Jump to content

Skeemindemon

Members
  • Content Count

    2
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral
6,324 profile views
  1. That’s what I’m thinking also. Last piece of the puzzle I haven’t tested. Read that these yrs are know to break off the back of the shift drum. The motor has to come out in order to get to that yea? If it is broken can I just remove it n put a new one back in? I’ve heard of ppl running their bikes even tho it’s broke? Confused cuz how would it shift?
  2. GOING CRAZY trying to figure this out. Backstory. Driving down the road, heard a loud bang/pop come from under the seat area and wheeler just dies. Ignition fuse blew and keeps blowing the second I turn the key on. Got it to stop blowing but I still have no spark. The elec shift does not work either and the gear position on my display reads “—-“ but the green neutral light is on along with the red light to the left of it, assuming that the reverse light. WHAT IVE DONE: -removed shift motor, cleaned out, bench tested, it’s good. cleaned n tested angle sensor while I was right there and that was good. -tested the stator for continuity and voltage when cranking, good -tested kill switch for continuity in run and off position, good -disconnected ES shift buttons harness/connectors under right side of fuel tank and check for continuity during up and down shift, good -replaced the ignition coil -replaced icm box -replaced spark plug -tested the ignition pulse generator when cranking for voltage, good -tested main relay and starter relay, good -removed regulator/rectifier, cleaned frame really good and mounted, then back probed with a multimeter to make sure I had voltage going through it and not terminating there, good -continuity on carb heater, good. -speed sensor is broke but it was not sparking before I broke it anyway lol only thing I haven’t tested is the gear position switch. I just found out to test it. ALSO the bike rolled in neutral freely. I lifted the bike, put on jack stands, shifted the bike using manual shift lever, now when the front tires rotate when turned all the way to the left/right makes a rapid knocking noise but doesn’t when the tires are facing straight. The rear tires will move about a half of rotation then bind up. If I remove the rubber boot that covers the U joint connecting the rear drive shaft, I spin the front tires and I can see that U joint spinning but the rear axle is stationary. Im ready to take this out back n load it with tannerite
×
×
  • Create New...