Liam Nixon

That would be appreciated, I am leaving for a week and wanted to being the bike, just gonna have to live with it acting like this in the meantime I guess, I'll try to go over it when I get back, just for a point of reference, do you know of any points on the wiring harness where it could easily have shorted out or anything? Or any component such as the change switch that could be causing it? And yes I'd also like to test the speedo due to the fact it's always been inaccurate on things such as the odo and time

Sorry I thought I mentioned I did that, yes, I unplugged it and tried to ground it to the same result I got with the gear switch, shows a "1" when 1st us grounded, and "--" in everything else, and still will start when nuetral is grounded

I tried to write something along with the pictures but it didn't work for some reason, I took pictures in neutral, reverse, 1st, 5th, when I try to start in gear, and when I try to start in neutral, when I try to start in gear is the only time the neutral light disappears, it doesn't start if the gear position switch is unplugged or its in gear, which tells me the gear position seems to be working, am I right? And the "1" that appears is only when I'm in gears 1-4, no other time. It disappears in rev, neutral, and 5th, I will try testing the continuity again however it was only giving me continuity in the specific colour corrosponding to each gear

Okay, I have continuity only where the circles are on the diagram, I have no continuity anywhere else, only when it is specifically in the correct gear such as grey only has continuity in reverse, and LB only has continuity in 5th, nowhere else. If I understand what your saying correctly it shouldn't be that way?

Okay, I have continuity only where the circles are on the diagram, I have no continuity anywhere else, only when it is specifically in the correct gear such as grey only has continuity in reverse, and LB only has continuity in 5th, nowhere else. If I understand what your saying correctly it shouldn't be that way?

Also yes, it's a 4 prong white connection, 1998

Upon testing it I have the continuity in the correct places, grey has continuity in reverse, yadda yadda, however I was confused by the diagram whether it meant I should have continuity in all colours in reverse, like when the line goes between the circles on the diagram, or I should only have continuity specifically when I'm in that gear indicated by where the circle on the diagram is, either way I'm getting continuity where I think I should, and when the gear position switch is plugged in and put in neutral, the green dash light is shining more than the red, and vice versa when in reverse, and I can still start it when in neutral with the starter, so the system still does know what gear it's in, is this a speedometer unit failure? Like would that explain why I lost both gear position and speed at the same time basically?

Also wanted to say yes, I tested the shift motor and it works great

Sorry for the hiatus, things have been busy, anyways yeah so I installed the gear position switch today, put it all back together, and still nothing, the gears still say -- when in rev, neutral, or 5th, the only time it's show any numbers is when it's in 1st-4th and it only says 1st while in those gears, is there something I have to reset to try and get it to work? Or should I just hang my head and accept that I can't see what gear the bike is in, functionality hasn't been affected, but I still would like to see what gear I'm in if at all possible, any suggestions?

I mounted it underneath the front plastic just below the grey plastic section, and it's the stock carburetor as far as I know That was kind of my thinking too, it is kind of a sketchily done in some areas, I'm going to go over the whole wiring harness and also get a rebuild kit for that carburetor

I'll post some pics later today, but yes I wired her up to the battery and not the accessory socket, and it is a fused linkage too yes which is wired to the key as not to operate without the bike being on

I'm sorry I should've specified a bit clearer, I meant when I take the fuel line off and try to crank it over the pump is pumping plenty of fuel, not that the carb itself is leaking any, and it was working fine, like perfectly, until I wired up my winch, I'd there anything that could be affected by doing that?

The pro-cycle relay is an OEM part, and the fuel pump was replaced 2 weeks ago with an OEM pump, when it's off the carb and I try to start the bike it just pours gas out like it's life depends on it so there's no problem there, but as soon as I try to get moving in gear it just starts sputtering. Okay but what about another OEM crab from a different bike? Buddy told me that may work with some negotiation, but I'm hesitant, what's the best way to attack it?

I'm gonna replace the carb, I'm having difficulty finding a cheap replacement, where would be good place to order from?

After further investigation today the left rear bearing is absolutely toast, I am guessing it went bad long ago and then the wobble wore out the axle, but I slid the able out and quite a few ball bearings fell out so that and the axle need to get replaced at the very least, if not more.

So I should get a straight axle, the pinion and pinion conversion gear, and bearings basically all around? Is that essentially what should be done? Man, that won't be cheap.

Hey, I had my rear differential started to clunk recently when turning sharply or going from forward to reverse, so after taking the right hub of and pulling it left as much as I could I could see the actual straight axle was worn down on the splines, I'm wondering if I should rebuild the diff or just replace the straight axle, when I pulled it through what looks like the front part of a bearing and 2 ball hearing fell out so I'm gonna have to open it up, but what is the the right kit for the job? it's a 98 with original straight axle and diff so should it be done?

So after investigation the pump and everything function, but the actual carb isn't letting it rev past a certain point or it starts sputtering, gonna investigate further when I can I guess

Sorry I mean I wired a winch to the bike, it's not attached to the pump at all sorry if I confused you

It's a new oem pump and a brand new relay from pro-cycle so it kinda confused me that it started acting up

So while I've been waiting on parts to fix my 450 foreman I started to do a bit of work an old 350 my neighbour owned, I had to replace the fuel pump and the new one worked fine and dandy for a while, I wired in a which to it and lo and behold now the fuel pump isn't operating correctly, at first it wouldn't do anything, then it started to marginally work, like it would pump some fuel every so often, basically just enough to get it to idle, I'm wondering if the wiring is at fault or did the new pump burn out, any response is appreciated

Sounds like a plan! Ordered the switch and it should be here in a few days, also ordered the clutch adjustment thingy because mine is seized and stripped

So I'm talking to a guy right now who has a gear position switch, a change control switch, and a speedometer unit, but I'm unsure if I should just purchase the original gear position switch that I needed or to get those parts that I'm unsure about, what would you guys do? I just want to spend the minimum amount possible, is there a way to test the change control unit without the gear position switch working?

Thanks for telling me about this site, and yeah my switch isn't reading right so I'm going to replace than and then if all else fails it only leaves the change control unit, so I'd either replace that or get the kit mentioned by @Fishfiles, I'd like to convert it to footshift but like @jeepwm69 mentioned here: They have different gears so it may not be the best idea, but nonetheless it's still an option if nothing else works, basically right now I'm gonna replace the gear position switch and then see what that does for me, if that doesn't work I'll either buy that conversion or order a change control unit, they're both roughly the same price but the conversion is a sure-fire solution, at the end of the day I just want to get the ES working, and see what gear I'm in and my speed, easier said than done right? And yeah jeep up here in Canada everything is expensive, the dollar is crap and current events aren't helping 😬

Haha that's about right, didn't like the taxes so you turned the harbour to tea, all went from there haha And yeah just looked and doesn't seem that bad, so I'll get that done, change the gear position switch just so I can tell what gear I is in and then try to figure the speedometer I guess 🤷‍♂️