BoCephas

Yeah 2-1/4 to 2-12. Will do like you say

 

Finally got the carb installed. Started easy and great idle. Let it warm up good and  took a ride. Lousy acceleration, but never died out. Runs smooth if you ease the throttle up. Thinking maybe too lean so when it cooled I backed pilot screw out 1/4 turn .  (I wonder if anyone ever thanked the Keihin carb folks for placing the pilot screw on the bottom so you can burn your hand in 3 places?)

The old back was done for the day, so will try it tomorrow and see if I helped it any

 

 

 

the shindy gasket was a quarter inch too big both directions

thanks for the info.! as for the carb kit, I only needed the bowl gasket from it. The rest of the kit was shindy. The shindy gasket did not fit,

only place I could get a kit today only had the allballs...

To all concerned:  here's an update on my carb situation. Got the carbs from fishfiles and a can of cleaner and an allballs carb kit.

Everything cleaned up real good (looks new!), got carb spray thru all ports, blew air thru all ports. Installed new float, ( I had bought one before the carbs came in, so I still have a spare!) Removed towel from cylinder and inspected o-ring surface where boot attaches. What I found was, the surface had been coated with permatex (hardening type).

So I question this.  Why?  Did the previous owner see that the o-ring was flat, and instead of replacing it, decided to seal with permatex?

(Not just the o-ring sealing surface, but the whole flange) Or did he not even see the o-ring in the boot, but decided permatex would seal since there he had no gasket? REMEMBER THIS IS LIKELY THE SAME INDIVIDUAL who peened the main jet in the bore, and rounded off the screw heads on the slide valve, so the jet needle could not be replaced , then went to work with a grinder !

I spent considerable time removing the dried-on permatex while not damaging the sealing surface. Lots of carb cleaner and a toohbrush 

finally got it cleaned up. I definitely need to build a raised platform to put my vehicles on so I don't spend so much time bending over.

The old back is sore tonight.

Tomorrow I will install (hopefully) the carb and gas tank, with a filter, and see what happens.

This brings up another question. The two 6mm bolts that mount the boot to the cylinder; they appeared to have thread-lock on them.

Is this necessary?  My Clymer manual says 7-10 foot pounds torque. My wrench doesn't go that low. Years ago I found out when you

turn your wrench below the lowest setting, you cannot rely on any accuracy. Guess I'll stop tightening right before I strip it out !!

Thanks for your patience in reading this long post and for all the interest and comments..hoping for some answers...

Ok Fishfiles I'll be looking for it!

Think I messed up my last post. Goober mentioned using deep creep, I usually just spray with carb cleaner and scrub, but I’ll head to Napa and see what they have. Appreciate you getting them coming this way

Look good to me ! 
 

Look good to me ! 
 

Thanks wilson

Sorry, meant goober...

Gopher thanks for the layout idea. I use something similar. Never heard of deep creep. Will have to look into that

No idea how to send a private message. ...

Sure do

Ok sounds good. Thanks for the information. I guess dealers only have certain sources they buy from? By the way, I got the oring for the boot, now for the float.   
By the way, how can I get those two carbs from you ?

Getting ready to put carb back together and managed to drop the float. Needless to say, it broke. None of the local dealers have one, and only one thinks he can order. Fishfiles, do those 2 carbs you have,have floats?

Sorry I wasn’t clear. I have never had a noticeable, to me anyway, change in rpm when spraying. But seeing this oring now, and how I didn’t have a real tight fit from carb to boot, I am sure it was sucking air. That boot is too thick to squeeze down unless you have a good fit to begin with. That’s why I was thinking I just didn’t get

The spray where it needed to be? Anyway I’m going thru the carb today, and when I get the new oring  I plan on putting the boot on the carb and clamp it tight before installing, if possible, to eliminate that problem. 

Guys I sure appreciate all this good info. I will take pictures of all these posts and someday write it all down. Amazing how much you can find out if you just contact the right people! 
I pulled the carb today and bit the bullet and removed the boot. Just knew one of the bolts would snap off. Had good luck tho. The o-ring is flattened out to the point there is basically no seal there. Local dealer will have me one next Tuesday. 
With it all off the machine I can shove the boot on all the way. I didn’t realize the tab on the boot meets up with the boss on the carb. There was no way I could get the carb that far into the boot, with the boot still on the cylinder. Thinking that if I install 

the carb with the boot on it correctly, it will be squared up and with the new ring it should stop that problem. What bothers me is when spraying around the connection before i didn’t have any change in rpm. Maybe I just didn’t spray long enough or accurate enough? If you would, hold those carbs for me, and when I get this back running, if I do, we can discuss the logistics of it .

You just gave me more info in two paragraphs than all the reading and talking with two dealers have done. To be fair, Maybe the ones I talked with weren’t all that familiar with the older models. Thanks for the information. Trying to learn all I can on this old 250. I enjoy riding it as much or more than my 2011 420. It’s in really good shape and I hope to keep it running. 
You may be thinking of another persons carb. My original carb had the beat up main nozzle (see pix from yesterday’s post) and the jet needle would get hung up and not
allow the throttle slide to fully close.

 I haven’t messed with the boot because it looks ok, and not knowing the availability 

I am hesitant to take it off. I didn’t know there is a o-ring in the boot. Maybe it’s rolled up and not allowing the seal to take place.? 
Free day tomorrow so I will pull the carb and check it out. 
Thanks for the info and the help. Next time I visit my friend in Amite maybe we can meet. (We lived in Hahnville for 12 years. 

Well you are more familiar with these carb than I am. Most of my carb experience has been on Quadra jets and dual jets, with an occasional tractor thrown in. 
my original is a QA 09AWAA and my latest one is 09AWAF7,

your two look like mine. Are 86 & 87 the same.?

this little carb is crazy. Now it starts with fast Idle then dies. That’s new.
guess I’ll pull it tomorrow and go thru it , and maybe add a fuel filter.....?
 

Yeah the original 

To fishfiles . This is what I found when I took the original carb apart. That’s the jet that the jet needle goes in. The lip that is supposed to stick up into the bore is beaten flat. Then peened to keep it from moving? That suggests the port was “cleaned up” a bit too much and the jet wouldn’t stay in? That’s what it looks like to me. The carb actually ran good, just could not get the idle down. 

To 87 Iroc : yes the choke is working

See below the reason I replaced the carb to begin with

Yes I do. Appreciate you checking when you feel like it.