Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


retro last won the day on December 3

retro had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,617 Excellent


Personal Information

  • Location
    Ojibwe Gichigami
1,610 profile views
  1. Hi Fredm21, Is the angle sensor that you installed an OEM Honda part? If not, replace the angle sensor with the original angle sensor that you removed and see if it shifts. The angle sensor must be OEM. If the angle sensor is OEM, then unplug the 5p connector plug from the ECM. Using a multimeter measure the DC volts between the Green wire and the Red/Yellow wire terminals inside that 5p plug on the wiring harness half of that connector (not the ECM, leave the ECM alone). Let us know if there is battery voltage measured between those two terminals or not. Then find two lengths of wire that you can use for jumper leads that are long enough to reach from the battery to that 5p connector. Attach one jumper wire to the positive post on the battery and the other jumper wire on the negative post of the battery (or frame ground). Then touch the two jumper wires on the Orange wire terminal and the Green/Red wire terminal inside the wiring harness half of that connector momentarily. The shift motor should attempt to make a shift, either a shift up or a shift down. Swap the jumper leads on those same two terminals inside the 5p connector and the shift motor should attempt to shift the opposite (up or down) direction. Remove those two jumper wires from the battery. Let us know the results of those tests.
  2. The brake shoes must be adjusted up as tight as you can get them (but not so tight that you can't rotate the wheels/drums) when bleeding the lines. Then after bleeding loosen the brake adjusters up where they belong. I think you'll win right away.
  3. I doubt that there is anything wrong with the brake line tee, they're just a bugger to get all of the air out sometimes. Hope you nail it the first try!
  4. Hi Fred, Great news! I am as tickled as you are that you have fixed your bike, I assure you.... :) And we all appreciate your friendly advice comment... we all learn and grow from others repair experiences, so we really appreciate every opportunity to help others that comes along.... there is a great bunch of folks here and we'd love to see you stick around and share with us! You mentioned that you rode on a beach, is that a salt water beach? The reason I ask is because the electrical systems on ATVs (all manufacturers) are not as waterproofed as they appear to be and when operation is in salt water environments simple failures can occur quite rapidly. The main problem you're likely to encounter sooner rather than later are failed electrical connectors that allow moisture and air to seep into the plugs, which then allows corrosion to begin on the metal terminals inside them. The rubber seals inside connectors are dry when assembled at the factory and so eventually a small percentage of them will fail (no matter the environment), it's a very common problem but one easily avoided by opening every electrical connector and coating them (coat the metal terminals too) with Dielectric grease. You can generally find Dielectric grease for sale at your local auto parts stores. Dielectric greasing the connectors prevents most electrical failures from ever occurring, so it's the single most important preparation you'll ever do to insure reliability of your Honda. Shift motors also frequently fail due to moisture/water seeping into the motor past the rubber gasket where the nose housing attaches to the magnets housing. Whenever you encounter a shift motor that is bolted together (rather than riveted together) it's sound practice to take those motors apart and apply gasket sealer to the rubber gaskets. I posted an ES prep thread for older Honda bikes here that explains how easy it is to bulletproof a shift motor and electrical plugs. These infos and procedures can be applied or adapted to newer models as well: https://atvhonda.com/topic/570-how-to-properly-prep-your-honda-es-shift-system/ Thanks for sharing how you fixed your bike!
  5. .... not so tight that you cannot rotate the wheel to sight each adjuster in the hole in the hub....
  6. By the way, welcome to ATVHonda chris22!
  7. Try cranking the brake shoe adjusters down tight so the brake shoes lock up the drums on both sides. Then find small diameter transparent hoses about 2 feet long or more that fit snugly on the nipples of the brake bleeders and loop them over the top of the upper ball joint and let them hang down into the bottom of small plastic containers to catch the brake fluid that comes out of each hose while bleeding. Then, beginning with the left side wheel cylinders, pump the master cylinder up and open one of the left side bleeders then immediately close that bleeder. Repeat until there is no air coming out. Then bleed the other wheel cylinder on the left side. Move your clear hoses to the right side wheel cylinders, loop them over the upper ball joint and bleed both cylinders like you have on the left side. Once you get them bled completely then readjust each brake adjuster where they should be.
  8. Wow those support bearings should not have failed so rapidly! I wonder if something is still not right inside that housing. Perhaps there are a misaligned bearing causing binding of a gear (friction increasing with heat expansion), or causing a gear to rub on the housing or cover? I have found several support bearings in the past installed from the factory crooked inside their bores on older models.... those small diameter bearings can get cocked pretty easily.... perhaps that is what happened to your bearings? Each bearing must be pushed into it's bore straight so that the outer bearing race is perfectly aligned with the bottom edge of the narrow bore chamfer. Any misalignments will cause gear binding inside the housing. Also critical to shift motor operation is the fact that if any of the housing cover bolts are over tightened, the aluminum can warp slightly which may pinch the gears and bind them. I suspect that your issue is inside the control motor housing.... look for signs of gears rubbing on the housing leaving scratches or gouging of the aluminum. Inspect each small support bearing insuring that they are each pressed into their bores straight. The control motor may be going bad too, since it was operating in a high friction gear case for quite some time.... the brushes inside that control motor might be worn out.
  9. Great thread Wheeler, great work too!
  10. Brazing rod and flux works great for attaching cable ends to new cable too. If the new cable is galvanized (or stainless steel) the brazing won't stick though. Gotta be clean uncoated steel wire/strands. Sanding the end of the new cable to rough up the surfaces insures the brazing will flow into the cable ends and bond them using less direct heat. Like sweat soldering... same technique, most of the heat from the torch flame should be directed into the cable end part, since the cable loses it's temper if it gets red hot.
  11. Hi FredZ, welcome to ATVHonda! We have free service manuals available from the link in the top menu. That thread is here: I don't see a 2018 manual in there, but there is a 2016 manual that should be pretty much the same info as you'd find in a 2018 manual. Here is a shortcut to the 2016 manual: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QvEKFzoIUuZ809T18CwVIDToUJfelcG- I don't have much experience with your model, but I'll try to help ya until someone comes along.... Basically you need to determine whether the issue is a hydraulic one or an electrical one. I would try to rule out a hydraulic issue first, because it's generally less time-consuming to troubleshoot a hydraulic issue than troubleshoot an electrical fault. So start with the motor oil.... Is the oil level in the motor full? Is the oil and oil filter relatively fresh and clean, and have the oil and filter been changed regularly? Is the motor oil a quality brand, proper viscosity, and does the oil have the required MA or MA2 specification for wet clutches? Does the transmission shift hard (sudden, abnormally hard shift, causing driveline shock or lurching) while upshifting, just before the transmission fails to downshift and the electrical errors out? In other words, do the upshifts become progressively more sudden and abnormally hard as the motor warms to full operating temp? The next time your 500 fails to shift and while the motor is still hot, test the shift solenoid (see the service manual) and unplug the two-wire shift motor connector to inspect the connectors for corrosion in the terminals. Also look for any indication of those connector terminals overheating. They'll be discolored if they've been hot. You can test the shift motor by applying battery voltage to the unplugged motor connector terminals. See the manual for more info. EDIT: DTC 24-1 indicates a shift motor circuit fault. However, insufficient oil pressure or a hydraulic circuit issue may possibly result in the PCM to report a DTC 24-1 fault. Rule out possible hydraulic issues before proceeding with electrical component testing.
  12. If you ever visit the Keweenaw Bay area look me up Vintage!! Got pics today... the enclosure and heatsink are prepped and I am now laying out and soldering parts onto the Proto board. Here is a pic showing the heatsink and enclosure after drilling and tapping for enclosure box attachment screws. The heatsink was wetsanded smooth and shiny to maximize heat transfer from the two voltage regulators that will attach to the aluminum surface. The enclosure was drilled for mounting and a square hole/window was cut where the two regulators must mate with the heatsink. Ten holes were then drilled in the bottom of the enclosure for the wiring harnesses. The plastic enclosure box was roughed up with sandpaper in the areas where there will be glue & sealer for waterproofing the box/heatsink assembly. This pic shows how the heatsink will be mated with the bottom of the enclosure box. There are three mounting location options - the center or at either end of the heatsink - for the waterproof momentary switch. I'll ship this with the switch located in the center location (as on my Rancher), but one of those other two locations may be handy if the gizmo is mounted to the ATV any differently than is intended by this build. Options are good.... Also in this view are the two offset 1/4" bolts that will mount the gizmo to the '03 Rancher frame. I'll hang a pic of that frame mount location later on when we are talking about the gizmo installation details. This is the offset holes drill template that will be provided for center punching and drilling the Rancher frame for the gizmo installation. More later about that....
  13. Yeah, I'm in the northwestern upper peninsula of STATE OF MICHIGAN corporation. Anyone can... it takes determination is all... go for it!
  14. Welcome to ATVHonda Ken!
  15. No pics today... I didn't get to the point that I wanted to today because I have misplaced my boxes of #4-40 and #6-32 screws and spent too much time trying to find where I left them. Still made decent progress though... I found enough screws to complete the gizmo by sorting through random bags of screws, so there'll be pics of progress tomorrow!
  • Create New...