GeorgeT

On 6/15/2021 at 3:16 PM, sled_22 said:

You'll have to do a review of those tires after a while. I was tempted to get them but shadey-mcgavin swayed me into getting mudlites.

Nice looking machine.

I will let ya know what I think of them. I have two friends that run the same tires on there's and they like them. 

Back to the vin number deal. You can go to Vincheck.info and find out if the bike is clean or not. I have ran both of mine through it and it tells me all the info on the bike and gives you a clean check are tells if it's stolen. Is there any new updates on your bike. 

I did a service on it, cleaned the carb and adjusted the brakes,  cleaned the water out of the fuel tank and it seems to be a good running little bike.  I have a few parts I need to get for it but not anything that stop us from riding it. 

14 hours ago, Goober said:

This is a 2001 model?

o an FA I’ve never seen one. Thanks for posting a pic. Good looking unit there

Yes it is a 2001 and it's a FA 

Yea I think someone put them Foreman decals on it. But the service manual says Rubicon 500FA 

Well some people here wanted to see my bike after I go the new tires on it and it's now running and everything is working again, So here ya go. 

Well today I did something and I am not sure it was a good move are not. I bought a 2005 Kawasaki Bayou 250. Yea I know it's like a go cart up side my Honda Ruby 500. Got it for what I think was a good price and it's in very good shape. Need a service and the carb needs to be cleaned out. other then that it seem to be ok. I did ride it around the yard for a min to check the gears and rear end on it. But it want stay running at idle have to keep the choke about half way closet to keep it running. No big deal I can handle this. So any of the others here have a Kawasaki and want do you think about it. Good or bad 

On 6/9/2021 at 12:51 PM, Jemmons467 said:

Does the 2000 model have that? I know the 02 and up has a reset to do. I disconnect the battery when I change them out.

My 2001 Foreman has it,. 

Did you perform the Initial Setting Procedure after changing the angle sensor?

On 6/6/2021 at 9:49 AM, Chevymec said:

 

Yep, they gave me a discount when I bought mine!

 

I will say, I am not happy with the way my rear disc works. This is my link from when I replaced mine.

 

So Chevymec what did you end up doing about a return spring on yours 

well this stinks. I was looking at there website and it says they will not work with Factory alum wheels. And mine has factory alum wheels on it. Just my luck. So I guess I am sticking to the old drum and shoe brakes. 

Sounds good Fishfiles that is what I wanted to know before I throw 250 bucks at it. 

Ok now that I got the shifting trouble fixed it's time to start on the rear brakes. My brake drum is rusted to the axle so I know it's going to take some doing to get it off. and I am thinking about changing the Honda shoe set up to a disk brake set up. What do you all think about SuperATV set ups. Any good, junk, Ok, Give me some info on them 

I will as soon as I get them mounted on it. I will take some pic's of the mountains when we go up there one weekend. 

Update. Bike is fixed. The speed sensor did the trick. And I want to say a Big Thanks to Retro for all his help with this. With out him I would have been throwing money up in the air trying to fix this shifting trouble. Once again Retro you are the man. 

Ok I took the battery to work and tested it. Bad battery. 102 CCA on a 200 CCA battery. So i took it back to Advance and talked to the manger of the store and he replaced the battery. I am picking up the Speed sensor from the local Honda shop in the morning so I  will know if that fixes my No speedometer reading. And if it does then the old bike gets a new set of tires next week. 

Hey here is todays update on what I did and checked. I tested the ground on the regulator plug. Its good. I tested the A/c voltage on the three yellow wires at the Regulator plug I have 10.8 volts on all three of the yellow wires with the bike at Idle. Now once you rev the engine up volts go up to around 25-30 v A/C per wire. I tested and made sure the yellow wires at the stator plug was not going to ground. All three tested good. One more thing I did tonight I checked volts on the battery with the bike running. It's showing 14.7 14.8 if you rev the bike it shows 14.2 if I turn on the lights the volts go to 13.5 to 13.7 this is still rev up. So with all this done. I full charged the battery one more time. Started the bike just fine turned it off and started it again. turned it off hit the starter and it would not spin over fast enough to start. battery voltage is now at 6-7 volts. I am thinking Advance don't know what they are doing but they said the battery is good. The guy there said they charged it for one hour and retested it and it show good. This is a 200 amp battery one of there Die hard gold line battery's I think it has died hard for sure. 

Anyways I got the battery on a 2 amp charge I am going to take it to work with me in the morning and test it with our tester and see what the CCA  and volts is on it after the test. 

One more thing. should the Voltage regulator be getting hot when the bike is running. I am thinking yes but not sure. Let me know. 

I took the battery back to Advance auto where I got it. they load tested the battery and and shows good. but it did say to charge it and retest. So they are going to charge it and test it again and see what happens then. I will let ya know what I find out, Battery is only 3 weeks old so they are going to give me a battery if it's bad. 

Now the voltage reg is three weeks old too. Will Honda replace it if it's bad ?????? 

Man the more I do the more I find. Ok I went to the shop and tried to start the bike today. Well the dang battery is dead. (HMMM now what). Ok so I charged the battery on a 2amp charger. took about 10 mins for it charge up. Weird seem to fast for 2 amp. Anyways Put the battery back in started the bike. Shut it down pulled the ground off the battery tested for a draw. None not even a small amount. So I am messing around in the shop and after about 30 mins I tried to start it again. No luck battery weak. put a volt meter on the battery hit the starter I got 6 volts at the battery. Ok now I am thinking bad battery. But just to be sure I charged the battery again. once again it charged up in like 10 mins. started the bike up. put my volt meter on the battery with it running and it's showing 14.6 volts rev the bike up and the volts drop to 13.5 let it go back to idle volts go back to 14.5-14.6. So now I am thinking dang I just put a regulator on this bike when I got it. And it's a Honda regulator no china junk. But what is getting me is why the high voltage at Idle and lower under higher RPM's. Now I have the battery out fully charged and setting on the work bench so I can test the volts on it tomorrow after work. Just to see if the battery is loosing power on it's own. Any info you are willing to throw my way will be a big help.with this.  

Same thing no speed showing. I have been through every wire and plug on this bike checking for dirty plugs and bad wires. all I Have left is a speed sensor to replace. My post is in the forum on mind 

I hope replacing the speed sensor fixes mine. I am about tired of messing with it. 

Ok the orphaned wire is a Yellow and green strip wire. it goes to the oil thermosensor and the plug is broke off the wire. I got under it this morning and looked and sure enough that wire is just long enough to reach the oil thermosensor  and the wire for it is gone so I take it this must be where it goes.  Now I got to find a plug to go back on it. I don't think this would have any thing to do with my Speedometer not working. But ya never know. 

Got ya. I will check it tomorrow and let you know Thanks 

I will go out to the shop tomorrow and make sure it don't have a color strip in the yellow wire. It's one wire coming from the main harness going to the front of the bike and is cut loose just in front of the engine. And yes the Regulator was bad and I did replace it. But it's charging the battery and the shift trouble did go away for a little bit. and I have noticed that the shift trouble starts when I run the bike hard. I was riding it today and as long as I ride it slow the shifter works still no MPH showing but as Soon as I get on it hard it's starts flashing and I have to stop and cut it off to get the shifter display to show up again. This is something that I noticed today. most of the time I am riding the fields and I am getting on it good but I was just putting around it today and it never acted up. And after the speedometer started working I could run the ! out of it and it would not act up until the Speedometer stopped working again and the trouble would return.