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  2. y'all are just plain spoiled !!..rofl.
  3. Derf, I think it would be a real trick to get him to come! 😉 I'd like to ride your area myself, he'd ride there and here and never want to go home😁. Wilson, I had looked at those a little bit, even rode a couple used ones I had come across, rode nice. I had just heard there were some concerns with the transmission, pretty complicated set up and if anything went wrong with it very expensive to repair. On top of that it is still a single rider machine and they watch that pretty close around here. Just decided to go with the factory dedicated 2-up. Th as it's a nice looking machine though.
  4. her stress level ?, what about your wallets stress level ?!..rofl.
  5. my first thought is crap still in tank, getting to fuel injector.
  6. just a 17mm socket will work.
  7. this tells me the cylinder is worn, piston '' rubbing '' on that side. i hope the piston did not hit valve, and bend it ?.
  8. Update to minimise her stress level we ordered stock size Kenda Bear Claws for the 300 for now. She will make the decision later if she wants fancy wheels and bigger tires. She has never ridden a quad before so we decided to go that route. I will send pics when we get them mounted up!
  9. Ring end gaps are in spec on top ring. .001 above service limit on 2nd ring(0.021). Looking over the 2nd ring groove, I'm thinking that the binding in the groove was me, though after I removed the jug...as where it was bound may have been where piston made contact with case on one of the rotations I did. I have freed it up now I also checked side clearance. Guessing some carbon build up as I can't get the 0.0015" feeler gauge to go in the groove.
  10. PROV


    I mowed my lawn for the first time two days ago! Finally got some rain after that.
  11. Fair. I hadn’t noticed that. I wiped it all off with my finger after i read the post. Checking rings now. 2nd ring was bound in groove a bit.
  12. Haha. Oh & When i take the back cover off to turn the crank clockwise to get the correct TDC, is that a special tool or just a normal socket that i put on the emd to turn it?
  13. ehhh..why are you quoting me ?..i know all rods are that way !..lol.
  14. wha ???..you dont use a torque wrench ???..omg !!!..rofl.
  15. looking at the side of the piston in this pic ^^, i am concerned about that one side at the top being '' burnt '' ??, why would one side be that way, and not all the way around the top edge ?, reason: rings ?, cylinder out of round ?, rod slop at wrist pin ?. now is the time to check the cylinder with the rings, and see what clearance you have on end gap ?.
  16. I have jug off now. Will take a look at rod and look for bends. I don’t know history of it before my friend. At some point it may have but don’t think it was when friend had it. He said it was a gradual popping on decels and then it quit on him. Said he was going 3 mph down driveway when it quit. no visible bends. Shows heat but assume that’s from assy as whole thing looks pristine inside
  17. I have jug off now. Will take a look at rod and look for bends. I don’t know history of it before my friend. At some point it may have but don’t think it was when friend had it. He said it was a gradual popping on decels and then it quit on him. Said he was going 3 mph down driveway when it quit.
  18. The lining is what I was looking for but thank you for the info.
  19. 50-70 foot lbs for the nut. inside diameter ?? 130 mm the limit is 131 mm lining is 4.0 limit is 1.0
  20. By the way Goober, that solder I sent you is very old and it contains lead. I shopped for it on purpose! The older Kester blends are far superior performers than any of the newer stuff is. Lead-free solder sucks eggs, all of the ROHS crap sucks eggs. I use real lead solder because it works the best for the jobs at hand. Real lead and tin blends flow into and bond to joints the best. Kester's old-school rosin is the best flux that I have ever used too! Toxicity may be higher with the old blends but I ain't no ignorant solder-sniffin' child neither.... if I was forced to use the newer crap I'd be forced into killing the nanny....don't throw away your old solder just because its aged, it might be exactly what you need to do the job!
  21. I'm getting my parts list together to redo the front brakes, and was wondering 1 of 2 things. 1. The castle nut for the brake drum, how tight, or just tighten it up? 2. Is there a thickness that the braking surface on the inside of the drum has to be, need to know before I order so I don't get cylinders and shoes and oh crap I forgot a drum. Thanks to anybody who can help me out.
  22. I just use 91% alcohol and a toothbrush to clean up most of the time. A magnifier headset or what ever ya can find is certainly necessary nowadays. 🙂 My shack is solar powered with a 12 volt (deep cycle) battery bank, I just plug a cord into the wall to get DC power. 🙂 Ya first of all the onboard 5 volt DC regulator on the W1209 (& W1219) PCBs are rated for a maximum supply voltage of 12.0 volts DC, which means any supply voltage above that may fry the 5 volt regulator chip. A 12 volt wall wart won't work to power the W1209 boards, because those cheap power supplies generally output higher no-load voltages than they are rated for, plus very few of them are actually filtered and regulated. Quality Switch-mode power supply designs are an exception though. In this case I chose a 10 volt supply because 10 volts is as high as I dare to push that cheap onboard 5 volt regulator while minimizing overall costs by using a common, cheap 9-10 volts PCB mount relay. Note that the supply voltage, as a general rule, should be as high as is safely possible (closest to the max ATV charging system voltage) to minimize heat losses in the regulator chip. Ohms law says so.... so our 10 volt regulator chip choice operates at a cooler temperature than a 9 volt regulator would, even though both choices would work equally well to power our W1209 boards and our cheap relays. Our next power supply requirement is a design that tolerates a much higher input supply voltage than the charging system normally regulates, just in case the charging system on the ATV ever fails and feeds us a 16-25 voltage spike (which would fry the CDI, but would not fry our gizmo). We also need to filter out any AC ripple voltage produced by the alternator because a regulator cannot function while AC voltages are present, so we always add an electrolytic filter capacitor across the battery supply rated at a sufficiently high voltage to our builds. In this case I chose a 25 volt, 4700uF electrolytic to filter out AC ripple voltages. A third design requirement is expected voltage drop through the regulator chip...standard regulators may produce an output voltage that is 2 volts or more below the input voltage... a 12 volt ATV battery at rest might measure below 12.0 volts if its a junker, so an LDO (low dropout voltage) regulator chip that allows a minimum of voltage drop might be worth considering. The fourth requirement is a higher maximum output current capacity than is necessary, in order to guarantee a long stress-free life for our homebuilt power supply. Lowest total cost and least mount of components is a good thing to look for in a homebuilt regulator circuit too. So I chose to supply the onboard 5 volt chip with 10.0 volts DC (which is 2 volts below its max supply rating), using a cheap LDO regulator (drop is about .6 volts max I think) rated for 1 amp of current (we need less than 15% of that capacity max) and that allows supply voltage from the alternator to spike as high as 25 volts (or slightly more) without risking a failure. AND this particular Texas Instruments LDO chip requires a minimum of supporting components be added to our circuit (a single low-ESR Tantulum capacitor on its output leg) which minimizes our total cost to produce them. I even cheap out and solder that 10 volt regulator chip onto a brass sheet (which is probably not needed) before soldering the home made heat sink onto the cheap perf board to provide for low cost heat dissipation. But y'all are free to build your own DC supplies differently... don't follow my lead cause I might accidentally lead ya's off a cliff someday! 🙂
  23. Quote : piston to top of jug clearance is .009 with my feeler gauges and drywall knife flat edge. " Wonder if this engine was ever gagged with water Did you slide the jug off and visually see the connecting rod , just a minimal bent will make it run like crap ....009 and a draw wall razor edge don't ring a bell
  24. I don't use a torque wrench. Just snug it up with a small 10mm box end while I hold the screw in place with a small flathead.
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