AdamsZ

I had a chance to plug everything in and I have spark. Now to put the side cover back on and start this !!! Glad I got this for almost nothing cuz I have a ton of hours messing with this thing. 

The part description says “collar 10x11”. The shaft is supported by the crankcase and the left crankcase cover. I’ll check it next time I go out to the shop. 

While I’m waiting for my cdi to arrive, I’m getting ready to reseal the magneto cover. When I pulled the cover the shafts and gears ended up n the floor. According to the parts diagram #8 is a collar that slips on that shaft. The collar fits very loosely on the  shaft. Do I weld it up and redrill it, or discard it?

I wonder how they got a 98.2% positive rating on eBay. When I went to my account it’s as if the transaction never occurred. 
 

ive been following the schematic and I was wondering if anyone has a pin out diagram? Is it the same as most of the ac-cdi’s?

I ordered a new cdi box today, guaranteed to work. I asked to return the Chinese cdi box and they refunded my money without returning it. Makes me wonder why they would do that unless they know they’re junk. 🤷‍♂️

OK, the plot thickens! I replaced the ignition coil with a known good OEM Honda coil with .3 ohms. Still no spark. 
Todays numbers with all wiring harness and switches removed

Pulse generator 298 ohms

Exciter coil 226 ohms

Ignition coil primary .3 ohms

Ignition secondary w/o cap 3749 ohms

Time for a cdi? Where to get one? since they are obsolete 

The ignition coil that came with it is .5 ohms, the one I bought is .8 ohms. Everything else is within specs. I’ll see if I can find another ignition coil

 

Ok, I fooled around again this morning. Made up seperate jumper wires to the components. Eliminated most of the harness, eliminated the switches, coil ohms out at .5 ohms. Is it possible for the trigger to ohm out and be bad? 

Here is an update. I attempted to wire the Chinese knock off as an ac only cdi. Still no spark. I don’t mind spending $130 for a new cdi but I don’t like to throw parts at something. 

I put the cdi in the oven and that didn’t work. That looks like the same schematic I’ve been working from. I watched a video from RM stators and he said tha the cdi is either ac or dc not both. Can’t understand why the gray wire would have 12v on it and 55vac on the 

black/red wire if you only need ac or dc. I’m currently looking for an OEM cdi

This what I’ve been working from. I will try the oven trick. The cdi I bought is a China knockoff.

Hey Guys, I’m an experienced mechanic and have always been quite successful with electrical and electronics. I got a 1987 TRX125 for trade for some labor. This quad has not been modified and I was told that it just stopped running one day. This thing has no spark. I will try to give you the information  that I have collected. I have replaced the coil and cdi and spark plug. I have checked all the wires for continuity from end to end. Pulled the cover and ohmed out the stator.

The blue/yellow wire at the cdi has 300 ohms to ground and fluctuates while cranking

The black/white wire is open and grounds when using the kill switch in either direction

The gray wire has 12v with ignition on 

The black/red wire has 55vac cranking with the starter, 125v when pull starting

The green/white wire is open to ground and no voltage

The black/yellow wire at cdi no voltage, open to ground

The black/yellow wire at the coil has -4vdc key on and cranking

the dark green wire at the coil is grounded

i have grounded  the reverse switch and left it open and it makes no difference

The neutral light is on and the reverse light is out

I’m guessing I’m missing something simple or do I have a bad pulse generator? 
Thanks in advance for the help