The studs as supplied from Highlifter seem to be ok. The original wheel nuts are in a bad way and I have already sourced new ones.
Many thanks for the info re checking the pressure by clamping the hoses. Brain not working too well today as we have had our first snow of the winter and the temperature is just above freezing at
2.7 C, 37F, a big change from earlier in the week when it was above 10C, 50F even at night.
I remember what them Highlifter studs look like now , the spacer is made into the stud , totally different than the Super ATV , mine do thread into the ring and are nothing more than a long bolt with threads all the way and a slip on spacer to achieve the distance --- did you contact Highlifter to see if they will sell you studs ? Highlifter is here in my home state Louisiana , USA
Instead of removing the banjo fitting and using your finger to check for pressure and take a chance of introducing more air into the system , pinch the hose and pump against it , it will tell you quick if you mater is good or not ----- as far as bleeding the farthest away caliper , which caliper is farther from the master , that really doesn't make a difference on the 450 , there is a tee in the middle and one a-arm night be 1 inch longer than the other , try this procedure :
You need two pinch pliers to do this procedure , if you don't have them , then small vise grips will work , if you are using vise grips use a piece of rubber or cardboard to make a u-shaped hose protector so the teeth don't damage the hose ,first pinch the hose right out of the master , if the master is good it will make the lever hard with one maybe two pumps ( first time ) at the most , if it test good then leave the pliers there , attach another pair pf pliers on one side of the tee , blocking off one side , so that you are only working with one side at a time ---- here is the technique , pump the lever till you feel pressure then with your other hand release the pliers, when the pressure on the lever releases and the lever touches the handle bar , re-pinch the pliers before letting the lever go , then pump the lever till pressure is achieved and repeat the previous procedure , so what you are doing is force feeding pressure thru the hose , a pump at a time , then it helps to have another person to start bleeding the bleeder valve , when you feel you have pressure to one side , then move the pinch pliers to the other side of the tee and repeat on that side
Hi Fish. The outer ring in the picture is a spacer which comes with the brake kit. It sits on the wheel studs and is bolted tight to the hub when the wheel is bolted on. They are both currently held in place on the wheel studs by one bolt only to keep them out of the way. The original wheel nuts are in very poor condition and I am waiting for replacements which should have been here yesterday. The spacer ring is not threaded and is a fairly loose fit on the wheel studs. This is still very much a work in progress.
More worrying is the fact that I cannot build pressure in the braking system. The manual I have says to bleed the furthest wheel, ( the left hand one when sitting on the quad), first and while I have got a stream of brake fluid coming out with no bubbles on both callipers, there is no pressure on the brake lever and the brake pads have not moved up to the discs. I had a look at some youtube videos and have followed the suggestion that I put a spring clamp on the brake lever to hold it in the pulled position for some time, 24 to 48 hours, to see if that improves things. If it does not I will disconnect the brake pipe from the master cylinder and see if the lever is generating any fluid pressure using my finger as a gauge. There are no fluid leaks that I can see from the brake lines. The fluid on the floor under the bike spilled when we disconnected the drum brakes.
It appears from talking to Turbo that the front brakes failed pretty well as soon as he unloaded the quad from his van when he purchased it. The master cylinder and lever both appear to be new and are I suspect from China.
Photos attached showing the spacer pushed up against the hub and the master cylinder.