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retro last won the day on May 10

retro had the most liked content!

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    Ojibwe Gichigami
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  1. You could just lace the crack up with zip ties too, since its completely hidden anyway.
  2. If you can reinforce that crack from the back side with something I imagine it would be as strong (or stronger) as the rest of the fender. There are some decent vids on youtube that might give ya some ideas.
  3. You might be able to plastic weld it back together depending on where the crack is. Maybe even add some plastic reinforcement or some screen to the inner side of the fender to insure that it stays together. Biggest obstacle for that idea is usually tight 90 degree corners or gussets in the plastic which makes the crack difficult to get to with tools. Can ya snap a pic of the cracked area? Welcome to ATV Honda!
  4. Might need a crankshaft too. Topend will definitely be junk. It should be split to clean it up so you'll learn as ya go....
  5. retro


    It was 87 degrees today, 'bout put me in a hospital. I'm looking forward to some 70s as the week progresses, then the big prize... some upper 60s over the weekend! 🙂
  6. Tinned stranded flows solder readily so its my first choice when running hook up wire, soldering up connectors or making harnesses. Cost is about the same, maybe a slight bit more than bare stranded copper. I honestly like using both types... but tinned stranded lasts a lot longer in storage (doesn't oxidize as quickly as bare copper) and its the fastest & easiest to solder, which allows me to run the iron at a lower temp while at the same time speeds up wiring tasks considerably. I feel that insulation type is more important so I buy PVC jacketed wire for everything that will be put to work in a low temp environment due to its resistance to UV light, fuels, oils and chemicals. Silicone insulation works in high temp environments. Silicone on hook up wire and harnesses sucks eggs though, but its generally cheaper than PVC so its used a lot nowadays by manufacturers, even in low temp environments. I avoid using it wherever possible because its so darn chintzy.
  7. What does a tip cleaner look like? I have always used a wetted sponge. This is how I buy wire, either tinned stranded or bare stranded: https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-24-awg-stranded-kit-25-length-each/ https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-26-awg-stranded-kit-25-length-each/ https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-18-awg-stranded-kit-25-length-each/ https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-16-awg-gpt-primary-wire-stranded-kit-25-length-each/
  8. I don't need that belt anymore @Goober, I put a 5/8" x 99" belt on it instead, then backed out the adjuster all the way so it mostly releases.... it disengages just enough that I can start the motor using the starter without it rotating the deck blades. I'm happy with that... Thanks for offering anyway! I will link to the wire spools that I bought for this gizmo project later on when I get some time.
  9. retro


    I learned about digging in to the hill to hold still riding dirt bikes growing up. They are a lot scarier to back down a hill than an ATV is, usually just bailed off and watched. 🙂
  10. I had an RM 250 too. I sold it right after my daughter was born cause if I kept it I figured I'd end up dead and my daughter would have to grow up without her dad. That was 30 years ago... I have a too-short-for-an-mx'er inseam too. 🙂
  11. retro


    I got myself into a hairy situation last fall, just wasn't using my head and lollygagging up a steep ravine climb with a steel 55 gallon bear bait barrel strapped onto my front rack. I was in the riverbottom retrieving a bait barrel and load of bait that had got no action. No one knew I was out there in the woods or even knew where I had placed any of my barrels. I approached the steep ravine loaded down heavy in 1st gear and only made it about 1/4 way up the bank when the Rancher started spinning the tires. So I dug the tires in deep enough to hold me still with both brakes on and turned to look behind me to make a backout plan. I had to go straight back about 10 feet then turn to the right a bit to miss a tree, then straighten back up again and roll through a shallow gulley at the bottom. There are trees in my way everywhere I ride out there, there are no trails whatsoever. So anyway, I thought that it was gonna be easy to back that loaded bugger down.... but I was dead wrong... as soon as I began to back up all four tires began to slide so I had to let go of the brakes so I could steer.... and thats when I lost control. I made it around that first tree alright but the bike was going too fast by the time I cleared the tree and I oversteered it a bit (was standing up, looking behind me, getting panicky by then) when I tried to straighten it up. The bike was partly sideways and headed for a another tree so I jerked on it to correct it and skidded it to a stop completely sideways, with both brakes locked up, on the upper edge of that shallow gulley. Then I fell off the bike into the gulley as my own momentum didn't have any brakes. 🙂 The Rancher teetered and leaned over on my knee (my leg was against the right-front tire, I was laid out on the ground) then held still enough so I could relax my knee against the tire and get my butt up and out from under it. It had almost rolled over onto me.... scared the snot outta me once I had a moment to think about the foolishness I had just done. If that bike had flopped over onto me I might have been trapped by it, since I would have had to roll the bike uphill in order to get it off of me. So I smoked a celebratory cigarette, backed the bike up far enough where I could get it wound up in 2nd gear and come ripping up that bank in 3rd, then downshifted to 2nd as I slowed to go around another tree about 20 feet from the top. Why didn't I hit that ravine like that the first time...?
  12. Just a minor, routine inconvenience. Those parts break easy if you're having enough fun. 🙂
  13. Yup, my '68 Sears Super 12... the 48" mower deck is falling apart it needs to be gone through and rebuilt. I fixed several things on the deck, an idler pulley spring had popped off, a few bolts had rattled out and disappeared, the center blade nut was found loose, all three deck belts needed to be replaced (try to find a 5/8" x 100" belt locally, I dare ya) and I noticed that one of the outboard mandrels is gonna need a new set of bearings in it as soon as I can get back to it. Then today the mechanical fuel pump went out as I was beginning to mow my neighbors camp.... its only 52 years old, I don't know why it has become so darn needy this spring! Anyway, I was able to finish my mowing today by yanking the fuel line off of the fuel pump inlet and connected the hose directly to the carb inlet, its gravity feed now and runs great until it uses the first 1/4 tank of fuel, then gotta stop & refill the tank. 🙂 I'll tear it back down when I get some time and replace every bearing and idler on the machine, along with the 4th belt that I couldn't find in stock anywhere yet. I'm not gonna make another diaphragm for the mechanical fuel pump... just gonna put a cheap 12 volt electric on it. I guess its probably time to replace the original mower blades too.... but maybe not... I sharpened them while the deck was apart and they look to me like they might have a couple more decades of life in 'em. It's faster and easier to solder those two wires directly onto the pads. Find some 24/26 gauge or smaller wire, don't need to be very big. Once you stick a couple of them down you won't want to try anything else. 🙂 Thanks for offering to find mower parts.... I'm good to go though really.... just need to freshen up my old gal and she'll be trustworthy again.
  14. Its probably gonna take me a few more days to get back on this gizmo project fellahs. I have been struggling with breakdowns this spring, both on my tractor & blade and my old Sears lawn mower broke down right away too. I fixed my tractor twice so far and its broke down again... I still have about an hour remaining of road work once I get the tractor fixed again. I'm thinking seriously about giving up on that old gal.... its probably gonna get parked out back permanently once I get my road back in good shape. I finally chased all of the parts down that I needed for my mower and put that back together today though, so hopefully I'll be able to get all of my mowing done tomorrow. Both yards look like hay fields already, so its probably gonna be a long tractor-back ride for me tomorrow. I'm looking forward to finally getting my mowing done for the first time this spring, beer-thirty can't happen soon enough tomorrow! If it doesn't rain on Monday there's a chance that I might be able to weld up a new link for my tractor blade and finish my road work. Then I plan on finishing this gizmo up. Sorry about the delays guys.
  15. The larger the wire, the more heat ya need to get solder to flow into it. I do most of my work with the station set at 485 degrees, thats a good all around temp for getting in and getting out fast on small joints. When it comes to wire though, crank it up until you get solder to flow sooner (with your iron/heat source held under the wire if possible), then back off the station temp immediately once your wire is done. Overheated solder is junk, so clean and re-tin the tip as it cools back off. New wire solders a lot easier than old because it has not been exposed to oxygen long enough to become oxidized. Pre-tinned stranded copper wire is the easiest to solder since there is no oxidation on the copper strands. Another general rule.... solder will always flow toward the heat source. Start tinning at the very end of the bare wire and move the iron back toward the insulation slowly as the solder begins to flow, it'll follow the tip/heat source. Tinning large wires requires a fast and heavy heat transfer so a big bulky iron tip works the best. I have an iron dedicated to large wire that I call my "club". Its big and bulky... like soldering with a baseball bat, so its only useful for wire. A tiny bit of rosin flux applied to the wire or joint before initially heating them speeds up the job usually. Reflowing old joints almost always requires pre-wetting the joint with rosin before the joint will accept heat, due to a layer of oxidation present on old solder joints. These are just a few general tips.... you'll learn a lot more about soldering as ya go and it will become easy for you in a short time. To remove the R2 pullup resistor, wet both ends of the R2 solder pads with rosin or melt a tiny amount of fresh solder into each of them to optimize heat transfer. Then hold your freshly tinned iron tip on one of the pads at about 485 degrees for a couple seconds and the heat will flow through and melt both ends of the resistor free from the PCB, and that resistor will slide right off of those pads. You can suck excess solder off those pads once the resistor is out of your way. Once the PCB has cooled a bit quickly re-tin each pad with a small amount of fresh solder for your two wires to bond to. Then strip back about 1/16" of insulation and tin the stranded tips of your two bared wires. 24 gauge or smaller wire will be the easiest to work with. Then all ya gotta do is clean & freshly tin your iron tip with a tiny bit of solder, hold each wire in place with tweezers and touch each joint with your tip to flow them. Pick your tip straight up when you remove the heat.... don't drag the tip off the pad. Once those two pads have cooled off verify that excessive solder (or a dragged iron tip) has not bridged/shorted those two pads.
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