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wheelsquad

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wheelsquad last won the day on November 26 2020

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  1. Yep I definitely think it was just the loose screws causing the leak. Ran great for about an hour after I put it all back together. Which was long enough to sell it off 🕵️‍♂️
  2. Went to take it apart and all 3 screws seemed way too loose. Took it apart anyway and couldn't find any tears or other issues with the diaphragm, so I reassembled and all is good. Wife isn't strong enough to consistently be able to pull start it for my oldest kid, so got someone coming to look at it today, and if it sells will be on the lookout for a kids atv with electric start. Market for them has definitely chilled now thankfully, compared to a year ago when I picked this one up.
  3. Hmmm yeah that seems to be the likely culprit. I'll pull the old one off and my guess is it'll be an old dry cracked diaphragm. New suzuki part doesn't seem to be too much of a gouge at least: https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/13234-18910?ref=9b36355636644e786e3c0d46054a7e84923c26e6, if that is what is needed.
  4. Hey guys I acquired a 1984 Suzuki LT125 last year for my oldest kid to try, wasn't running at the time, had a local shadetree look at it and he got it going, ran well until we put it away for the winter. Went to run it a few weeks ago, and now it sprays fuel out this hole when running. Also pumps fuel out of the hole as I push and pull on the black knob. Not familiar with this mechanism on a carb. Seems like it could be a primer knob, but why the spewing out the hole? Anyone familiar with these?
  5. Yep definitely needs a re-initializing after replacing any of those parts. The service manual defines pretty well replacement of which parts require it.
  6. The computer I'm on most of the time has Google Drive access blocked, and yep, pain in the rear to look on phone but that's what I just did. Pg 24-32 says to check the connections, and I can vouch from experience that one time mine got all wonky with shifting and error codes, and a loose connector was the cause. Good thing to try would be to take every connector apart, clean, and re-assemble with dielectric grease.
  7. I don't have access at the moment to the service manual....anyone able to look up what code 12 is?
  8. Thanks! Yep still kinda surprised she’s hanging in there. Might be due for a 2nd clutch replacement soon though.
  9. Any of you guys that were of the opinion to rebuild want either of the OEM honda starters I had to replace this past year? one is off a 1985 TRX250 Utility, oem starters are no longer available. the other is this one off the 2004 TRX400FA. Partzilla wants $423 for a new one. Not sure if they are worth rebuilding or not for an easy flip and sell on fleabay, but figured I’d ask here before I scrap em. Will mail to anyone here that wants em.
  10. This exact problem is why I love my @retrofan control gizmo. I'm still amazed at how well it works every time I get on my Rancher AT.
  11. Got the new db starter in today. Along with a new engine sub-harness (one of the wires to the F position sensor was intermittently losing connection). Good thing we had to do them both at the same time too cause same parts had to be removed for access to do both jobs. That db starter sure seems stronger than the OEM starter. Has never fired up so fast.
  12. Great info guys. I ordered a DB that first night. Will definitely hang onto the original one in case the DB tanks. @retro I'll keep that offer in mind. I won't bother you with the starter right away, this DB one should outlive the rest of Rancher if it gets half the life of the original one. I'm definitely still interested in the trigger link though. I should show you the latest excal things I've done too.
  13. I don't know if it's that bad inside, but I know my dexterity is too poor (nearly nonexistent) to be able to rebuild it. And the patience of my family members who have dexterity is also non-existent. So plopping in a new starter is our best option.
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