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SlammedRanger last won the day on January 24

SlammedRanger had the most liked content!

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  1. Sorry to hear of your familys loss. Happy birthday to your daughter! We share a birthday. Turned 31 today......just another day at this age. But we did have the nicest weather we have seen all year so far! Made working outside nice atleast. Take care Jeep! And take as much time away as you need bud!
  2. Yeah you gotta put it in and ride it just like slime. The only difference is starch drys fast when it get enough oxygen. So it will roll around until it finds the gap and then when it starts to seep out the hole it hardens and seals. Its is mostly used with sand dunes riders. And works really good on beadlock wheels. But it will work on non-beadlocks aswell. I have it in all 8 of my tires. My mx and my xc tires. All are beadlock but the mx fronts. Before sta-flo i had 3 tires that would air down very slowly. 2 of them were my mx tires that sit off the quad most of the time. I just checked them after sitting in a stack all winter and none of them lost even 1 psi. All the xc tires on my quad are the same way. Not even a single psi lost sitting all winter.
  3. I use sta-flo liquid starch. Put it in just like slime. Can get it at walmart dirt cheap. And there is zero mess when removing a tire like slime.
  4. This is why when i was buying and selling quads we had rules we would follow to keep everyone safe. Never go alone. Always be packing. Talk to the person on the phone not just text. And always get the vin# and run it before going anywhere. Also we had certain places we would avoid as a whole. And we absolutely never took a quad anywhere to sell. They always come to you period! Cash is in your hand or they dont test ride. I would ride it for them if they asked. And one time we even had my buddy sit around the corner and pull in after they pulled in the driveway and block there vehicle in. Just incase they tried to take off on the quad. That was before we did the cash in hand rule. Scary world! But never be the guy that brought a knife to a gun fight!
  5. Yeah those i just snug down. Very lightly. Ever since i had one get stuck and i had to destroy it to get it off. LoL
  6. Nope i crank that mount down hard! I wanna say the manual has a torque spec of somthing like 40 or 45 foot lbs. I dont really do that i just go till the bar doesnt move and then alittle harder.
  7. Yeah sounds perfect. Tighten the top motor mount though! It shouldnt spin like that! The only noise i heard was that and the loose valve covers. Hows the smoke?
  8. Case and point for why i do what i do! And why we are here on this forum bud. The best way to check the cam lobes is with a small flash light looking into the valve adjustment holes. I only do this when doing the first adjustment after a full rebuild. The easy way after that is to make sure all 4 rocker arms are loose. The main reason you do this is because on a 4 stroke engine the piston goes up to TDC on both the compression stroke and exhaust stroke. So the T mark can be lined up on both. You just want to be sure you are only adjusting valves when they are all the way closed. Torquing the adjusters just makes them last longer between adjustments it seems to me atleast. Ever since i started doing that. And turning it over by hand is a good idea for doing many things! Expecially when you time an engine! Your hand doesnt have enough torque to put a valve through a piston should something have been done wrong. Accidents happen. But a hole in a piston is forever. LoL
  9. Lets go over your valve adjustment procedure. 1st remove everything to get to and remove valve adjustment covers. 2nd remove the 2 side plugs and use a 17mm ratchet to find the T mark.(Only turn engine counter clockwise) Line up the line next to it with the line in the threads of the small hole. 3rd confirm TDC. Either remove spark plug and stick something in to feel piston top. Or visually inspect piston top at top of bore 4th confirm compression stroke. All 4 rocker arms should be loose. And cam lobes be facing downward. 5th loosen locknut and insert feeler gauge. Turn flat tip on tappet until you feel a steady drag on the feeler gauge. Use an open end wrench to put flat tip through it and snug down. After snug torque nuts to 18 ft lbs. Do this on all 4 6th re-check all 4 valve clearances after one full revolution of the engine by hand! Confirming TDC and compression stroke again before hand.
  10. You are extremely lucky your not hard on it! Had you floated them valves probably even once you would have had catastrophic failure! Valves cant be that tight! Your piston to valve clearance on stock engine is only 60 thousandths of an inch! Man you got extremely lucky! Maybe your luck isnt so bad after all! Had we not done anything and you push it harder and harder next thing you know you find the limiter a few times and you got yourself bent valves and a hole in the piston.
  11. Wow! I cant believe it ran! Should have struggled to start real bad! If they were that tight!
  12. Im rooting for you bro! Finding all the valves so far too tight could be causing some serious issues. Not saying it would cause it to burn a quart of oil. But it wouldnt be happy! I will tell you that for sure!
  13. Man. Your luck does suck! Maybe a pair of vice grips? I did have one fight me so hard i had to use vice grips on the outside edge of the cap. Its cast aluminum so its really weak metal so dont go crazy hard!
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