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Mully

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Mully last won the day on May 24 2022

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  1. Thanks for the drawing, I got it out not a easy one. There are 2 bolts holding a module containing the radiator and the fan, they need to be removed and using a lever bar lift up the module (gently) this should give enough space to remove the bolt holding the brake pipes at the T joint.
  2. Hi all, I’m working on a 2019 420FM . Front brake lines leaking from buildup of dirt on inside of wheel rim rubbing lines. Took a quick look today and lines appear to be joined behind the radiator . I assume I can remove lines at this point? What do I have to do to get in there? Looking for where to start from. Any tips. 👍
  3. Lots to think about, thanks Shadetree. I’m going to investigate if/where fuel pump relay might be as it’s probably easiest to replace and best place to start. Regarding the injector is there much to cleaning/ inspecting them and how could I go about testing one?
  4. Hi everyone A friend asked me to look at his 08 420 manual shift. Intermittent fault is : when he stops bike doing some spot spraying for example, bike left ticking over and in gear and goes to move again the bike dies as if it under load or can’t get fuel sometimes it splutters when driving slowly. He bought it to local dealer number 1 and they put a new fuel pump but fault remained he bought it to local dealer number 2 and they said/put a new loom in it and fault returned. Also by accident he discovered that if he puts bike into reverse it’s ok and then ok going forward so that is what he has been doing as the problem occurs . Its a strange one for me . Thanks for looking any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Thanks Toodeep , I put a line of weld on it for grip and some heat then used my new air hammer ( good tool) and off it came.
  6. Hi all, just replacing a Honda 420 rear axel and the LHS axel sleeve/ spacer is really rusted on there. Tried some force with heat and no move. Just wondering is there anything I could try before cutting it off? 👍
  7. I think I have source of noise. Took off cylinder and found a lot of side to side play in piston. See video . And damage on piston. 20220615_120206.mp4.af4d863532cdaa1d620273ab159a6a9a.mp4
  8. Thanks I'll recheck the valves using your procedure . Any tip on confirming cam chain? It seems fine to me tight and all?
  9. I have removed rear cover
  10. Got ya! Checked like you said and turns out I had them set right. Thanks Goober. Cam chain looks ok too , tensioner against it and very little movement in it. Is there any other cheaks I could do on cam chain?
  11. Ok, I adjusted valves and tapping remained. But as I looked at valve adjustment 1seamed different from the other. I'm also confused: line up T in window and set valves, and if I turn crank 1 revolution ( T lined up in window again) cheak valves and they are tight. Another rev of crank and valves are where I set them. Piston is at the top both times. How do I determine which stroke is the right one to set valves?
  12. Hi again Got a Fortrax 350 it’s around a2001 bike I think into the workshop for service and to investigate noise from engine. it’s like a tapping noise, thinking valves? Bike is starting fine and there is lots of oil in it. looking for the best and easiest place to start. I hope to but up a video later. Thanks
  13. That looks OK from what I can see . No sign of any leaks now so I'm going to leave it alone.
  14. I looked into tank with light and appears ok but hard to be sure. There seems to be a few specks shining back at me. The carb is OK at present. If it leaks again I better clean out tank. How should I go about cleaning tank? What would you use?
  15. Just a little milk and no sugar thanks. Anyway it appears to be sorted this time. The drill do the trick. I polished it again after drilling incase there was a burr left. Test it in the bike with a full tank a number of times and it perfect. Thanks everyone.
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