Jump to content
We have a winner! Congrats Wheeler!! ×

winchester

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    47

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by winchester

  1. Posted

    On 7/6/2020 at 9:54 AM, jeepwm69 said:

    Those diffs have gotten pricey new.  When you put it back together, slop a bunch of grease on those splines which should keep the water and mud out so you won't have the problem in the future.

     

    Will do. I bought a good used diff on ebay for $250 just gotta wait on it to ship from Canada. I messed the boots up on my cvs when I was trying to pull them out so I need to replace them as well. Can I just use any old grease in the boots or should I get some special kind?

  2. Posted

    Well I finally got the cv joints out of the rear diff on this thing. It was kind of ridiculous how stuck they were. I tried hooking the rear subframe to the bucket on my dad's backhoe and pulling the axles out with my truck and the tires were spinning even in 4wd. I thought I was gonna have to chain it to a tree or something and use the bucket on the backhoe to pull it out but I ended up getting one side out by pulling on the cv with my truck until the cable was taught/the subframe was suspended in the air and then hammering a pickle fork in between the diff and the cv with a big hammer. It messed up the small case side of the diff but my dad already broke that side with the chisel anyway. I got a big bolt and managed to drive the other side out from the inside once I got the first side out.

     

    The snap rings were rusted in place and had mud packed around them so I guess they weren't compressing because of that. I guess I'm probably better off looking for a good used rear diff and selling the good housing side I have on ebay than rebuilding this one since I will probably need everything other than the big case half.

  3. Posted · Edited by winchester

    Well I tried the sledgehammer thing and still couldn't get the cv out. I didn't have any synthetic winch rope so I just tried it with a normal rope and then with a winch cable. Then I ratchet strapped the right cv to the tire of an old car and tied a rope from the left cv to the hitch of my truck and pulled it and the rope broke. Next I tied an old winch cable from the left cv to my truck and left the right side hooked to the tire of an old car with a ratchet strap and pulled it and it straightened out one of the ratchet strap hooks. It looks like there's mud inside it so I think the snap rings inside there that are supposed to compress to let the cv pop out are rusted in place or something.

  4. Posted

    58 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

    I have a piece of Spectrum synthetic winch rope with a loop in the end , choke the rope around the base of the cv-shaft where it comes out of the diff , tie the other end of the rope to a 20 pound mall handle right above the metal head , swing the mall like a golf club , some times  you need to tie the atv to something so it don't move 

     

    Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow. I saw some people on youtube who were making a sort of slide hammer with vise grips on the end that might work too.

  5. Posted

    11 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

    Be careful with that rear diff. They’ve gotten pricey.

     

    You can’t get either side out?

     

    Not easily. I was messing with it earlier and ended up breaking my flathead screw driver off from pulling and prying on it. I took both knuckles off and hooked the winch on my grizzly to the cv on one side and tied the cv on the other side to a car and it just drags the fourwheeler across the ground with me on it before either side will pop out. You think a pickle fork would work to get them out? My dad tried to hammer a chisel in between the diff and cv and broke the small case half so I'm not sure if a pickle fork would work any better, or if they'd even be wide enough. Looks like the small case half goes for about $85.00, ouch.

  6. Posted

    Hi guys, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. I picked up a cheap boat and a honda 300 I've been messing with in my spare time as well. This 420 runs and shifts good now I just need to rebuild the rear end in this thing and it should be good to go. I took the drain plug off the rear end and it was packed full of mud and all the bearings/seals are toast. Anyone got any tips on removing the cv axles from the rear diff in this thing? The service manual says pull on it and lightly pry with a flathead screwdriver, lol that's not happening. I spent probably an hour or 2 pulling and prying on it with a flathead screwdriver and various pry bars and it wouldn't come out so I chained the rear subframe to the tire of an old car and hooked the winch on my grizzly 700 to the cv axle and tried to pull it out with the winch and it just drug my grizzly 700 across the ground with me on it. Might order some cheap pickle forks on ebay to try I guess unless someone has a better idea.. or I might just chain my truck to it tomorrow lol.

  7. Posted

    1 hour ago, Melatv said:

    Is the play on the 5 bolts holding the Disc brake on or the pinion joint to the final drive?

     

    The 5 bolts that hold the pinion joint to the disc are tight, but the pinion joint has play where it goes into the final drive. The drive shaft has a spring on it where it goes into the pinion joint so I wasn't sure if that was what is supposed to hold it in tight.

  9. Posted

    6 hours ago, shadetree said:

    just spit ball'n here, would this have anything to do with a bad speed sensor that would keep yours and winchester's atv from shifting all the way up ??.

     

    My speed sensor connector got smashed when I took the engine out the first time so that could be it. I bent the pins back out and stuck the connector back on it and it seems to be reading the speed though. I had to pull my engine back out because I noticed it wouldn't go into reverse since the reverse stopper shaft and the tab that bolts on it got rounded over so I haven't been able to mess with it any more yet.

  10. Posted

    3 hours ago, Melatv said:

    That is very good news for both of us -- yes the pins a only held with a very small clip -- so over time they will move back a bit from removing the connectors -- Where to you live

    When using Dielectric grease only put it around the edge of the connector where it goes against the seal -- that grease is non-conductive -- some of the pins only have 5 volt on them so keep it off the pins -- was a good workout with you -- 76 years old and still at it.

     

    Yea man I really appreciate the help. I was starting to think there was some kind of black magic keeping this thing from shifting lol.

     

    You got any ideas on this? It will now shift between N - 1 - 2 - 3 no problem, but when I press up to try to go into 4th nothing happens, the shift motor doesn't make any noises nor are any codes displayed, gearshift indicator just stays on "3" and nothing happens no matter how many times I spam the up button. I can still shift back down from 3 back to N no problem

  11. Posted

    38 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    That right for the voltage test -- keep digging got to be a find

     

    OK I finally got this thing to shift. I used a whole can of contact cleaner on the PCM connectors and pushed them on as hard as I could and nothing changed so I used a rubber mallet and gave them a few 'love taps' onto the PCM and it finally started shifting. I guess the connectors weren't fully seating before, or maybe the female y/bl connector is pulled out slightly so it wasn't making a full connection? I can shift up to third now with it running but no higher, do I need to be moving at a certain speed to get into fourth and fifth?

  12. Posted

    8 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Okay -- Go to the PCM and unplug the 5 pin black connector an check the R/W wire to one of the Green wires you should read 12 VDC

     

    Also while you are there check PCM for any bent pins -- also check the both PCM connectors (Bl & Gr) to see if all the female pins are even with the front of the connector have may not all be push in from the back.

     

    I get 12VDC if I put it to the big green wire but I don't get anything if I put it to the green wire that goes to the shift motor.

  15. Posted

    11 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Unplug the shift solenoid and connect 12 VDC to the solenoid -- did it shift?

     

    Just gives me a code 15 and doesn't shift with the solenoid unplugged and the atv running. The solenoid clicks when I put 12v to it though. I have a power probe, should i plug the solenoid up and put 12v to the Y/Bl wire with it using the power probe and then check if it shifts?

  16. Posted

    51 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Hi: Where you did the repair at the Green connector for the Up/Dn switch -- with just the Key on (kill switch is in center) test for 5 VDC  on the W/Bu as you push the Up button --- if so or not -- just touch the W/R & W/Bu together to see if it will shift.

     

    I am getting 5VDC on the W/Bu wire when I push the up button with the key on. I touched the W/Bu and W/R wires together with the key on and nothing happened.

     

    I don't know if this is normal but the gearshift indicator just displays a solid "-" when I turn the key on as well. The Neutral light is lit up green though. The gearshift indicator only switches to "N" after I start it and let it run for a few seconds.

  17. Posted

    4 hours ago, Melatv said:

    HI: This morning I ran a test on a TRX420 FPA  --- connected my special tester to the Shift solenoid -- with the solenoid connected it was reading 12 VDC when the Up button was pushed -- with the solenoid disconnected and pushing the Up button it was reading 4 VDC  and the ATV display started flashing -- so the solenoid has to be connected to read 12 VDC --- the PCM has to see a closed loop or it will fault.

    ( ATV wasn't running when I did the test)

     

    I have been measuring my voltage with the solenoid connected. I just sharpened one of my multimeter probes so I could poke it into the wire to read the voltage without disconnecting the solenoid. You reckon my PCM is bad? It was throwing the code 15 with two different PCMs but I got them both used from Power Sports Nation so I guess it's possible they both could have failed in the same way. Or the solenoid could be bad maybe but it passed all the tests in the FSM. 

  19. Posted

    Actually, I'm not sure if the G/O wire is grounded or not, I used my multimeter to test it on continuity mode and put one terminal to negative on the battery and one to the G/O wire - got no continuity. I also checked the continuity of the G/O wire to the frame grounds - no continuity. Then I tried my test light and hooked the alligator clip up to the positive terminal of the battery and put it to the G/O wire in the plug and the test light lit up

  20. Posted

    2 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Have you checked the Y/Bl for continuity from the shift solenoid to the PCM and also the green wire to neg of battery?

    Also on the Gray connector on the PCM check continuity on 3 green wires and G/O wire to ground

    Also check and clean the green ground wires --see Section 1 --- page 1-43

     

    The Y/Bl has continuity to the PCM connector and the green solenoid wire has continuity to ground. I took the bolt off where all the grounds go on the frame and sanded the terminals and frame before to make sure the connection was good a few days ago.

     

    I just checked the 3 green wires on the grey PCM connector and they are grounded but the G/O wire is not

  21. Posted

    8 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Sorry for the mix up with the connector -- have you check for 12 VDC at the Y/Bl wire on the brown shift connector -- if you did and don't get 12 VDC -- go back to the Green connector that you fixed up and check to see if you have 5 VDC on the W/R wire to neg. of battery

    No problem I appreciate the help. I checked the Y/Bl wire at the shift solenoid again and it is still getting 1.65v that goes down to 1.1v. I checked the W/R wire and it is getting 5VDC.

  23. Posted

    1 hour ago, Melatv said:

    You may already done this -- but if not key off check the continuity of the Up/Dn switch on the Black connector of PCM  -- W/R is common -- W/Bu is up & W/Y is down

     

    Also with the Key on check for 12 VDC on the Bu/O wire on the Black connector of the PCM when the drive switch is in AT

     

    That beep you hear is the Idle Air control valve

     

    Ok so I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I unplugged the black PCM connector and checked the continuity of W/R and W/Bu by putting the probes in the PCM connector holes and pressing the up button with the key off - no continuity. I then tested the down button by putting the multimeter probes in the W/Y and W/R holes and pressing the down button - still got no continuity.

     

    I checked the bu/o wire and it is getting 12v when it is in auto mode.

  24. Posted

    16 minutes ago, Melatv said:

    Hi: When you are checking for 12 VDC on the Y/Bl wire of the solenoid -- put the black meter lead on the neg. of the battery

     

    I checked it again and when I press the shift button it spikes to around 1.65VDC then it goes down to a constant 1.1VDC. I hooked my jumper cables from my truck to the battery as well to make sure it wasn't undercharged or something and got the same readings.

     

    I don't know if it's related but the shift motor doesn't attempt to turn when I press the buttons either. I unbolted it from the engine so I could see if it tried to turn. When I press the shift buttons without the engine running sometimes I can hear a faint whine/beep coming from it.

×
×
  • Create New...