motor mount to clear  ---- that hub clamp is finger tight in the pic  , so I can move it in and out  for chain to engine alignment 

 

Got the pedal gear shifter relocated and changed over to a lever style ----  just picking away at it , when it is finish , if it don't work out , it wasn't cause I didn't put a lot of time and love into it , LOL  vc

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Cut , grinded , sanded and mixed some black and white to make grey and painted the spot where the adjustment for the electric motor went , also did the same where a wire clamp was welded to the frame which got in the way of the motor mount 

 

Need to take 7 links off the chain , going to wait till I cut the head , might get some repositioning of the engine and the chain will be different 

 

 

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Got a problem , the chain is too close to the adjuster and the two chains hit  , if I take a link out , then the chain is  too short to make up , 1/2 link might help a little , if there is one out there , would guess a larger rear sprocket might help some , or maybe a custom adjuster arm that was longer 

 

On another note , China , bought the chain breaker from gae Bike with the engine kit foe $29 and it came with 2 extra chains , I seen the better quality chain breaker which looks exactly the same , sells for $140 , well the China chain breaker lasted 2 times then stripped out , they are sending me a new one , but it isn't worth having  

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i think I'd try a longer arm,  (just above the idler) have you added some master links ? or just testing for chain clearance ? 

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1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

i think I'd try a longer arm,  (just above the idler) have you added some master links ? or just testing for chain clearance ? 

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Good eye , right above the spring ,  that is two master links  without the retainer clips on them  ,  been playing around with chain length  and adjuster  ----- When I didn't like the way it is now , I shortened the chain one link and just barely can't get it to pin off , so I stuck the link back in for now , a half link and it would pin together , don't know how much slack that would take up between the chain 

 

On a normal bicycle the slot for the rear wheel hub is forward and back so the wheel can  be adjusted back and forth some what and get a little bit of chain adjustment , but not on this bike , the slot is up and down , so no chain adjustment is achieved 

 

just thinking about it , not the best plan , but I could grind them hub shaft slots of the frame to the front a bit 

 

I am thinking about a longer boomerang shaped adjuster arm  

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So close yet so far away.

Just a question as i'm not sure you have less enough slack but would you hurt anything having the idler push the bottom of the loop down instead pulling it up? Is there enough room below the drive sprocket to angle it down more. Not as ideal, no, because you have less chain on drive sprocket but might be cleaner and you might not need an entire wrap around? Just a thought as i'm trying to think of the easiest solutions. Then you'd only need to locate something for the spring to clip to on the frame instead of a new bracket.

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17 minutes ago, sled_22 said:

So close yet so far away.

Just a question as i'm not sure you have less enough slack but would you hurt anything having the idler push the bottom of the loop down instead pulling it up? Is there enough room below the drive sprocket to angle it down more. Not as ideal, no, because you have less chain on drive sprocket but might be cleaner and you might not need an entire wrap around? Just a thought as i'm trying to think of the easiest solutions. Then you'd only need to locate something for the spring to clip to on the frame instead of a new bracket.

 

Thanks for the reply Sled !!   I am no gas bicycle builder by no means , first try at it and trying to learn as I go and appreciate any and all ideas ......  I am thinking  the reasoning for the adjuster being on the bottom of the bottom chain pushing up is so there is always some tension on the chain as it engages the sprocket on the drive side  

 

I got some progress , going to post some pics right now 

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thank you, wow that is tight, I've done what sled mentioned, but only in a pinch, when you pull out on a chain drive depending on the setup, age, machine, I've noticed more of a chance of chain tooth skip, not saying it wouldn't work here. I'm no bike builder, so just playing with ideas.

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In the pic you can see a section cut off the rear motor mount , this time used the sander and took some more off the back , while out side I dug up a chain stretcher I had and found a chainer breaker that would work on the pedal side chain , but not the 415 ( 3/1 x 1/2 chain ) , was easy to make up the chain with the tool  after taking some off the back of the mount  ----- needed to move the wheel of the adjuster up a hole as the wheel hit the tire on the first hole 

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