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Patrik

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    Sweden
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  1. Thanks for the info, it’s a few things to power up for the condenser! New relays are ordered and from now on there will only be oem. have a fantastic weekend guys!
  2. Its fixed, I'm an idiot, I had connected the brake switch into the RB/R going into the small rectifier connector. Sorry for taking up your time but I appreciate all support. I thing these 2 connectors are the only ones with the exact same size 😀
  3. .From main fuse R/BB goes thru the brake switch to R, can a bad brake switch be the problem? Can I jump R/B & R at the brake switch to test?
  4. I have 12,5V on all red wires on the 14p connector to the relay harness
  5. The 7 V I have on the red wire at ignition key is coming from the condenser, when that one is unplugged I get 0V
  6. In the plug to the condenser I get around 5v. the R & RB is going to the small rectifier and there I have 0V. Not sure what you mean with diode, the only diode I have there is taped in to the harness, shall I take off the tejp?
  7. Resistance between red & black are 5 ohms
  8. I have now checked continuity from main fuse to red wire on key switch, it goes from R/B on main fuse thru the 14p connector ( the one that goes to the 2 relays). Continuity is OK I measured the voltage at the key switch and now R/BL shows 12,5v, the red shows 7,5v, power disappear somewhere. I have ordered new OEM relays just to be able to exclude them. Battery is good, I have 2 new ones and tested both with a winch
  9. Appreciate the support and yes its a bit fun:-) Trying to find the correct wiring diagram, so if any one have or find the diagram with 2 separate relays I would appreciate it! TRX 420 2008 FM with pull start.
  10. Since I don't have power in the red wire to key ignition and its connected to a few things along the way I have some searching to do!
  11. Maybe a stupid question but where does the power goes from R/B to R? The blue circle in the picture
  12. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate all possible help! All plastics are taken off so its easy to reach all parts. I have already tested the continuity in the key switch and it tested ok but I will do it one more time just to double check. The ignition circuit diagram is quite simple and that's why this is so frustrating. If I have power to the key switch and the switch is ok, is it something else that could cut power to ignition fuse? It doesn´t look that way in the diagram. Lets say that the engine stop relay is bad, wouldnt I still have power to the ignition fuse? Both the PCM/ECM & bank angle sensor is new OEM parts
  13. I live in Sweden so I assume we got the same version as in Canada. I bought this atv as a project a couple of months ago. Same thing with the old relays but don’t know if they are oem but I assume they are.
  14. I have the model with pull start so I have 2, #15 on the picture
  15. Engine stop relay & fuel pump relay are after market or do you have the solenoid in mind? The solenoid was on the bike when I bought it so I don't now if its OEM but the solenoid shouldn't effect the ignition power as long as you don't push the start button?
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