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retro last won the day on September 13 2021

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    Ojibwe Gichigami
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  1. Also just in case that your wiring harness may be hacked up, spliced, or repairs attempted, replace it with a good used one. Hacked up harnesses kill a lot of expensive electrical parts.
  2. The china stator must be replaced with OEM as you know, china parts just don't work very long (or at all in many cases) on Hondas cause they're all chintzy garbage. But the stator function itself cannot fry a CDI.... a stator is just an alternator.... an AC power supply. The voltage regulator converts the AC voltage output from the stator into DC voltage and regulates that DC voltage so the charging output remains safely below 15 volts. OEM CDI's can get fried if charging voltage reaches/exceeds approximately 16 volts. So clean up all of the grounds first.... there are two ground wire bolts on the frame and one on the motor where the negative battery cable bolts down. Since you have it somewhat apart already if I were you I would separate every wiring harness connector on the ATV one at a time and clean them with brake clean spray or electrical parts spray, then put some dielectric grease inside each connector and around the rubber connector seals before plugging each of them back in. Finding water/corrosion inside of electrical connectors is common on Hondas, especially on older machines, as they are not waterproofed by the factory. So prepare those connectors now if you can.... to save you money and time, both now and later.... If there are any other china knockoffs on your Foreman replace them with OEM parts right away. Ya can't fix problems while garbage parts is still on the ATV.... Keep us posted on how things go for ya.
  3. If the Code 1 issue is gone after clearing the codes then don't worry about it unless code 1 reappears in the future. As for code 4 appearing after you cleared the codes, that indicates a low supply voltage issue. It could be caused by a poor frame ground somewhere due to rust/corrosion under the bolts. Clean your grounds up first on both the motor and the frame then follow the diags in the FSM for code 4: You'll need a fully charged battery that is in good condition. Also before checking the supply voltage remove all of your fuses from the fuse box one at a time and shine up each of the terminals on each fuse before reinserting them where each belongs. If you still see a code 4 reappear after cleaning all frame and motor grounds and fuses let us know.
  4. I would suspect a poor frame ground somewhere (one of them may be getting rusty/corroded under a wire/cable connection bolt) if I suspected there might be a high voltage issue causing the OEM CDI to fry? But if a China CDI fries thats normal and expected, they are all complete garbage. So before ya run your new OEM CDI ya might wanna pull the negative battery cable off of the motor and frame, and pull the two wiring harness ground wire bolts off the frame and shine all of those up. Coat each shiny surface with dielectric grease when you bolt them back down to prevent future corrosion.
  5. Sounds like the rubber end of float needle might be hardening up (rubber looks shiny?) and may be wearing a ring into itself where the rubber has been sealing in the seat? I have found a way to fix those pesky needle/seat issues.... I now just use a cotton Q-Tip soaked with rubbing compound to lightly polish the corrosion off from the brass seat by twisting the wetted Q-Tip with my thumb and finger. Doesn't take much effort, the brass seat should shine up pretty quickly using rubbing compound. Clean the rubbing compound residue out of the seat with Berryman B-12 Carb spray and compressed air when you're done. Then I spray a small area of a paper towel with Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner and pinch the wetted paper towel between a finger and thumb to create a "V" shaped depression. Then pinch the pointed rubber end of the float needle in the wet "V" with your other hand and rotate the needle valve in the wetted "V" with your fingers a couple quick turns. Quickly dry the rubber tip in the same manner (using a dry area of the paper towel shaped by your finger and thumb into a "V" shape). The black stain that you see on the wet paper towel is Viton rubber being removed from the needle tip by Berrymans.... At this point the rubber tip should be beginning to appear a bit less shiny... the sealing ring that is worn into the rubber should be disappearing too. Repeat the twisting in Berrymans step and quick drying step one or two times more until the rubber tip begins to look a bit more like a new one. Don't overdo it.... the Berryman carb spray will begin to melt the rubber tip if you allow the rubber to remain wet too long.... but repeat those steps until the old worn-in sealing ring is gone and the rubber surface appears ever so slightly fuzzy looking. They look new and work like a new needle valve when you're done! This fixes the pesky 350 Rancher sticking float valve problem too, and those are the toughest to fix of all Honda ATVs that I've ever seen. Best part is ya don't ever need to replace any parts.
  6. In your build thread you tested the GP switch and it appears to be bad as you said: So next up lets check the flyback voltage protection diode that is located inside the fuse box. In the image below the red arrow indicates the normally allowed direction of current flow through the diode from the Y/R wire to the Lg/R wire. A diode acts like a one-way check valve so current should not flow in the opposite direction (from Lg/R wire to the Y/R wire). You can test that diode by setting your meter to continuity mode and hold the red positive meter lead on the Y/R wire side diode terminal, and hold the black negative meter lead on the Lg/R wire side diode terminal. There should be continuity indicated on the meter. If no continuity is indicated then the diode is open circuit and must be replaced. Now swap your two test leads to test for continuity through the diode in the opposite current flow direction. There should be no continuity indicated on the meter. If continuity is indicated then the diode is shorted andmust be replaced. Let us know how that test turns out before we continue.....
  7. I am using the wiring diagram from the FSM.... So I joined the two pages of the wiring diagram shown in the FSM into one image for easier reading. Here is what I'm working with: Download this PNG and open it on your computer if your eyeballs like large images. 😀
  8. Hi Vintage, We'll need a 1" thick x 1.5" wide x 2-9/16" long piece of 6061 T6(511) aluminum bar for the heatsink. It has to be 1" thick and 1.5" wide because there will be drilled and tapped holes sunk into three of the four sides of the bar. The 2-9/16" length equals the width of the enclosure box.... Here is a link to an eBay cutoff that will work (search for a cheaper price if ya wish): https://www.ebay.com/itm/363156628802 For wire we'll need 8 colors of 18 AWG stranded copper with PVC insulation. Don't try to scrimp on wire... the cheap silicone stuff is copper-coated aluminum wire which cannot be soldered reliably. Here are Remington 25' spools, 10-color kit that I buy for making gizmos (I see price inflation here): https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-18-awg-gpt-primary-wire-stranded-kit-2-color-sets-2-spool-sizes-available/ I'll PM ya my mailing address after I've gone through my parts bins to make sure that I've got everything else that we'll need. I'll open a build thread as well, once we get started. Here are pics of the gizmo that we'll be making:
  9. Hi Vintage, Yeah I should be able to post the component datasheets and explain the circuits... its all in my head somewhere. Gimme a few days to gather everything together and I'll post them up for ya. You'll need a short length of 6061 T6 aluminum bar stock (can buy cutoffs on ebay), drill bits, thread taps, lots of stranded copper/PVC insulation hookup wire, waterproof connector plugs, a small waterproof enclosure with a clear lid, a good soldering station and decent prototyping skills. Estimated cost to build is $60 to $80 per....... unless you already have multiple spools (colors) of new 16-18 gauge wire on hand. Let me know if you're lacking on anything mentioned so I can help ya out. I believe that I have almost everything required to make a unit except for the aluminum bar and hookup wire which I'm running low on. If you are willing to buy the aluminum and wire and mail them to me I can probably send ya back a gizmo...?
  10. Sounds like a gear position switch to me too. They are easy to test. 🙂
  11. Do you mean the ECM? The ECM shouldn't prohibit the ignition to work regardless whether the neutral light is on or not. But the neutral ground provided by the gear position switch must be operable, else the ES won't know which gear the trans is in when the key is turned on - and so the ECM will fault out when the key is turned on and it won't shift.
  12. Nickrose, Your Rancher is plenty old enough to suspect ground wire corrosion problems so I recommend that you rule those out first. Take both fenders off, then go get a tube of dielectric grease at the auto parts store. Take the ground wires and cable off of the frame on the right side/rear and the other ground wire on the right side/front on the frame next to where the CDI is mounted. Shine the metal up around those ground wire bolts with sandpaper then smear some dielectric grease on the shiny metal, the exposed metal on the 3 ground wires, then bolt them back down. Remove the bolt where the negative battery cable connects to the motor (located above/next to the starter) and shine those metals up too, then coat them with dielectric grease. Next up, unplug every wiring harness connector on the Rancher - one connector at a time - dielectric grease inside each of the plug halves and plug them back in. Be careful unplugging and plugging back in the ECM. Those ECM pins are small and can get bent easily, so be sure to hold the plugs straightly aligned while unplugging and plugging them back in. Some force is required to get the large connector fully seated back down in the ECM... be careful. Next test both power circuits that go through the ignition switch. The IGN switch could be going bad... you won't know until you test it. Holler when ya get all those done so we can take the next diagnostic steps if needed.
  13. Hi NickRose1453, Check the battery connections, the fuses and the ignition switch. Buy OEM parts only, china parts don't work on Hondas.
  14. retro

    No 4wd

    Attached is a PDF of the wiring diagram page for reference. As jeepwm69 said, generally a wire that tests open continuity turns out to be an open connection at a harness connector plug due to water entry/corrosion of the pins inside the connector. So if you haven't yet.... with the ignition key turned off, unplug the 33p Green plastic connector plug at the PCM and unplug the 10p Green plastic connector from the Diff lock actuator. Test for continuity through the BL/G wire between each plastic harness connector that you have unplugged. If continuity tests good then you likely have a bad connection in one of those connectors while it was plugged in.... sometimes just plugging everything back in fixes it. But if it tests open then the wire is damaged/broken somewhere along its length between each connector. Note that the pins inside of the 33p PCM connector are tiny and bend easily. So while unplugging them - and while plugging those connectors back together after tests, make sure that you hold the connector straight in relation to it's socket and push/pull them straight in/out. They aren't easy to plug in, it takes some force... If you attempt to plug a connector back in while its cocked a bit in relation to its socket the pins in the PCM can be damaged - and then ya got yourself a big problem.... Be careful. Also before plugging those connectors back in, apply some dielectric grease to them, which waterproofs them. The factory does not use dielectric grease on connectors, thats why water gets inside them to cause poor connection problems. Let us know how it goes. 2016-FA7-wiring.pdf
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