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retro

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retro last won the day on March 8

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    Ojibwe Gichigami
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  1. That is my thinking too. In my mind I had narrowed it down to either the JC 2 junction in the harness and/or the ECM. I was trying to stay away from the ECM... don't feel comfortable making those calls on the Internet. That is a good price for a used harness it's and loaded with parts. What do you think Mel?
  2. It sounds like wiring may be melted together shorting. I'd look for overheating evidence then measure voltages and grounds until the problem is found. Unfortunately I can't help ya sort it out right now since I am well along on a bathroom rebuild project. I'll be gone for another 3 weeks or so.
  3. I've never seen a failure inside a harness junction box yet but it's looking like I'm about to. Thanks Mel for jumping in.
  4. Yeah the coil is marked for each wire color. Do not plug them in wrong, they'll get hot and short.
  5. So with the coil plugged in and the Gray ECM connector unplugged there is still a voltage drop measured at the coil Bl/R terminal?
  6. A boiling water bath helps a bit but usually not quite enough... a razor blade scraper is usually what I end up with in my hand.
  7. Yeah it sounds like the coil windings are shorted. The manual does not list resistance specs for the coil so the only way to know for sure is plug another coil in.
  8. Even with the ECM gray connector unplugged there should be battery voltage at the coil, fuel injector, display meter, DLC connector, ECM gray connector, ignition switch, etc. since all of those Bl/R wires are fed battery voltage at the JC 2 junction connector. Hopefully the issue is as easy to trace down as it logically sounds.
  9. It looks like a wiring issue to me, since you had the gray connector unplugged from the ECU and still measured a 1 volt drop at the Bl/R coil terminal. Check out the wiring diagram below.... trace the coil Bl/R wire and notice it joins the Fuel injector Bl/R wire inside the wiring harness. Then that Bl/R wire continues to J/C 2 junction connector where it is joined with fuel pump Bl/R, power Bl/R, DLC Bl/R, ECM Bl/R etc. Unplug and check voltage at the Fuel injector, in case the issue is the internal harness junction where the coil BL/R joins the Fuel injector BL/R. I'd put my money on that internal harness crimp joint at this point.... but if the Fuel injector Bl/R measures the same voltage drop as the coil Bl/R, then check voltage on all of the BL/R wires inside the junction connector if you can. I am working on a major bathroom demo & enlarge/replace project for my daughter so I can't be here very often, but I'll try to check back here at least once a day. Have fun tracing!
  10. Yeah it looks like there is a possible current drain somewhere in the ignition circuit. If battery voltage goes through the Ignition switch before reaching the 10 amp fuse (as the diagram shows) then the drain is downstream from the ignition switch and the 10 amp fuse.
  11. Yeah you can go ahead and check the Ignition switch. Let me know how that goes.
  12. Use a stock NGK spark plug. It sounds like your float valve is leaking causing it to flood. The Shindy kit for your '87 TRX350D is #03-023 according to Shindy. Jeep beat me to it.... https://www.shindypro.com/product-page/carburetor-repair-kits A Shindy kit should fix it unless your fuel pump isn't shutting off. You can test that by plugging the fuel hose and turn the key on. The pump should run briefly then shut down at about 5 PSI or so.
  13. Yeah there are two pairs of wires, Red/black and pink is one pair and Red and Black is the other pair. With the key off there should be no continuity between the Red/black and pink and no continuity between the Red and Black. With the key turned on there should be continuity between the Red/black and Pink and continuity between the Red and Black. You're working inside the connector on the switch side, not the harness side.... let me know those test results. Leave the battery disconnected for now, but go ahead and plug in your new OEM relay module and OEM coil and plug your ECM/PCM back in carefully, so everything is ready to go except for the Ignition switch and battery.
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