Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

219 Excellent


442 profile views
  1. Wanted to ask if anyone might have a TRX400FW front driveshaft coupler around, before I hit up fleabay etc This is the splined coupler that goes between engine and front driveshaft Mine had worn splines on propshaft side Need the older style coupler (no boots) or newer style shaft AND coupler ( with boots) if so let me know how much to 99654 Thanks -AKATV Seem to be swimming in 400 and 450 parts- but never what I need....
  2. Hi jd450es Welcome to the forum! You are in the right place for keeping your 450ES in top running shape, don't forget to download the service manual here if you have not already https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15eWwngQ5SdlsIfbgpm5ZJWJYBYx3vJ7s I can get your speedometer taken care of for sure, just let me know what you have going on and we can take it form there I will send you my contact info as well Talk with you soon AKATV
  3. Wilson and retro-Thanks! I was kind of trying to do that, but wasn't sure if there was kind of a hard plastic ramp on the stub and I needed pry the button over it or if it was different- I will take another poke at it I had a cracked left switch assembly parts unit that was in good shape otherwise, so I am going to swap the kill buttons out I will keep an eye out for one for you, if you still need a button
  4. I wanted to give a shout out to all and see if anyone has a trick to removing the red kill switch button I need to swap one out and tried for a minute or two to pry under it while poking/prying up in the small hole in bottom of button I seemed to think it just snapped on the switch stub over a small plastic bump that slips into a hole in button Felt like I was going to break it, so l left it for the time being
  5. Most people I have run across that have put a foot shifter on their ES have not pulled the reduction gears out and were fighting the reduction gears and motor with every foot shift Once you pull those gears out, it seems to shift pretty close to a normal foot shift as far as I can tell. All the ones I that am aware of are still working just fine, and its been many years. The internal parts for the most part seem to be of same build quality, although not quite sure on the shift plate have figured why some crack and some dont..... I have had many, many older ES models pass thru me over the years and have never had or found an issue that could not be resolved properly as per the manual Is there a particular fault that is more cost effective to use this harness for than oem parts? The only issue I could think of might be to overide a bad shift ECU? I am not a big fan of modifying OEM and try to keep things as they were designed -are there any cons to this harness? it seems handy to have in tool box, but I just keep a mini vise grip with a shift nub welded on them for the shift shaft, the oem tool is ok but a bit of pain (use a small o ring to keep it on) Seems like lot a work on the trail to hook that harness up for emergency use when you could just shift with the shaft itself to get home
  6. Hi toodeep! You can switch the polarizing films all around its not too hard to do, gives kind of a reverse kind of look, like a photo negative look I have put different colored plastic films between the led backlight and the rear of the LCD, its pretty easy for anyone to do I made my buddy one that ended up having a low red glow, good for nightime driving, also put a kill switch that just turns off the display light completely so its not distracting while driving at night I always wanted to rig up a dimmer switch so you could adjust the backlight like in an auto, but being LEDs (the non dimmable kind) I never got around to it-yet My buddy told me he built a dimmer for his, I went over and he had put a couple layers of window tint on it- LOL
  7. I can get you taken care of but going to need to source a replacement glass I will send you PM and we can get things rolling
  8. AKATV

    hey ya

    I just picked up a 99 Foreman 450S model with a shift problem said he also had a "4wd thing" in a box he never installed I thought he might just have a newer front diff with the electronic 4wd he was going to rig up, but nope- it was an older Warn 424, so that was cool Paid 900.00 for it and just had the typical cracked shift plate looks pretty good all stock, runs great so that deal worked out Do not want to post picture of mine as the picture above is hard to follow- haha Awesome looking Foreman 450 Fish! I scrolled down and my brain said "wait go back up .....was that a MOUNTED MACHETE? Nice
  9. AKATV


    Welcome to the Forum! I used to be up in Watertown NY area years ago, just across from Kingston, nice area! See you around
  10. I read that post too, and I agree it is excellent information for any ES owner For me so far, I have tried all 3 grease types- synthetic, moly, and lithium grease, in the reduction gears on ES models ( only early Rancher 350 and Foreman 450) My thought were in hot riding condition, the greases would not gum up shifting but would be thin out a bit and not be an issue I figured the biggest stumbling factor, especially in cold climate riding, would be any thickening or slight hardening of the grease in extreme cold temperature I tried them in Winter temps here in Alaska at temps ranging from 30 degrees F down to -20 F No differences at all..... although they all shift a little slower once you get below 10 degrees, no hangups or missed gears though At low temps its always wise to let things warm up and make sure the battery is in good shape (and charging system) Once you clean out that old original factory Gunk/Tar, I think whether you use moly, lithium or synthetic-is your own personal preference If I had to wager a guess I bet SOME of the ES shift problems are also due to a weak, battery especially in colder temps, from my experience people dont want to spend 100+ on a new battery One other thing that really pays off, is to disassemble the shift motor, clean it well, lube armature ends, and clean armature contacts- really makes a good difference on an old internally dirty shift motor For me- a good battery with clean moly grease and I have had no issues whatsoever for both 00-03 Rancher 350ES and Foreman 98-04 450ES models Just my .02.... Me , I went with Walmart Moly grease-LOL.. I should ride with SuperTech stickers all over my machines...
  11. I just use the same-some moly grease that I had on hand That old factory stuff in there is like tar when it hardens Mine shifts well down to below zero temps, so I think you'll be good A lot of people seem to like white lithium grease too Either someone cleaned your gears already or the oil leaking in washed the old gunk away Let us know how it all goes
  12. Yep I just did this, its an easy job, I just pried mine out with small flat tip and oiled the new new one and pressed it back in with small socket
  13. AKATV

    hey ya

    Welcome to the forum! Your in the right place for sure, Foreman 450 is a great all around workhorse of a machine Look forward to seeing you around
  14. Glad you figured it out! -such a nice clean machine, it really would not be all that much work to pull rest of engine and tear it down, check everything out thoroughly and with a few gaskets and time you will have peace of mind and a really nice machine that will last a long, long time But I think if the top of your crank is still in good shape and the cam is good and no metal in the oil, you will be alright once you replace all the worn upper parts. I have seen this happen on quite a few of these in my time and they are still running great to this day, but they were caught in time Its overkill, but this is what I do when I put an engine back together: the first thing I do with motor still on the bench with the lower end assembled, filled with oil and no top end, is: - pre-oil all necessary moving areas and bearings and crank it with starter ( I put rolled cardboard tube around crank area and hold it straight up with rubber surgical tubing to keep crank from knocking around) and confirm good clear oil flow to the incoming oil filter housing area, then install filter properly and verify oil comes out the output hole in front case that goes to oil cooler -after top end install and pre-oil and engine is back in frame, hook up intake end of (previously flushed out) oil cooler and crank until clear oil comes out far end of cooler line - hook up second oil cooler line to motor and crank until you see good clear oil at top end with valve cover removed or the oil check bolt removed from cover At that point with all oil flow verified you are ready to fire it up and know that the oil flow circuit is all good Note : I have been doing this for awhile (20 plus years) and I just last month caught an oil flow issue on a foreman 450 motor I just did- On checking initial flow to the open filter housing, it would surge out, then drop to a trickle to nothing- repeat same thing- weak to no flow?? I was sure the oil pump and all lower area work I did was good, so I thought about it overnight and went out to check one thing and sure enough that was it! When putting the front clutch cover on, I had knocked the oil pump dowel pin and oring out of place and it fell down bottom and was there when I pulled cover off Without it, the oil was having to jump the open gap in between the oil pump and clutch cover and most of it was just falling back into motor Put dowel pin back in place and it pumped oil like a dream, so one more thing to look out for and be careful about in the future Sorry for the rant hope it helps, like I said its a bit overkill but has always given peace of mind on a new engine engine rebuild I actually started doing this because an old time auto mechanic showed me years ago when he got a new crate motor in to install, the first thing he would do is fill it with oil and he had a drill with an extension he would stick down the distributor hole and spin the oil pump to check oil pump/flow-believe it or not, he told me about 1 out of 10 motors (or so) would not pump oil and he would immediately send them back-so that kind of stuck in my mind to check oil flow as the very first thing ( I highlighted "thought about it overnight" as sometimes I have found it good to just take a break and think things through and then get back it with a plan) Too many times I have just "wanted to be done" and after 12-14 work hours and being frustrated etc, its best to give yourself a break instead of powering on through- which I still find myself doing because I am quite stubborn at times..... lol Happy New Year to everyone!
  15. Glad you got it working Looks like you bypassed the faulty gear postion switch to get the neutral light to stay on I have seen that done before on a few Ranchers/Foremans I dont understand why the electric start is not working though, it should crank if CDI is seeing the Neutral light/ground?
  • Create New...