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retro

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retro last won the day on February 6

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  1. Correct that.... coil voltage should be 12.5+ battery voltage on the Black/Red wire terminal. The voltage on the Yellow/Green terminal of the coil will be less than battery voltage due to resistance in the windings of the coil. So your 10+ volts at rest measurement may be normal...? Anyway, if there is no measured voltage peaks over 100 volts DC between the Yellow/Green and frame ground then the pulse generator/ckp tests are due up next.
  2. What do you use to polish your plastics? Do you use a buffer wheel on them?
  3. Coil voltage should be 12.5+ volts with the key on, so the battery might be too low/dead. I'd charge it up or jump it with a good battery and try again. The CKP (pulse gen) tests should go like so:
  4. It's been a good while eh? 5 years ago I think....
  5. I put a KFI mount on my '00 Rancher that Jeepwm69 gave me. I didn't have any issue with the fit of the roller fairlead. I did cut the two side bolt brackets off of it and relocated them with my welder though, so I could slide the mounting plate up the frame tubes as high as possible. Here's pics of the finished mount.
  6. Poor grounds can cause intermittent loss of Ignition so I'd remove and clean up all of those before trying a regulator/rectifier swap. There is the negative battery cable where it bolts to the motor, a ground cable between the motor and the frame and a wiring harness bundle to frame ground. All of them are bolted down so they're easy to shine up once ya get plastics out of the way.
  7. OK, thanks for the info! The Black/White wire terminal inside the CDI connector should have positive battery voltage while the Ignition switch is turned on and the Start/Stop switch is in the Run position. The Green/White wire terminal inside the CDI connector should be frame ground. So if you do not measure any DC volts between the Black/White and Green/White terminals while the ignition key is on and the kill switch is in the Run position then it's most likely a faulty handlebar Start/Stop switch. Since your handlebar Switches Assembly is a china fake then an OEM Honda replacement part should fix it. That is.... assuming that there are no blown fuses in the fuse box. Fake china parts are garbage. They never work for more than a few minutes, and rarely ever work even for a second. China fakes fry other expensive parts often so don't ever buy that garbage again.... Let us know how it runs tomorrow after you swap on the genuine Honda switches. And Welcome to ATVHonda!
  8. Tell us what you are working on, year & model. What is the issue? Have any parts been replaced? Are all parts on the ATV genuine Honda parts? Is the wiring harnesses in good condition with no splices, rodent damage or other damage?
  9. Is the battery healthy? Does the starter crank the motor over at normal speed? What is the full model number and the country (USA, Canada, UK, Australia, Sweden) of origin?
  10. Did you replace the carb with OEM? Aftermarket (china knockoffs) parts do not work on Honda ATVs.
  11. Aye nah... it's not quite jeep proof'd, it just did not come with any instructions, haha! The button is a momentary switch. It's function and purpose is to drain captured peak voltage from the storage capacitor inside after every test.... it resets the voltage measurement to 0 volts DC so you can repeat PV tests immediately and repeatedly.... rather than wait for the capacitor to drain on it's own. Just make sure that you disconnect one of the PVA leads from the Ignition coil before you depress the reset button, because the coil has battery voltage across it while the Ignition switch is turned on... if you press the reset button while battery voltage is present you might (or might not) let all of the magic smoke out of it, depending on whether I took that sort of usage case into consideration when I put the PVA together? I don't remember.... so to be safe disconnect the lead from the coil before pushing the button. There is no initial battery voltage present across the Crank position/Pulse generator so you can leave the leads connected while resetting for another test in those cases. By the way, all credits belong to @Melatv, that homemade PVA was made to match his DIY circuit that he posted either here, or possibly on the old VS forum? If I put it together right it should work great. EDIT: Here are the links to @Melatv's DIY PVA threads: https://www.hondaatvforums.net/threads/make-your-own-test-adapters.120450/ https://www.hondaatvforums.net/threads/peak-voltage-adapter.34406/
  12. Yeah the PCM/ECM controls the coil and it's a good thing that I looked in the manual because I was thinking it worked differently than what the manual says. Anyway, since you have initial battery voltage at the coil, I think a Peak Voltage test is the next logical thing to do. If I remember right I sent you a homemade PVA a few years ago.... do ya still got that lil' bugger stashed away somewhere? There are two leads coming out of each end (total of 4 leads - they may have alligator clips on them) of the homemade PVA, with one end labelled "to Meter" or something to that effect. If you can find it try this with your multimeter set on DC Volts mode: If you don't get a measurement on the first attempt try reversing the PVA leads where they attach to the Green/Yellow and ground, just in case PVA polarity is backwards... If you still don't measure any pulses perform the same test on the CKP/Pulse gen:
  13. I'm a results-centered guy.... doesn't move the needle for me....
  14. retro

    Help

    Which year is your TRX250? Sounds like the float valve and float seat in the carburetor need attention. Helps to know what ya got before advising on a repair though.
  15. There are several grounds... there is a ground cable between the motor and the frame too, held down to the frame with a bolt. There is also a wiring harness ground bolt. All of them may need to be removed and shined up.
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