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winchester

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  1. Will do. I bought a good used diff on ebay for $250 just gotta wait on it to ship from Canada. I messed the boots up on my cvs when I was trying to pull them out so I need to replace them as well. Can I just use any old grease in the boots or should I get some special kind?
  2. Well I finally got the cv joints out of the rear diff on this thing. It was kind of ridiculous how stuck they were. I tried hooking the rear subframe to the bucket on my dad's backhoe and pulling the axles out with my truck and the tires were spinning even in 4wd. I thought I was gonna have to chain it to a tree or something and use the bucket on the backhoe to pull it out but I ended up getting one side out by pulling on the cv with my truck until the cable was taught/the subframe was suspended in the air and then hammering a pickle fork in between the diff and the cv with a big hammer. It messed up the small case side of the diff but my dad already broke that side with the chisel anyway. I got a big bolt and managed to drive the other side out from the inside once I got the first side out. The snap rings were rusted in place and had mud packed around them so I guess they weren't compressing because of that. I guess I'm probably better off looking for a good used rear diff and selling the good housing side I have on ebay than rebuilding this one since I will probably need everything other than the big case half.
  3. Well I tried the sledgehammer thing and still couldn't get the cv out. I didn't have any synthetic winch rope so I just tried it with a normal rope and then with a winch cable. Then I ratchet strapped the right cv to the tire of an old car and tied a rope from the left cv to the hitch of my truck and pulled it and the rope broke. Next I tied an old winch cable from the left cv to my truck and left the right side hooked to the tire of an old car with a ratchet strap and pulled it and it straightened out one of the ratchet strap hooks. It looks like there's mud inside it so I think the snap rings inside there that are supposed to compress to let the cv pop out are rusted in place or something.
  4. Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow. I saw some people on youtube who were making a sort of slide hammer with vise grips on the end that might work too.
  5. Not easily. I was messing with it earlier and ended up breaking my flathead screw driver off from pulling and prying on it. I took both knuckles off and hooked the winch on my grizzly to the cv on one side and tied the cv on the other side to a car and it just drags the fourwheeler across the ground with me on it before either side will pop out. You think a pickle fork would work to get them out? My dad tried to hammer a chisel in between the diff and cv and broke the small case half so I'm not sure if a pickle fork would work any better, or if they'd even be wide enough. Looks like the small case half goes for about $85.00, ouch.
  6. Hi guys, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. I picked up a cheap boat and a honda 300 I've been messing with in my spare time as well. This 420 runs and shifts good now I just need to rebuild the rear end in this thing and it should be good to go. I took the drain plug off the rear end and it was packed full of mud and all the bearings/seals are toast. Anyone got any tips on removing the cv axles from the rear diff in this thing? The service manual says pull on it and lightly pry with a flathead screwdriver, lol that's not happening. I spent probably an hour or 2 pulling and prying on it with a flathead screwdriver and various pry bars and it wouldn't come out so I chained the rear subframe to the tire of an old car and hooked the winch on my grizzly 700 to the cv axle and tried to pull it out with the winch and it just drug my grizzly 700 across the ground with me on it. Might order some cheap pickle forks on ebay to try I guess unless someone has a better idea.. or I might just chain my truck to it tomorrow lol.
  7. The 5 bolts that hold the pinion joint to the disc are tight, but the pinion joint has play where it goes into the final drive. The drive shaft has a spring on it where it goes into the pinion joint so I wasn't sure if that was what is supposed to hold it in tight.
  8. It is normal for my rear brake rotor have a bunch of play in it with the rear drive shaft pulled out?
  9. My speed sensor connector got smashed when I took the engine out the first time so that could be it. I bent the pins back out and stuck the connector back on it and it seems to be reading the speed though. I had to pull my engine back out because I noticed it wouldn't go into reverse since the reverse stopper shaft and the tab that bolts on it got rounded over so I haven't been able to mess with it any more yet.
  10. Yea man I really appreciate the help. I was starting to think there was some kind of black magic keeping this thing from shifting lol. You got any ideas on this? It will now shift between N - 1 - 2 - 3 no problem, but when I press up to try to go into 4th nothing happens, the shift motor doesn't make any noises nor are any codes displayed, gearshift indicator just stays on "3" and nothing happens no matter how many times I spam the up button. I can still shift back down from 3 back to N no problem
  11. OK I finally got this thing to shift. I used a whole can of contact cleaner on the PCM connectors and pushed them on as hard as I could and nothing changed so I used a rubber mallet and gave them a few 'love taps' onto the PCM and it finally started shifting. I guess the connectors weren't fully seating before, or maybe the female y/bl connector is pulled out slightly so it wasn't making a full connection? I can shift up to third now with it running but no higher, do I need to be moving at a certain speed to get into fourth and fifth?
  12. I get 12VDC if I put it to the big green wire but I don't get anything if I put it to the green wire that goes to the shift motor.
  13. I am getting battery voltage on the Bl/R wire on the ignition coil when I turn the key on.
  14. The oil is a little over full. I put a little over 4 quarts of supertech 10w-30 4 stroke oil from walmart in it. I checked the oil filter as well to make sure it wasn't in backwards.
  15. Just gives me a code 15 and doesn't shift with the solenoid unplugged and the atv running. The solenoid clicks when I put 12v to it though. I have a power probe, should i plug the solenoid up and put 12v to the Y/Bl wire with it using the power probe and then check if it shifts?
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