shrek18

For all.that you did I was glad I could help man. Not a problem at all !

So the long awaited update is here. The Foreman is out of my shop and back on the farm. Thanks to the help of ol Mr RTV himself aka Shade tree 🤣, the machine is FIXED!!! It was a process and I had all but given up but Shade talked me off the ledge. I ended up taking that rear engine cover off and replaced the Ignition spark generator or the pick up coil inside the case. That was the part keeping us from getting spark. I did keep the CDI/ ICM I replaced on along with the new voltage regulator and coil. After some issues with the neutral switch and having to remove and install the rear cover (a total of 5 times...)🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I got the unit back together today and ran it. I let it idle for 10 min which it couldn't do prior and took it for a 1 mile ride with no issues. Im happy to say its all fixed up and its back to pushing feed for dairy cows. I want to say as a newbie to the site here, it was quite refreshing to talk to people who knew their stuff and pointed me in the right direction. I definitely look forward to being a member here and I greatly appreciate the help from Shade and the others!! Thanks again

Also the pulse generator Allen's are tight as well

So all 6 Allen's are tight. They didn't move with my battery impact. I do not see a key anywhere tho. I see the groove for it, but it looks like it spun

Which gouges ?

I was off on my date. March 8th I had it in for a service and I pressure washed it. First time it's been washed since 2021. I changed the oil after the wash.. I can't disagree that it looks milky but ill wager everything you see in this picture it hasn't been sunk from the 8th until it arrived in my shop a week ago... the farm is the highest point in out county and its been mighty dry around here. Plus that's a long way down to anywhere with it stuck in first gear lol

I will check those Allen's when I get home. I will look at that key as well. When I go to put the unit back together I will ask you again about the alignment. I'm not to sure I follow but once I look at the engine it may make more sense

Lol if you have the time you can watch the camera footage from the farm. The only water it sees is the rain or snow driving from barn to barn. I changed the oil in February. It looks like this every time I change it. A minimum of 2 times a year. It had looked like this since I started maintaining it in 2014

As far as the shifting goes, that's a problem for another day. It went to the dealer and they had it for 6 weeks and their answer was changing the pushbutton cluster on the bars and telling us it has a bad shift fork and that's why it jumps out of gear when you give it gas in 2nd. I don't recall exactly how much but I think it was $1100-$1200 they charged him for repairing nothing and saying parts weren't available. That's why they just run it in 1st since they have to go slow to push feed anyway.

This one is a ES. When I ohm it out it starts about 20 ohms and climbs up to 40 before my meter kicks over to OL.

The shift fork is messed up in this unit and it won't go into 2nd gear so it lives its life in 1st gear almost permanently. The farmers daughter runs it hard and the rpms are high all the time. It used to sit outside but now they keep it inside but not heated

I agree. It's always this milky and they don't wash anything on the farm lol. I will ohm it shortly but I didn't see anything listed for a value in the manual. Is the generator sitting in an oil bath normal then?

And honda oil and filter before anyone asks

Negative. I agree with the milkiness. This atv lives its life pushing up feed for dairy cows 3 times a day. It's on hard surface at all times. I just changed oil and filter less than 1 month ago

I've never been inside of one these engines but the rotor sitting in oil seems a bit strange. Regardless, it's off. Would it be beneficial to clean the alternator assembly up or just wipe it off and reinstall it ?

Looking at the service manual, that spark generator looks like a bit of a pain to change... possibly pull the motor and then I'll need a special fly wheel holder it looks like? Has anyone ever done that job?

So as I sit here and ponder things, I can't help but wonder if the ICM/CDI. Box is damaged from having the wrong regulator installed first? I know things can be junk new in the package but it just seems odd. Also having tapped on it then getting it to spark makes me wonder if it's worth swapping it out again. I contacted RMATV and they are having their tech dept reach out to trouble shoot that part before they send a new one out. I'm almost ready to throw in thr towel

I went ahead and checked the pins again and they looked OK bit I shaped them a bitbfor better contact. The ign fuse is good lol. I also took my power probe and grounded the grn/WHT out of the ICM and it made no difference.

Part # 30410-HN0-A01

It had a good ground last night. The pins all looked fine and undamaged

So the oven trick didn't work. And tapping on the new one doesn't do anything either. I could never actually see spark at the plug only in my tester. I'm still wondering if it's the ignition pulse generator since the voltage values were so low. EVERYTHING that's been bought for this with the exception of the coil. Is OEM Honda. Not saying that there's never been a new electronic part bad out of the box but they were sealed when I received them.

Well the new one would only flash when I hit it. The old one didn't flash at all. Stand by, I'm getting my apron and chefs hat on

So I did this test and the old CDI did nothing while tapping it. The new one would have a weak flash at first crank then as I tapped it I could get it to flash for 1 or 2 times. Off to the oven I go !

So I'm not seeing a CDI anywhere. On the wire diagram I only see a ignition control module..? On the ignition schematic it says ICM but in the main wiring diagram it says CDI color coded wires match up so I'm guessing the terms are fluid. Side note I did just try tapping the new icm while crank and it flashed on my spark tester!

So at this point I'm torn. After checking for peak voltage at the coil and only getting 5v and 100v min, then at the ICM plug i had .52v with a min of .7 and then at the 5p generator plug I had .75v with 0.7 v min. I'm just barely at the bottom threshold at the generator plug. I'm having a hard time thinking it's a bad wire in the harness but I'm open to ideas... what's your thoughts?