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- Today
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I've never seen a bad TPS kill spark either, but it should be replaced if it's bad to rule out that possibility.
- Yesterday
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the adjustment nut is on the front cover, 14mm.
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Thanks, just picked up the angle sensor and haven't installed yet. Can't seem to find the clutch adjustment nut. Going to check out link you posted Thanks
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Sounds like a low battery, out of adjustment clutch, or shift motor going south. Don't put that new angle sensor on it yet. First thing you need to do is the battery. Clean connections and top the battery off. Then try adjusting the clutch. Nut on the front cover. Loosen it, then turn the screw in the middle counter-closckwise till you feel resistance, then back to the right 1/4 turn and lock the nut back down. If the adjustment screw doesn't turn easily, it might be seized. Don't force it, just leave it for now and come back to it. Here's Retro's ES thread. Your shift motor might be going south, or it could just be gunk in the gears under the shift motor. If you do replace the motor, OEM only, even if you buy used. No aftermarket crap.
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No blinking lights, shows "N" but just "clicks" at transmission as it tries to shift into gear. If I slowly roll the machine and shift it will pop into gear with engine off or running. Steve
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I actually was going to find your post and tag @Melatv and @retro and @AKATV since they seem to love electrical puzzles so much. Sounds like you need a new TPS either way. I have an extra carb with a good TPS if you want to try it, but if it measures out of spec you probably need one anyway. I don't THINK that the TPS has anything to do with spark, as my machine ran fine while running with a TPS error, BUT then again, my TPS wasn't actually bad, it was just an error code. We did have someone here who had a Hondamatic with a TPS code and it threw the machine into limp mode, so I guess it's possible that it could be causing spark issues.
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A recap and an update. My boss asked me to look at this thing because it was quitting when it got hot. Being in a hurry and needing it for hunting last fall, he asked me to just swap the coil out. I put a brand new OEM coil on it and got the same result. I tested the stator using a peak voltage adapter in my ohm meter. The voltage adapter may have been bad, but it appeared that I had a bad reading on the stator. I replaced it with a new OEM unit. I got the same result with the new stator. A post about the issue on the Foreman Facebook group got me in contact with jeepwm69. He had some electrical issue going on with a machine he was working on and was offering some suggestions. He sent me a known good ECU and voltage regulator. I was optimistic that we would track the problem down with these parts to use for testing. Keep in mind that this is ALWAYS heat related and the amount of time required for the quad to drop spark seemed directly dependent on ambient temperature. If it was a cold day, if might run for a half hour, or even much longer, before it would shut off. On a warm day, it could be as quickly as five or ten minutes. But once it cools back down, it will restart and run until it gets to a certain temp. And all of this can be accomplished with it just sitting there idling, riding it brings on the issue even quicker. I brought the quad to the failure point, and once it shut off, I immediately switched to the ECU and regulator that jeepwm69 had sent me. Still no spark. I let it cool over night and restarted it the next day, bringing it to failure temp, then switched back to my original parts. Once again, no spark. This machine is equipped with power steering, so that got me studying the wiring diagram. On a standard model, both stator wires from the pickup run directly to the ECU, but on a P/S model, one of the pickup wires runs to the P/S module first, which tells the module that the engine is running and to activate the power steering. Maybe the problem was hiding in that module. In order to eliminate the power steering from the equation, I removed two wires from the P/S module plug, the incoming (blue/yellow) and the outgoing wire to the ECU (violet/white) and jumped them together. This should have eliminated the P/S module as a possible cause for my issue. In testing, if the two wires are not jumped together, the quad will not run, so I proceeded to run it up to temperature and once again it did drop spark. This should confirm that the issue does not lie in that module. It was at this point that I purchased a set of back probes and a true peak voltage meter. My hopes were that my PV adapter that I used in conjunction with my ohm meter was providing bad info. I planned to use the back probes in the ECU and module connectors without unplugging them and monitoring it as it ran and failed. My plans to do this were sidetracked as after putting the P/S module plug make together, I could not get the machine to drop spark. At this point I questioned whether my issue may have just been a bad connection at that plug and by removing and reinstalling the wires, I had corrected the issue. After about two weeks of starting and idling the quad, I could not get it to fail. I decided it was time to put everything back together, reinstalling all the plastic and the racks. This was apparently not meant to be, as I was shortly greeted by the same heat related issue. My next step was running through the Honda troubleshooting for a no spark issue. It was then that I noticed that I had overlooked the gear position switch. But the way my luck was going, it would only be appropriate for this to be bad, since I would have to disassemble the entire rear of the quad again to remove the rear cover that I had already had off once to replace the stator. The switch is internal, so it could be directly impacted by heat, and it made all the sense in the world. Since the switch does nothing more than take the circuit to ground when in the closed position, I decided to bypass the switch and ground the neutral position directly to the frame. The quad started, ran until it reached temperature and AGAIN lost spark. There is nothing left in this ignition system for me to replace or bypass, and have no idea where to look next. For the record, this has a brand new spark plug. I did not replace the plug cap, but I did remove it when I had failure, and checked for spark directly at the coil wire. Here is one thing that I have seen, but discounted because I can’t contemplate how it would affect the spark output. There is a TPS code flashing. It hasn’t been constant but it is USUALLY there. While I have read that most TPS codes are usually the result of a connection issue, I decided to test it. My ohm meter shows 5k ohms in the closed position, but it does NOT climb when opening the throttle, so this tells me that there actually is a TPS issue. I also checked input voltage as directed by the Honda manual, and ended up with 5.02 volts, right in specifications. I plan on replacing the TPS, but I really can’t see how this sensor is causing my spark issue, especially a heat related spark issue. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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It’s a 2002 Toyota RAV4, 4 cylinder auto. I put a new radiator in it and then immediately after it started blowing motor oil from where the transmission and motor bolt together. It’s front wheel drive, so it’s mounted sideways. I can see where oil is pooled up but not sure where it’s coming from. Maybe a sensor is leaking.
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That's what I did with the wife's. I actually had a 420 footshift with a cracked cylinder, so I had the wife's 420 cylinder bored and used it on that footshift, and bought a new 500 cylinder for the wife's. I wonder what the 520 would do? Looking at the chart @Melatv posted, the HP difference in the EFI 500 and 420 is negligible, but you're only actually going to a 475. A 520 would be almost double the CC increase of the 500 cylinder.
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Yeah my jug was messed up pretty bad and took the crank with it. I figured same cost might as well go with the bigger kit.
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If it's an angle sensor, should be throwing a code. Are you getting any blinking lights or gear position on the meter?
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If I had a 420 cylinder that couldn't be bored, sure I'd go bigger. Why not if you're having to buy a new jug and piston anyway. 500 jug costs the same as a new 420 jug. But if your 420 jug hasn't been bored yet and can simply be bored, save your money and just bore it OS with a new piston. After doing it, and looking at the $$$ I spent doing it, minuscule bang for my bucks.
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Yep, I had a Rubicon and an aftermarket top end gasket set. Gave me fits trying to get the valve cover on as the aftermarket gasket wasn't stiff enough to hold up the push rods. The OEM gasket make it MUCH easier to do.
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and that my friend, is how it gets you every time !..folks want to save a few bucks, when in the long run, it always..ALWAYS ENDS UP COSTING THEM MORE MONEY AND TIME !.
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I hear that, i did try to get him to buy a bigger machine, but the kit he found online was a lot cheaper than buying another wheeler. The difference in power was deff noticeable. I have video proof! Honest! 😹
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Thanks, I was trying to save a couple of bucks, but in the long run it's costing more !
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it truly boggles my one brain cell, trying to figure out why atv owners who ride an utility atv, want to '' get that one extra hp '' ?!..lol. you can only get so much from these machines, after that..its all over but the crying. soo..bottom line: don't bother trying to get 100 hp from an engine that is designed to give you 10 hp..lol.
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oem all the way, stay far...far away from any after market parts, when you can get oem. if and when it comes time where we can't get oem anymore ?, then i will use china junk ( we won't have a choice ), until then, i will use oem all the way !. just ask jeep69 what he went through awhile back when he tried using a after market head gasket ?!!..lol.
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01 Forman Rubicon 500, had coolant in oil, so I tore it down, the cam lobes where chewed up picked up a used one, cam chain was also garbage, water pump bearing was toast. So while in there I replaced the rings, got it all back together and runs good, except I forgot to check the head if it's warped! Needless to say coolant is seeping out on the lowest side of head when running. So what's a good head gasket? I used a after market one
- Last week
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Battery load test was good + full charge. Have not adjusted clutch. I ordered an O.E.M. angle sensor But will look up how to adjust clutch before installing sensor. Steve
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Mach 1 changed their profile photo
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No spark, 2013 500 Foreman ES (now not fixed again)
Mach 1 replied to jeepwm69's topic in Electronics
Awesome, happy for you..yea, meltav helped me take the ECM plunge with the green coil wire to ground test, amazing to think NON OEM can wreck such havoc, here's to many trails and memories 😊 -
BlueJay changed their profile photo
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It is a rubber material and very flexible. About 3/16”. I wanted something thicker but the thicker mat that was in the store already was cracked as it was rolled up and would probably rip easily on the trail. I haven’t trail tested this hard yet so I will see how it holds up and report back after deer season starts in August.
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This is a chart of HP Make/size Horsepower Lowest ratio (final:1) The numbers after the HP is the gear ratio Recon 250 15.5 HP 36.8 300 Fourtrax (after 1988) 16.5 HP 55.0 300 Fourtrax (1988) 18 HP 55.0 350 Rancher 21 HP 54.1 350 Foreman 24.5 HP 57.2 400 Foreman 21 HP 56.9 420 Rancher FM/TM 26.5 HP 46.5 420 Rancher AT (IRS) 27 HP 38.8 450 Foreman 24 HP 56.9 500 Rubicon 33.5 HP 58.6 500 Foreman 27 HP 51.0 500 Foreman (FI) 28 HP 53.4 650 Rincon 35.5 HP 17.7 680 Rincon 38.5 HP 17.7 420 Vs 450 HP
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thanks Jeep! I thought I had sent this message, but it was still sitting here waiting to be sent lol … Welcome to the forum! let me know your you’re making and model and I can most likely get you taken care of If you’d like to contact me, I’ll send my direct contact information to your message box -AKATV
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Welcome aboard. Post up a pic of your meter on with the headlights on so we can see what you have. @AKATV will be along shortly.
