shwagy357

The manual says the narrower ring is the top. The shindy instructions say the lighter colored ring is the top. Seems like the black ring has the narrowest width and thats what is confusing.

I got my cylinder bored .25 over, and have a new shindy piston and rings I need some help identifying which ring is the top ring. Is the black ring with the chamfer for the top ring?

I believe the tick I was hearing was the chain rubbing the housing(See pictures). The boot where the stator wiring harness enters the case is cracked. Anyone have any recommendations on how seal this up?

Shadetree and Fishfiles have Great eyes ring end gap was out of spec, so I'm sending the jug off to get bored out and a new piston. I have alittle play in the top of the rod where the wristpin slides in so I will send the crankshaft off to Mr. Crankshaft. I have the cases split and I am in the process of cleaning everything. Question should I plan on replacing all of the bearings in the lower end? Or are there some that should be replaced over others? None of the bearings in the bottom end really look bad. Is anyone aware of a source for a replacement transmission needle bearing?

The rod does not look too good. Is the rod supposed to be two different colors like that? Looks like I will need to go ahead with reboring the cylinder, replacing the piston, and replace the crankshaft assy. Any tips on sourcing another crankshaft assy? Are there any other parts I should look at replacing? Is it best to remove the engine to replace the crankshaft?

I've got the head and rocker cover off. Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. Are the indentions on the pistons where the valves once struck the piston? How does the cylinder look? The motor did not smoke prior to me tearing it down. Should I send this off to G&H to bore out and get a piston replacement or wait tell later? I would like to defer the expense if possible, this projects already gone alittle over budget;) If the cylinder needs boring, I am definetly going to make sure the rod is good fist.

1995 TRX300 4x4 On my way to replace the timing chain, I notice the centrifugal clutch looks burnt up. Please see the pictures. I believe I should replace the primary clutch drum and weights. I believe I will take my chances with a used drum and weights off ebay because i believe the oem drum is no longer available. What would cause the primary clutch to burn up like this? Could it be caused by the previous owner running the wrong type of oil? Also the secondary clutches appear to have plenty of material left however they appear to be discolored. Should I replace the secondary clutches based on the discoloration?

Thanks SlammedRanger! I will give Rocky Mtn ATV a shot.

1995 TRX300 4x4 On my way to replace the timing chain, I notice the centrifugal clutch looks alittle odd. Please see the pictures. Should I replace the centrigugal clutches. The clutch seems to be working fine. The clutch passes the spin test when I turn it by hand and there does not appear to be deep grooves in the housing. Also the secondary clutch stake on nut does not have any more material left to act as a stake, would it be real bad to reuse the nut with a little lock tite, instead of buying a new nut? I don't mind buying a new nut but it just seems like partzilla takes Foooooorever to ship parts these days!

If I wanted to check the shape of the cylinder and rod clearance should I pull the engine out? Or can I do that while it is still in the frame?

I checked the operation of the chain tensioner and it appears to be working properly.

I noticed a slight ticking noise yesterday while in neutral. I only hear the ticking when I hit the throttle about 1/4". It sounds like the noise is coming from the right side of the atv around the oil line running to the top end. I adjusted the valves but the ticking continues, next I pulled the chain tensioner off. Pic below is after I pulled the tensioner out and reinserted it by hand, would the lack of gap here indicate that I need to replace the timing chain? How do you recommend I go about resolving this issue? Should I pull the whole motor or just pull the top end off? Any and all advice is much appreciated.

Is there any need to use glue?

I have a trx300 that I am replacing the grips on. I am replacing the grips with oem honda original grips. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to install?

I am looking to replace the master cylinder on my Honda 300. The OEM master cylinder is over $150, do you all see any reason why I could not use a master cylinder off of a TRX420 Rancher, these seem to be approximately half the cost?

Yea, i watched three you tube videos on the needle bearing removal, and they did not mention removing the clip on any. Thank you all for the tips. I'd do it differently next time for sure. Fishfiles, do you usually acquire the 250 rearend by itself or as part of a donor bike? What would be a decent price for a 250 rearend?

Here's the outter race.

I was able to get the clip out and get bearing. Thank you for all the tips. Is the case salvagable? I have a new ring and pinion on order.

The clip is still in there. I have not been able to drive the clip around at all using a small punch, so I am going to try welding to the bearing again to turn the bearing until I can access the end of the clip for extraction.

Thank you all for the help. As you can see from the pictures my first swing at the needle bearing removal was a miss....my welds broke. Wilson the picture above helps alot thank you!

Do you recommend replacing the ring and pinion with the one shown below in the link? Would I be able to reuse the old shims on the new ring and pinion? http://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/1988-2000-honda-trx300fw-differential-rear-ring-pinion-gear-set-free-u-s-shipping/

Please see the attached pictures of my pinion wear. Is this wear ok? It also looks like the pinion end of the pinion has dug some material 1/16" out of the case on the bottom of the needle bearing. The teeth on the pinion and ring gear look ok?