Outdooreagle

I told y’all we should have listened to Shadetree. 😂😂😂 new factory cdi, no firing problem SOLVED. thanks guys

9.5-10.5 at 77 degrees 

Yes Sir. It’s a 1999

The blue red ohm out at 17k ohms, however, it’s not 77degrees. I love in south ga so it’s around 60degrees when I tested it. 

Thanks Jeep 

Ok. Great idea. Thanks 

I do see it grounded in diagram, but should I see a ground with multimeter on the wire itself?

I called it thermo sensor bc diagram called it that. You’ll have to over look my VERY LIMITED knowledge. Lol the guy at ricks said it the wire is grounded, it kills the fire. I think this is actually a Ricks type cdi. With your knowledge and understanding, would you change this first or not. 

Ok gentlemen. I talked with Russell today at Ricks, and he told me how to test going into cdi, to rule some more this out. He said to ohm out the brown/ yellow and then blue/ red. He said should be open line ( no continuity). He said if any ground present, it will not fire. After testing, the blue/red wire has a hard ground and according to the wiring diagram, it terminates at the thermo sensor, which is behind right side motor cover. Questions:

1. What does the thermo sensor do?

2. Can it be bypassed?

3. Will bad sensor stop fire?

4.  How difficult is it to change?

 Thanks everyone. 

13 hours ago, Outdooreagle said:

Do you guys work on these things for a living, or just very familiar with them? Lots of great advice. 

Thanks @shadetree. Please don’t think I wasn’t listening to directions. I’m just wanting to be as thorough as possible and hopefully get the trouble narrowed down to a part or two so that I’m not wasting more money buying unnecessary parts. I hope you agree with my thoughts on that. Thanks for all your advice as well. 

Do you guys work on these things for a living, or just very familiar with them? Lots of great advice. 

I have all the old parts. Not sure if new parts are oem or not. Apparently the cdi is not. A lot of new parts were purchased before the previous owner gave up on his efforts and gave me the “ project@. Lol. I’ll try to dry out the old cdi tomorrow. Thanks 

Hi @toodeep. I have ohm the black yellow wire in cdi side of connector to the end of the black yellow where it terminates in a he coil. It is good. I’ve been using an analog meter to watch the ac pulses as my digital meter won’t register the pulses from the pickup coil. The analog picks up the ac pulses in the blue yellow wire going into the cdi, but on pulses in the black yellow wire leaving the cdi. Does that cdi have a resistor or resistors that change the voltage pulses, or would you too agree with others that the cdi is faulty? Thanks 

I’m not referring to the link you posted. I was referring to the link that fishflies Posted from Ricks. Ricks part looks like the one I have. The atv is a 4x4 no doubt. Sorry your done with the posting. Thanks for your help. 

That part on the link looks NEAR IDENTICAL to the new one I have. Wires coming off of it, and even the little 4 digit number stamped on it. Are you confident Ricks are true oem? According to dr shadetree, these wires coming off apparently denotes a “China knockoff”! Thanks 

Only one top mount. No spark when kicking it over

Keeping it. Thanks for your time Sir!

Maybe they sold him after market part. Who knows. Just don’t want to spend another$150 hoping this is the fix. 

My son in law drove 45 minutes to get it from dealer and paid 100

What is the a or ac stand for after model numbers? 1999 Honda fourtrax 300fw a or ac?

I don’t have the package. This arc was given to me by my son in law bc he was tired of trying to fix it. I’m feeling his frustration. Lol

The original is hm5 98322

From a Honda dealer. The only number on it is 1610