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Anitomical

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Posts posted by Anitomical

  2. Posted

    28 minutes ago, toodeep said:

    I would guess the valve itself is wearing into the seat or the seat in the head came loose and wearing itself into the head casting. The valve wearing would be a more common issue but with the years of wear, the only way to know is to tear it down.

    Probably, I believe it’s a high mileage quad anyways, the speedometer isn’t working, but I believe the what is says is pretty high already. I’ll tear into it later, it’s been raining so much so I have to wait until it calms down.

  3. Posted

    3 hours ago, spock said:

    I've never ran into a valve "stretching" but if you can't get proper clearance with the adjuster, then something is wrong with the head itself probably.

    Sounds like it's time to remove the cylinder head and have a pro take a look at it.

    I didn’t know of any valve stretching either but it was the only thing I could think of at the time. I believe it might be the valve seat being squished? 

  4. Posted

    I have a 87 Quadrunner LT-4WD and it’s been acting weird every since I got it. I don’t know if it’s common or not but it seems that the intake valve itself is stretching because I used to have to almost constantly readjust it but now, that bolt or screw or whatever it’s called that pushes down the spring, if I take that fully out there’s still no play in the rocker but it has compression when I did that (I didn’t run it like that). So I took the valve cover off and the valve didn’t seem to be any longer than it should be and the rocker seemed fine? I don’t know what’s happening and I don’t know what to do or if it’s causing the problem I’ve been originally having. The original problem was it would sputter at like mid to high range rpm, I changed the main jet to something bigger and changed the fuel pump too but still no luck. I have the air to fuel ratio out to about 2 and a half turns and it seems to be the right amount cause the spark plug is brown, but once it gets in the rpm’s it just hiccups but doesn’t bog or shut off.

  6. Posted

    21 minutes ago, Goober said:

    Is there a particular reason you want LEDs for main bulbs instead of accessory lights? 
    LEDs can be obnoxiously bright—nobody’s gonna wanna ride in front of you. And you might have to modify mounting points and connections.
    Maybe get the OEM lights working? No modifications. Less costly. Might be easier to sell this one with OEM stuff.

    I normally don't ride with people, but you kinda need brighter lights where I live because it's hard for people to see you and people like to go fast on this road. Only one light is working right now and even with both of the lights, you can barely see 5 foot in front of you, so that's not very ideal for making sure there's no deer or bear in front of you (or people walking). Also I've been somewhat thinking about getting accessory lights but I don't really have the time for the wiring and the fabrication of the mounts. Also for the LEDs you don't have to modify anything, it's basically the same as the OEM.

  7. Posted

    Alright, well I'm posting this on here cause yet again, the suzuki forums ain't responding (I like this community a lot more, I should probably just buy a honda at this point lol). But I need to buy new lights for my quadrunner, preferably LED ones but I can only find the ones with connections like this (first link) and the ones on the quadrunner are like this (second link). I was wondering if these would still work or not.

    https://www.amazon.com/SHENKENUO-Motorcycle-Headlight-1500LM-Yamaha/dp/B08N5XZG4D/ref=sr_1_6?crid=36KU69W1T372C&keywords=Led+lights+for+suzuki+quadrunner&qid=1649463227&sprefix=led+lights+for+suzuki+quadrunner%2Caps%2C59&sr=8-6

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/294095646377?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1ekke-Yz9Rr6RNeSZIKCbqw68&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=294095646377&targetid=1644837435763&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9006554&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435763&abcId=9300842&merchantid=6324134&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgMqSBhDCARIsAIIVN1WAow05a75gjZv4p9JzEwtSr8kFyqsAVNVI8M2reN2N6Xm6IJROwhsaAjXSEALw_wcB

     

    (Also I'm not planning on buying those exact LED lights, just that one shows the connection points the best.)

  8. Posted

    Also I just said "screw it" and I bent the timing chain guild back in place and put everything back together. And now it runs but if you rev it up it has some timing chain rattle so I'm just not gonna even try to use it.  And I found out that it sounds extremely loud (louder than expected) and sounds horrible without a muffler, I just decided to leave it off for the ! and giggles 

    • Haha 1

  10. Posted

    On 3/7/2022 at 10:32 PM, Fishfiles said:

    can you do a pic of the oil 

     

    I'm sorry it took me so long to respond, I've been extremely busy. I've gotten the time to take off the stator side cover off and this is what I found. The time chain guild was also very twisted up. The oil has a little bit of dirt and debris on it because it was very muddy out the last time it was used so that got into the oil some. It also seemed very low on oil somehow, I had everything sealed up properly so I have no clue how it was leaking, I didn't even see any oil marks from where I had it parked.

    20211023_150943.jpg

    • Sad 1

  12. Posted · Edited by Anitomical

    Well I do know that when I first got it running it was very rich but I leaned it out some so there might've been left over gas in the oil maybe? I mean someone might've sabotaged me but I would have no clue why. This town is an extremely nice town and I don't have any problems with anyone. I do remember seeing some dirt bike tracks on my property the other day but I doubt they were the ones who put water in my oil because there was no tracks near my quad.

     

    Also I tore the head off last night, and everything looked fine. The piston had a little extra deposits on it, but that was when it was first running and it was very rich. Everything else seems fine, there's no up and down play in the piston, it stopped at BTD and the cylinder walls looked fine, no scratches or anything.

    Edit: And the valves were seated perfectly, they weren't bent, and it stayed in time.

  13. Posted

    1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

    Did you get oil to put into the engine from a contaminated container that had  water in it , I see that happen al the time with equipment , guys leave a 5 gallon bucket in back their truck , or laying outside , it gets water in it , then they fill the machine with it 

    I only have 1 neighbor and he lives like 2 miles away and he's the nicest person I've ever met. It's still air cooled and no I didnt go through any water, it did rain recently but I had it covered with a tarp. I made sure I put gasket sealer and gaskets on everything I took off too. The oil was fresh so I have no clue how it turned white. And the weird part is, it was mostly at the oil cap. I drained the oil and it seemed grey, not pure white. But at the cap it was pure white

  14. Posted

    Well, I got it running perfectly 3 days ago, rode it here and there, not much or hard. And I was cruising down a hill going 25mph in 4th gear barely on the throttle, and then it randomly sputters and shuts off. This always used to happen with 4th and 5th gear if you're in that gear for to long, I believe 90% of 300 king quads are like that so I wasn't worried. I gave it a minute and I tried to start it again and it sounded wayyy off, it was barely starting and it would only stay running if I kept on the starter. So I decided to put the choke on, and then try again... well I tried again and it wouldn't even turn over, not even with the pull start. I got it towed back to my house and I took the oil cap off, and it was pure white. And it's air cooled so there's no way it could be coolant. I had everything perfectly sealed up so how would water even get in there? It obviously blew up already and I'm just done with it.

  15. Posted

    2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

    Did you own this atv since new ?  Maybe a previous owner put a generic carb kit into it and the jet is wrong 

    No I have not, I've owned it for about 7 years now and only really used it for about 3. The carb is 100% original, the guy who gave us it wasn't really into doing carbs and such. I believe he tried to take it apart once but he stripped the bolts.

    I was able to get the bowl off, and so far I got the main jet and what I believe to be the pilot jet. There's a middle jet that is completely seized in there and I can't get it out, but both of the jets were completely clean.

  18. Posted

    On 2/25/2022 at 10:14 AM, jeepwm69 said:

    I'd check your enrichment valve/ choke, and if you spray starter fluid around the intake boot and there's a leak, you should hear a change in the idle.

     

    Those 300's have a carb that runs downhill into the head, so if you get a sticky/leaky float needle they fill the engine up with gas.

    Looks like I might have to take the carb apart then because this is probably what's happening...

  19. Posted

    9 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

    I was thinking about your high idle issue , wonder if throttle cable routing is an issue , by any chance did you pull and tug on cables , or routed it differently 

     

    I'm truly at a lose for words? I tried it just now, and it didn't work, but randomly it worked and I went to adjust the idle because it was way to low and then it shut off and  then I turned it back on (it didn't want to start at first) went back to the extremely high idle. Then I decided to give it some manual choke (hand slightly over the intake) and it idled down but when I went to go rev it a little, it just died. Then I decided to take out the spark plug to see if that had any signs of if it was running rich or lean... and when I took it out it was covered in soot. Like I rubbed my finger across it lightly and it instantly looked cleaner. I'm at a complete lose of words and I have no clue why it's doing this. When I had the carb off, I adjusted the A/F screw to about 1 and a half turns, I believe it was at about 2 and a half. I want to adjust the A/F again but it's at the bottom of the carb and you can't get to it unless you take it off which is ! to put back on.

    (Also when I rev it up in general, it sometimes stays at that rpm for a few seconds without lowering in rpm? That's without the manual choke.)

  20. Posted

    5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

    I was thinking about your high idle issue , wonder if throttle cable routing is an issue , by any chance did you pull and tug on cables , or routed it differently 

     

    I don't believe so, but I remember when I put the cable back on, right before I did I turned the idle knob until it was just barely touching the thing. And as soon as I put the cable on, it was about a centimeter off of the idle knob. Also I did think about the whole rerouting thing so I tried multiple routes and it was always the same.

    But I'm pretty sure the high idle was because of the intake boot might've been leaking. The reason I think that is not only because of how hot the exhaust was getting almost instantly, but when I put the choke on it idled down to where it should be

  23. Posted

    2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

    It is running hard on a fresh rebuild , you need to fix that 

     

    Is that enrichment  plunger frozen up / stuck , or the cable frozen up ? 

     

    On them carb bowl screws , I have had luck with a mini pair of Vise-Grips when they are frozen up and stripped ?

     

    Or a Dremel with a grinding wheel and cut a slot in to the top for a flat screwdriver , or one of them hammer drivers 

    I was thinking about doing that last part, but nothing is frozen and everything works as it should. And I don't believe it's the jets because it's a OEM style piston

    Also I tried to move it under it's own power and it just took off and I wasn't even on the throttle, I shut it off immediately so i didnt ruin anything

  24. Posted

    Just now, Anitomical said:

    It has a oem carb, no because the bolts are completely stripped so I can't take off the bowl, and it has a enrichment plunger. I didn't mess with anything when I took the carb off and when I put it back on, I kept the carb in a clean environment so it shouldn't be that bad? But yet again, I'm not fully sure. I also have another video that I just took with it idling after a minute (not good by the way)...

     

    • Confused 1

  25. Posted

    1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

    Wow you not kidding about running fast idle.   Is it a oem carb. Has the Carb been cleaned.  Does the Suzuki carb have a choke butterfly or a enrichment plunger.  

    It has a oem carb, no because the bolts are completely stripped so I can't take off the bowl, and it has a enrichment plunger. I didn't mess with anything when I took the carb off and when I put it back on, I kept the carb in a clean environment so it shouldn't be that bad? But yet again, I'm not fully sure. I also have another video that I just took with it idling after a minute (not good by the way)...

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