retro

Yeah good reading, so the green/yellow is not shorted to ground which likely means that the ECM is bad. However, there is no way to test the ECM so the decision whether to replace it or not is all yours.

Me too! Glad ya had the cojones to make the call on the ECM 'cause I wasn't gonna.

Measurements look more trustworthy now. On your green to plug wire boot and black to plug wire boot, does your autoranging meter display 18.50K ohms? The range indication may appear in the corner of the screen where you may not notice it...... Also FYI just in case, the stack of metal plates sticking out of the end of the coil is ground for measurement purposes. With the 33p ECM connector unplugged and the green/yellow unplugged from the coil, check continuity or resistance again between the green/yellow coil harness wire terminal and ground. The result should be an open circuit.

I'm not saying your guides are bad... your 450 is low miles and if you've replaced valves before you won't need a machine shop. Likely just replace the valve seals and lap the valves in and run it.

@AKATV will be along shortly. Welcome to ATVHonda!

No point in riding it, just tear it down and fix it. Who knows, it might have been sunk... just gonna do more damage running it.

Well, epoxy melts at 450-550 degrees F, depending on the resin type so whenever those desperado days come around I'll be firing my WWII (mfg 1945) Tappan Deluxe!

I worked on a 450 once that had a loose valve guide (they're pressed into the aluminum head) that had risen up out of the head far enough that the underside of the valve spring retainer was hitting the top of the valve guide each time the intake valve opened, but the noise was intermittent and seemed to hammer more often when the motor was revved up. I fixed it by pulling the valve guide out of the head, cleaned up the guide and it's bore with 91% alcohol, then coated the guide and it's bore with Red Loctite and pushed the guide back in place. After cleaning up the excess Loctite I let it harden overnight then lapped that valve in to the seat with lapping compound and it's still running strong. You'll never know what you'll find wrong until ya open it up! Do you know how many hours/miles are on your 450?

I haven't opened one yet. I haven't even worked on any of the 420s or 500s that had a bad ECM yet. I'm just guessing but, those ECMs are probably potted in resin (like the old CDIs, Fan Control and Shift ECM modules are) which could mean they could be a bugger for desperados to repair.

Wow very nice machines! I envy you!

The experts have got your back! The only thing I can add is: do not EVER replace ANY part with a china knockoff. Buy genuine OEM Honda parts only, or else! I like Vince at Mr Crankshaft too, the Vesrah rods and his work are top notch.

I need a few days (very busy right now) to build a Peak Voltage Adapter for you. I'll PM you when I get one ready to ship.

We don't know enough about how the ECM controls the coil so we must assume that a good coil may possibly get hot over time without blowing a fuse. Just don't plug the next new coil in until we learn more about it. Order your next coil from RockyMountainATV beginning at this link to insure that you get a genuine Honda coil (part number 30510-HP5-601) : https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Honda

That sounds reasonable to me! DO NOT PLUG THE NEW COIL IN THOUGH! Just measure it when you get it and let us know those readings so we can analyze them. Mark the new coil that you have now and mark the new coil when it arrives so you won't get them mixed up while we test them. In the meantime I am going to try to build a Peak Voltage Adapter for you.

That's better, it looks like you have a secondary winding now. However, I don't know what the secondary should measure since the service manual doesn't publish that spec. But I expected to see the secondary measuring between 6.5k ohms to 9.8k ohms, within a similar range to the older model coils whose specs were published by Honda. So I don't know.... it looks wrong to me. Your primary winding measurement is higher than I expected as well, but it looks reasonable, so I can't shoot it down. My conclusion....? It's possible that your coil is bad but I can't prove my analysis without having a known good working coil in hand to test. I need to understand more about how the ECM loads and unloads the primary winding as well, with the only clue that I have to analyse those functions being that the Black/Red terminal receives battery voltage at all times while the ignition switch is on. I need a functional Rancher to test and learn from... so basically what I'm saying is that I'm not knowledgeable enough to help you decide whether the ECM (and/or coil) is bad or not.

Yes, both the sun and moon are producing radiation within the spectrum of visible light. The radiation from the sun is warm so you escape to the shade for relief from the heat.... While the radiation from the moon is cold so you escape to the shade for relief from the cold. Obviously the moon produces it's own form of light radiation than the sun, which cools the air rather than heats the air. The moon is not a rock just as the sun is not a rock. If the moonlight you observe were indeed reflected radiation from the sun as your rulers would like you to believe, then you would feel and measure warmth from the sun reflected off the moon at night, not cold. In fact, air heated by the sun during the day would remain heated during the night if not for the opposing radiation energy from the moon cooling that air. Energy is required to increase temperature and energy is required to decrease temperature.... lacking an energy force, nothing changes.

I see no secondary windings at all, the secondary windings are measuring open circuit. Try setting your multimeter to a higher resistance range that will cover up to 10,000 ohms minimum (10k or the next higher range) and measure those again. Make sure that your meter probe is contacting the metal spark plug clip inside the boot while measuring.

Nice ride you got there! Congrats!

Not trying to start any controversy here, but the moon is a luminary and the sun is a luminary.... and the moon and sun independently produce two distinctly different forms (having differing radiant properties) of light. Neither of them are solid objects, they are both luminaries and neither of them illuminate the other. The sun produces a warm form of light, while the moon produces a cold form of light. Both the sun and the moon luminaries are the exact same size (diameter) as the other -- and both the sun and the moon are local to our closed system we call earth. Ain't neither of them spinning balls hurtling through space, they are part of our local earth system environment. You can prove to yourself the two distinct light radiation properties generated by the sun and moon. Begin by measuring the air temperature in full sunlight, then measuring air temperature where the sunlight is shaded by a large object (a building, a tree etc.). You'll find that the temperature is warm but is always a bit cooler in the shade where less sunlight is available.... Then measure the air temperature during the night in full moonlight. Next measure the the air temp where the moonlight is shaded by an object (a building, a tree etc.). You'll find that the air temperature is comparatively colder, but is warmer inside the shaded area of moonlight than it is in full moonlight. That stark reality is because the sun and moon are two entirely differing luminaries functioning entirely independent of one another. Being luminaries, neither the sun nor the moon are solid and neither can be "landed" upon by NASA or SpaceX or anyone else. Space is fake, there is no such thing to access.... space travel is faked and frauded for mind control and revenue robbery purposes. It's just an ordinary govcorp business venture that they began to roll out during 1958, the year after I was born. If you've ever read an encyclopedia published prior to 1958 you already possess this knowledge and much, much more.... Further, if you practice any of the "western" religions then you should already possess knowledge of your stationary local earth and it's closed system which includes the sun, moon, wandering stars (AKA "Plane-ts", haha), the not-wandering (circular motion) stars and the stationary star Polaris at the centermost of earth's system, which marks the location of our north pole. You also understand that water always finds and maintains it's level and the oceans are perfectly flat. Water does not stick to a spinning ball (incidentally according to the perps -- within a pressurized gaseous atmosphere bordered by a pressure-less "vacuum" of "space") Try that experiment at home..... Two lights, not one.... The path of totality of the solar eclipse across the states proves much, much more than you have imagined.... I imagine. If you were paying any attention you know without a doubt that the helio-centric model is childish BS.

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Yes, part number 6, Reverse Switch 35370-HN2-005. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35370-HN2-005 I am only guessing though, I do not know for certain if a bad Reverse switch could cause the motor to die when shifting into gear, or not? This is what I would do.... Remove the Reverse switch from the gear shifter and try to clean it with electrical parts cleaner solvent or brake parts cleaner solvent, then test it to be sure it works -- then reinstall it onto the gear shifter. If the Reverse switch is bad you'll need to replace it. Check the switch on the underside of the Front Brake lever (right side of handlebar) and be sure that the front brake lever returns completely when releasing the front brakes. Does the brake lights work? If the brake lights turn on and turn off properly, then that switch is probably good. Unplug and test the Gear Position switch. Unplug and test the ESP switch. Reinstall all of the genuine OEM Honda parts that you replaced, including the carburetor, if you have not done so yet. Finally, you must Initialize the ECM (Initial Setting Procedure) since the Angle sensor and Carburetor were removed and replaced. I will include test procedures from the service manual in the next post. Sí, número de pieza 6, interruptor de marcha atrás 35370-HN2-005. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35370-HN2-005 Sin embargo, solo estoy adivinando, no sé con certeza si un interruptor de marcha atrás defectuoso podría causar que el motor se apague al cambiar de marcha, o no. Esto es lo que yo haría.... Retire el interruptor de marcha atrás de la palanca de cambios e intente limpiarlo con solvente limpiador de piezas eléctricas o solvente limpiador de piezas de frenos, luego pruébelo para asegurarse de que funcione y luego vuelva a instalarlo en la palanca de cambios. Si el interruptor de marcha atrás está averiado, deberás reemplazarlo. Verifique el interruptor en la parte inferior de la palanca del freno delantero (lado derecho del manillar) y asegúrese de que la palanca del freno delantero regrese completamente al soltar los frenos delanteros. ¿Funcionan las luces de freno? Si las luces de freno se encienden y apagan correctamente, entonces ese interruptor probablemente esté en buen estado. Desenchufe y pruebe el interruptor de posición de marcha. Desenchufe y pruebe el interruptor ESP. Vuelva a instalar todas las piezas originales de Honda OEM que reemplazó, incluido el carburador, si aún no lo ha hecho. Finalmente, debe inicializar el ECM (procedimiento de configuración inicial) ya que se quitaron y reemplazaron el sensor de ángulo y el carburador. Incluiré procedimientos de prueba del manual de servicio en la próxima publicación.

@toodeep, do you think a bad gear position switch could cause the ignition to shut down?

Yeah, jumpering battery voltage to the coil would bypass a high resistance joint in the harness. It would do nothing for a shorted wire though. As you said a harness and an ECU should fix it. Your logic is solid too, swap the harness then the ECU.... it's big bucks and a lot of tedious work but it would be fixed right.