Wolf

I was procrastinating to see if I actually had spark or not; primarily because I had no next step idea or plan should I fail again. So today I finally verified that indeed we have spark! One, one frigging wire was the problem after all! Looking at the B11 connector all looked OK until you did a continuity test which failed. The most helpful diagram was not the wiring diagram ( which is virtually impossible to read on a computer screen) but a diagram in the "fuel" section in Chapter 6 page 8 that listed 19 of the 33 "B" pins on the P33 grey CDI connector. I tried to copy that page but was not able too. It identified the pin number and its function. B11 is identified as "ignition" . Stuffing the G/Y back into the connector is not a permanent fix. I am looking to buy the P33 Sumitomo connector to learn how to take it appart. There is no on line video of that specific connector. I tested each of the 33 pins for volatge first, then resitance on the remaing pins and finally ground on the pins with no volatge or resistance. This list is not complete I am sure BUT pins 1,19, 21 and 33 had battery voltage, pins 10,13 22 has resitance. I never got any good other readinds on the remaining pins. I assume they get input from various sensors when the engine is running. Well now on to putting everything cack where it belongs. I hope some of my post will be of help to others. wolf

I pushed the g/y wire into the grey connecter by about 4mm and low and behold I got continuity back to the coil area of that wire. So this is a problem. How to fix it permanently is the next project. Tracking down unconnected wires is quite a challenge and really time consuming. I am hopeful that this find will solve my no spark issue. Wolf

Do any of you know how to open the grey P33 ECU connector apart to be able to inspect and repalce a pion? wolf

Some news! I mapped out all the individual 33 pins on the PCM/ECM ( CDI if you prefer) and pin #11 is a G/Y wire that goes to the coil and subsequently to the spark plug. I get an open circut on that wire. I am not very good at electric work. I test that with the ignition off as well as ignition on. There is 12V current on that wire at the coil. Several other pins have current ie.) #1, #19, #21 and #33. I cannot find out if #11 should have 12V or not. I do not see a way to take apart the grey CDI plug. Is there a safe way to run a jumper wire and see if it solves my problem?

The service manual does have troubleshooting but it is a bit arcane and uses a lot of abreviations that a non-professional has to learn. My issue is no spark and I have examined and ruled out so far the coil, stator, pickup (CKP if you prefer), kill switch, and bank angle sensor, P33 connector (multiple pins). I am looking for the TP/MAP sensorand have not yet found it. I will remove the air box for a better view of the top of the engine. Thanks for your interest. wolf

Thank you Fishfiles. I am in the process of doing that. wolf

So let me add some more confusion here. I retested the volatge to the coil primary. Previously I always got battery voltage to the 2 wires. NOW I GET NOTHING. The only thing I have done is yank the wireing harness around to get at various connections. I am thinking I may have a short in the harness. wolf

Apologies! I found a motorcycle video that does resistance testing . You test across each yellow terminal ( 1to 2, 1to 3 , 2to3 etc) and I get 0.7ohm . That is in spec 0.1 to 1 ohm..I rechecked the terminal to ground and there was no short. So mesuring wise the stator "tests" good. Someone prior to me has been in the stator and my stator may not be OEM. You always see the warnings "don't get a foreing made part it will screw thisngs up for you." I remain frustrated and confused. wolf

So I got a new peak voltage tester and got nothing at the saprk plug ( no surpise there) got battery voltage at the + (GRN/Yellow wire) at the ignition coil that dropped to 9V while cranking the engine. AT the 33P Grey CDI box connector on temianl B23 & B12 got 4.4V consistently and got 4.6 V at the 5P altenator connection (Blue/yellow and Green wires) The spec is >0.7 V. So that is good. There is a line in the manual to check the resistance of the stator yellow wires "Measure the resistance between yellow wire terminals of the altenator side connector. 0.1 to 1 ohm at 68 degrees F)" I do not under stand that. I see everyone checking the stator for continuity but no info on resistance testin or how you do it. What is a "side connector"? Thanks for any help. wolf

I got busy but did the jumper today and no luck . Still no spark. My peak voltage tester died. I have ordered anothe one and will run through that diagnostic again when the new one arrives. wolf

I see my connector wires are not the same color as your photo. I have (in order) red black and green. I already blew one 10amp fuse with an ill placed jumper and want to be sure to place the jumper correctly. Is your guess the jumper goes between the red and the green? wolf

Thank you. I will try to jumper it tomorrow. Wolf

There is one more safety "switch" on this ATV . The bank angle sensor. If the ATV tips >70 degrees the ignition turns off. I removed the sensor and get > 3volts when the sensor is upright. It is supposed to be 0volts or <0.1 volts. When I tip the sensor I get the expected 12v ( battery voltage). I have ordered a used senor. More later. wolf

So I got a DVA adapter to test "peak" voltage The stator Pikup coil reading was supposed to be > 0,7 V . I got 2.3v. So I gues the pick up coil is OK. The volatge on the "hot" primary coil lead reads the battery voltage 12V+ BUT when I crank the engine instaed of get >100Volts it drops to 9.2 volts. . So something is not right there. I will look on Utube to see what I should do next. PS the entire rear end is toast and I am rplacing that as well. wolf

I saw a you tube video that shows the DVA circuit. A diode, resistor and capacitor. They sell for $30 on ebay. I may inquiry if a Honda tech locally would do the testing for a fee. The prior owner opened the stator case it is possible that the pickup coil gap is wrong, too wide so the signal to fire never gets to the cdi. The peak meter test should detect that. Stay posted. Wolf

The wires going to the coil are green/yellow and black/brown stripe. The g/y is hot with 12 volts plus with ignition on. The blk wire is a ground that tested good to ground. Wolf

I have read that in the FOREMAN that it may play a role but not in the RANCHER. I just tested the voltage regulator and it tests OK. So that is not the issue. Thanks for the reply. wolf

I am at my wits end trying to get spark on this Rancher that I bought used. The spark plug is new. All the fuses are good. Diodes tested are good. The safety swich has been replaced. The coil test good but I replaced it as well just to be sure. The CDI unit is OEM new. The stator tests good. The pick up coil tests good. I do not have a "peak voltage " tester but may need to get one. If the gap on the pick up is too wide I can see that as a problem. I have not messed with the votage regulator as that should not be involved. I hope that is correect. All the grounds test good. So what am I missing? HELP! wolf