Patrik

Thanks for the info, it’s a few things to power up for the condenser! 
 

New relays are ordered and from now on there will only be oem.

 

have a fantastic weekend guys!

Its fixed, I'm an idiot, I had connected the brake switch into the RB/R going into the small rectifier connector. Sorry for taking up your time but I appreciate all support. I thing these 2 connectors are the only ones with the exact same size 😀

.From main fuse R/BB goes thru the brake switch to R, can a bad brake switch be the problem? Can I jump R/B & R at the brake switch to test?

I have 12,5V on all red wires on the 14p connector to the relay harness

The 7 V I have on the red wire at ignition key is coming from the condenser, when that one is unplugged I get 0V 

In the plug to the condenser I get around 5v. 

the R & RB is going to the small rectifier and there I have 0V. 
 

Not sure what you mean with diode, the only diode I have there is taped in to the harness, shall I take off the tejp?

Resistance between red & black are 5 ohms

I have now checked continuity from main fuse to red wire on key switch, it goes from R/B on main fuse thru the 14p connector ( the one that goes to the 2 relays). Continuity is OK

I measured the voltage at the key switch and now R/BL shows 12,5v, the red shows 7,5v, power disappear somewhere. I have ordered new OEM relays just to be able to exclude them.

 

Battery is good, I have 2 new ones and tested both with a winch  

Appreciate the support and yes its a bit fun:-)

 

Trying to find the correct wiring diagram, so if any one have or find the diagram with 2 separate relays I would appreciate it! TRX 420 2008 FM with pull start.

Since I don't have power in the red wire to key ignition and its connected to a few things along the way I have some searching to do!

Maybe a stupid question but where does the power goes from R/B to R? The blue circle in the picture 

Thanks for your input, I really appreciate all possible help!

All plastics are taken off so its easy to reach all parts. I have already tested the continuity in the key switch and it tested ok but I will do it one more time just to double check. 

The ignition circuit diagram is quite simple and that's why this is so frustrating. 

 

If I have power to the key switch and the switch is ok, is it something else that could cut power to ignition fuse? It doesn´t look that way in the diagram. Lets say that the engine stop relay is bad, wouldnt I still have power to the ignition fuse?

 

Both the PCM/ECM & bank angle sensor is new OEM parts 

 

I live in Sweden so I assume we got the same version as in Canada. I bought this atv as a project a couple of months ago. Same thing with the old relays but don’t know if they are oem but I assume they are.

I have the model with pull start so I have 2, 

#15 on the picture

Engine stop relay & fuel pump relay are after market or do you have the solenoid in mind? The solenoid was on the bike when I bought it so I don't now if its OEM but the solenoid shouldn't effect the ignition power as long as you don't push the start button?

I have checked continuity in the key switch as well and it looks good, since head lights are working I assume I have power to the switch. Its odd that power to ignition fuse is constant after just touching the top of the fuse with a hot wire. It feels more like its a signal that is cutting power. The only thing that is new AM is the fuel pump & engine stop relays, I have switched them but could both of them be bad right out the box?

Thanks for your input! 

I have no power coming to the ignition fuse, that is tested. Checked continuity from key switch to ignition fuse and there are continuity when battery is disconnected. 
 

wire harness, ecu, relays and bank angle sensor is brand new. 

Hi

I really need your help with this odd electric issue. I have spent a lot of time searching for similar problem without success.

 

When I turn the key, front light and display back light works fine, no data on the display and no noise from fuelpump.

I have 12v on all fuses except ignition fuse, if I just quickly connect a wire direct from battery + to the top of the ignition fuse the display work as normal and I hear the buzzing sound from fuelpump. Just by quickly touching  the top of the ignition fuse with the hot wire, power comes on and stays on. When this is done I can start and everything works perfect. 
 

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!