MkHonda

3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I looked back and never did see if you purchased a Shindy carb kit or some other brand ???  the two float valves in the pic are different , might replace one and other on paper , but they are different if you look at the tip area  , no sure if that will solve anything for you , but I would start there 

yes the tips are definetly different.  The original has the taper of the rubber continue up onto the aluminum body.  Could be why it seated better. 

Not a Shindy.  Race Driven... an Amazon special for $16.  

11 hours ago, slowindown said:

Does it have the rubber tipped float needle or just metal?

Yes it did. The silver looking one is what was supplied with the kit. The tarnished one at the bottom of the image is the original.

The other interesting thing about this float needle is that it has a spring inside it that pushes on the tiny pin at the top of the needle. 

Well this weekend had a chance to dig into this. Long story short... polished with toothpaste and cleaned with a q tip.  The new float needle would seal if there wasn't much movement to simulate riding.  However a little jiggle like you would get riding a washboard road and lots of fuel coming out. 

In the end it worked best by using the needle it had. 

For what it's worth I did rig up a way to measure the float. The manual says it should be .730" with no tolerance range. My original jet measured .710 and the new one was at .735.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Has any one used the float measurement tool shown in the manual?  It looks like some kind of flimsy caliper.  Is it possible to use a regular caliper? 

Thanks again for for all the thoughts and suggestions.

Hoping tomorrow evening I'll be able to get beyond theorizing and pull the carb to try out some of these ideas.

Peening the valve seat would be a last step. The interesting thing for me from this vid is how he did a test to see if the valve was seating properly.

A new K & N in line filter was installed after reading some  posts here and seeing it suggested in videos. It was a bit bigger than expected but made it fit.  Hard to believe that Honda thought the little screen below the peacock would be enough to keep junk out. 

Toothpaste and a q tip will be something to try. 

Item 18 gave me some concern also. On assembly made sure it was seated properly.

Would trying the original float valve be worthwhile?

It might be the weekend before i get time to try these suggestions. But who knows.

Thanks for for all your thoughts.

Rebuilt the carb on my 91 TRX300FW but now there is gas running out of the float chamber vent tube. Item 20 in the parts diagram. After consulting a friend the first thought was that the float valve wasn't properly seated or something mis aligned on the float when assembling things. Pullled it apart to make sure the top of the float valve was positioned correctly with the float.  After the first assembly gas was running literally running out of the tube. Second time it was a drip every couple of seconds for the first 10 minutes then was a couple of drops per second.

Any one else experience this or have a potential remedy?  Much thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome.  I'll be hitting you up with some questions shortly.

Hi all,  

Glad to have found this forum active.  It will help me maintain my 91 TRX300 FourTrax.

Appreciate everyones help.