You make it I break it

2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Let me try and guess what is going on here , the battery is either dead , not in the bike ,  not hooked up , or the starter button doesn't work ,  the tie strap is holding the kill switch in the right position to run and the tie strap is really holding the starter button in , but really isn't doing anything 

Nope brand new battery zip tie isn't touching the kill switch the button is held down when it's not the neutral light comes on and the bike looses spark 

21 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

 

Wow , we need to make a sticky for the " kick starting it with the button zip-tied down " trick !!!!   ---  Hey You' , you must be joking , eh ! You really done that  

That I did

I got it to run I've just been kickstarting it with the button ziptied down 

Just now, shadetree said:

what is tenth digit on vin number ?, from left to right, read over, let me know what the tenth digit is ?.

Can't look right now I'm out of town tell ya tomorrow 

No I bought the cdi brand new for that year it seemed weird so I put it on another bike and it started first kick 

Just now, shadetree said:

you need to find out where you got the c.d.i from ??

 

I tested if on a different bike

Just now, shadetree said:

question: does it spark one time, then stops ?

No multiple 15 20

2 minutes ago, shadetree said:

where did you buy the c.d.i. from ???.

Can't remember 

Just now, shadetree said:

kill switch centered ?.

Yep

8 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Do you have a battery in place?

Also, did you get a cheap china CDI off ebay or a actual Honda replacement CDi

I got an actual cdi and it's a brand new battery 

6 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Do you have good, fully charged battery in the machine even though you are not using electric start?

Its is really bad to run, or try to run these without a good battery in place- you will burn up the stator and voltage regulator and so on...

If you have no battery, your neutral light will not come on, and the reason it lights up when kicking is the charging voltage you are creating when

you kick the engine over is lighting it up and may also be taking voltage away from your ignition/spark circuit

Also- just so you know, the 96 Fourtrax 4x4 had defective CDI that year and the common symptom was to not spark when you held the starter button down and then it would spark as oon as you let of the starter button and engine was still rotating

Also if you lose spark, you can try tapping on the CDi and it will sometimes bring you spark back, means you need to replace CDI or cook it in the oven at 450 for 10 mins

to reflow broken solder joints on circuit board sometimes works. Sounds hokey, but I have few that I did years ago and they are still going strong

Let us know how its going

 

I just replaced the cdi and it does the same thing even when it is on a 40 amp charger it didn't have any spark before I got the new cdi

Hey y'all I have a 1996 Honda trx300a fourtrax and my electric start is broken at the moment so until I fix that I have been just kicking it while I've been working on it so now for the actual problem the neutral light doesn't come on when I turn the key but it does after each kick when the light isn't on I have spark but the second it comes on my spark is gone HELP

My puller isn't even close to being long enough to do that 

23 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

So the cam pin (#7 in that schematic) is stuck?  You might have to soak/heat it and try working it back and forth.

The breaks are stuck on like when you pull the handle 

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

See number 25 here?

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1996/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/rear-brake

 

There's a rubber seal/oring that goes on the axle after you slide the drum on.  On a lot of these you can't even see it anymore without really looking because of dirt/grime, and it will work its way up in there.  You have to get a pick and get that out of there before you can get the drum off. 

 

Even once you get that out of there, the drum might be rusted to the axle splines.

Oh it's a little more then that I just found out that the breaks are stuck on

7 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Sometimes them brake drums can get stuck real good 

How did you manage to do that 

Those things are solid 

7 hours ago, Chevymec said:

I had to break mine off when a big hammer.

I know  but mine isn't even rusty 

50 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 Did you get the O ring out before you started trying to pull the drum off?

Its stuck

I have a 1996 trx300a Fourtrax and the rear drum is frozen to the axle and the breaks are stuck on I've tried everything to get it off 

Just now, SlammedRanger said:

Take the wire off the neutral safety switch. Should just be one wire. I cant tell you with 100% certainty where it is on a utility style quad. But all the sport quads i have worked on it was right behind the foot shift lever. Take that wire and ground it anywhere. A bolt. Any clean metal. Anything. Green light should come on and it should crank.

Ok I'll give it a shot I have to do a couple other things like unfreezing the back brakes but when I'm done tomorrow I will find the wire and test it

4 hours ago, SlammedRanger said:

If the neutral light isnt on its not gunna crank with the start switch period. If you ground the wire to the neutral safety switch it should turn the green light on and turn over with the start button. If it does your neutral safety switch is at fault. If it doesnt still then you have a start switch issue or wiring issue somewhere.

How would I do that

4 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Two solenoids ? hmmm  , what's up with that ---like to see a pic of that 

No I tried 2 different solenoids

Yeah it has power the light just isn't on anyone know how to fix this 

Sorry I meant 2wd I have 2 solenoids neither work the neutral light doesn't come on