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winchester

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  1. Yea man I really appreciate the help. I was starting to think there was some kind of black magic keeping this thing from shifting lol. You got any ideas on this? It will now shift between N - 1 - 2 - 3 no problem, but when I press up to try to go into 4th nothing happens, the shift motor doesn't make any noises nor are any codes displayed, gearshift indicator just stays on "3" and nothing happens no matter how many times I spam the up button. I can still shift back down from 3 back to N no problem
  2. OK I finally got this thing to shift. I used a whole can of contact cleaner on the PCM connectors and pushed them on as hard as I could and nothing changed so I used a rubber mallet and gave them a few 'love taps' onto the PCM and it finally started shifting. I guess the connectors weren't fully seating before, or maybe the female y/bl connector is pulled out slightly so it wasn't making a full connection? I can shift up to third now with it running but no higher, do I need to be moving at a certain speed to get into fourth and fifth?
  3. I get 12VDC if I put it to the big green wire but I don't get anything if I put it to the green wire that goes to the shift motor.
  4. I am getting battery voltage on the Bl/R wire on the ignition coil when I turn the key on.
  5. The oil is a little over full. I put a little over 4 quarts of supertech 10w-30 4 stroke oil from walmart in it. I checked the oil filter as well to make sure it wasn't in backwards.
  6. Just gives me a code 15 and doesn't shift with the solenoid unplugged and the atv running. The solenoid clicks when I put 12v to it though. I have a power probe, should i plug the solenoid up and put 12v to the Y/Bl wire with it using the power probe and then check if it shifts?
  7. I am getting 5VDC on the W/Bu wire when I push the up button with the key on. I touched the W/Bu and W/R wires together with the key on and nothing happened. I don't know if this is normal but the gearshift indicator just displays a solid "-" when I turn the key on as well. The Neutral light is lit up green though. The gearshift indicator only switches to "N" after I start it and let it run for a few seconds.
  8. I have been measuring my voltage with the solenoid connected. I just sharpened one of my multimeter probes so I could poke it into the wire to read the voltage without disconnecting the solenoid. You reckon my PCM is bad? It was throwing the code 15 with two different PCMs but I got them both used from Power Sports Nation so I guess it's possible they both could have failed in the same way. Or the solenoid could be bad maybe but it passed all the tests in the FSM.
  9. Actually, I'm not sure if the G/O wire is grounded or not, I used my multimeter to test it on continuity mode and put one terminal to negative on the battery and one to the G/O wire - got no continuity. I also checked the continuity of the G/O wire to the frame grounds - no continuity. Then I tried my test light and hooked the alligator clip up to the positive terminal of the battery and put it to the G/O wire in the plug and the test light lit up
  10. The Y/Bl has continuity to the PCM connector and the green solenoid wire has continuity to ground. I took the bolt off where all the grounds go on the frame and sanded the terminals and frame before to make sure the connection was good a few days ago. I just checked the 3 green wires on the grey PCM connector and they are grounded but the G/O wire is not
  11. No problem I appreciate the help. I checked the Y/Bl wire at the shift solenoid again and it is still getting 1.65v that goes down to 1.1v. I checked the W/R wire and it is getting 5VDC.
  12. Ok I checked out the connector. It was the green one, it was glued together and I ended up damaging it trying to get it apart so I just cut it off and spliced all the wires together. I am getting continuity of the up and down buttons at the PCM now but it is still throwing the code 15 when I try to shift.
  13. Ok so I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I unplugged the black PCM connector and checked the continuity of W/R and W/Bu by putting the probes in the PCM connector holes and pressing the up button with the key off - no continuity. I then tested the down button by putting the multimeter probes in the W/Y and W/R holes and pressing the down button - still got no continuity. I checked the bu/o wire and it is getting 12v when it is in auto mode.
  14. I checked it again and when I press the shift button it spikes to around 1.65VDC then it goes down to a constant 1.1VDC. I hooked my jumper cables from my truck to the battery as well to make sure it wasn't undercharged or something and got the same readings. I don't know if it's related but the shift motor doesn't attempt to turn when I press the buttons either. I unbolted it from the engine so I could see if it tried to turn. When I press the shift buttons without the engine running sometimes I can hear a faint whine/beep coming from it.
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