Popa Fry

i have the adjustment to the spec,... i have moved it around a little with no real change ... if it is the change clutch i was just in there today but did not look at it ...when i overhauled the engine 2 weeks ago the plates were not sticking.. thanks for the info

[ Let me tell you a story about a man named Jed ] most of you remember...lol That the way I feel but the story is PoPa Fry ok so with the full expert advice and sound information I decided to replace the centrifugal clutch. on a 2000 trx400fw foreman it goes like this. I did stand the atv on its rear tires and rack ( I tethered it to the chain hoist for safety sake.. disconnected the battery removed the gas tank and top body panels and drained the oil removing the gas tank was a good idea on several levels did not want to get gas all over the shop... and gained access to the front of the engine. did not have to do anything wither the fan i did have to loosen the front differential so i could get the front drive shaft and cover out of the way . once the bolts were removed the cover came off without to much maneuvering . i am sure some people can do this more quickly than myself it took me the better part of today NOW I start it up (still have carb problems ( idel ) put it in reverse and back out of the garage hard to get out of reverse ..Long story short it is some better bet for the most part i still have a jump when i put it into gear. it changes gear as long as you are moving but not always in and out of first and Reverse . i will let you know more later now i need rest I AM AN OLD MAN LOL

Looks inviting and the Same to you my friend if you ( or anyone else on here ) finds themselves in or around Lexington Kentucky let me know I don't have anything that Fancy but the Beer is cold . I live about 20 min. from Lexington.

if there were a way I would buy beer all around for those interested and Ice Tea or cola for everyone else ..

not expert but more experienced !!! for sure .....i put another cut off valve from an OEM carb i got on e-bay but I have a new valve now time to install it

Anyone a comment can i replace the centrical clutch without removing the motor ??????

NO on the FBI thing i was just curious about a man that was being very kind to me with all his expert advise Everyone here is very knowledgeable and have given me very sound advise as i am on this learning curve ..... that ....and i had never heard of Ojibwe Gichigami this is a new language and maybe he lives beside a Lake IDK... i did have one of those a long ago but could not find it .thanks for the starter fluid idea that should help me eliminate the boot.

the carb is OEM carb your picture states you are from Ojibwe Gichigami after a little research am i correct you have an Indian heritage and live in Canada . also what time zone are you in.. You have been very supportive and helpful and I want you to know how much it helps ((( I hate to admit it now but the new centrifugal clutch was from Amazon I now know never - never use any thing on your ATV that is not OEM or at least something non important like luggage rack LOL I was able to remove and replace the Stator without removing the engine maybe hoping i can do the same for the centrifugal clutch. it is a thought ....and maybe get another carb kit (can you recommend one) and go through it again. and double check the boot from the motor to the carb and if i remember there is an ' O ' ring on that flange to the motor.. one last thing (for today) when i was cleaning the carb i removed the air cut valve without knowing what it was or did was going to blow it out an (oh **** ) something blew of ....so i bought a old used carb from e-bay and put it on the carb could this be part f the problem ??? I know i am so needy maybe someday I will be able to help someone else I have learned a LOT from all of you men.

Men have followed Retro's professional advise as best i can : Case in Point I did go back and adjust the clutch to the 1/4 turn spec... I also ATTEMPTED to adjust my carb !!! I couldn't fit my hands under the carb so i eventually (after shortening a screwdriver and many cuts I took off the breather i know it is best to leave it on BUT !!! I am a Clutz I suppose even after removing breather i was unable to contort myself in a position to adjust the carb I had a couple of times i was getting it only to ultimately fail SOOOOOO I removed the carb turned that sucker on its side and made sure it was set at 2 1/2 turns from bottom and put it back on put back filter and box and cranked that baby up ... after it started i tried to adjust the throttle stop and did slow it down but it will run smooth then sputter once then run sputter and die (does start right back up) I don't think it ts a spark problem i am convinced it is in the carb (any comments ??? So i took it for a ride the motor starts as good or better than a new one .....now it does go into gear BUT when it does it lurches forward or backward not as much.... does better after it has run for a few minutes (( I did replace the Centrifugal clutch ) maybe it just needs some time to set in ??? ANY AND ALL COMMENTS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED !!! i I am at a point where i think i need to just get it and put some hours and let everything settle in I am weary from trying to get it better...Probably just tired...THANK YOU ALL !!

I WILL TRY LARGE HANDS SMALL SPACE I MIGHT NEED TO INVEST IN A RIGHT ANGLE SCREW DRIVER.... LOL

The manuals adjustment for clutch is where i started after rebuild.. 1/4 turn .. That said I will adjust it to that setting again as you suggest.... I have taken the slack out of the throttle cable per spec... the choke has a lot of movement that doesn't appear to make any change.... I don't see any adjustment .. when starting if i move it completely over it does increase idle some ... moved completely to right appears correct (except for the slack) i have tried adjusting the throttle stop screw but it will be one idle speed and then it will change sometimes after throttle up thought it might be the throttle cable ?? this unit did not have any of these idle problems before i rebuilt it as i Rember it belonged to a friend. When i rebuilt the carb the 2 1/4 turn is what I set . Thank you for your quick reply very appreciated .... i KNOW THS I A GOOD MACHINE

MEN !!! can YOU BELIEVE THIS .... Everything is running great if i accelerate and let off and it does NOT kill my CDi (YA !!!) put it in gear idles smooth ( still need to get carb adjusted right ) but now I am back to the original Question that started this tread Clutch problem I Have tried adjusting it to increase and decrease ( not sure what that actually does ) but now i am having trouble ... I can get it into gear while running ( both forward all gears ) and reverse but i cannot get it out of reverse or first gear without turning off the engine wow I thought i was ready TO RIDE LOL as always all help APPRECIATED>

well said i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it but OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must. I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working... on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

well said i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it but OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must. I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working... on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

ALRIGHT MEN I am back UPDATE: removed aftermarket Stator and replaced it with an OEM Sator ..put on OEM rectifier ...and OEM CDI unit i got the parts used from Power Sport Nation (someone suggested them it the previous Tread. so i start putting everything back together .... first check before i go to far I checked for spark... It had a very strong Spark arc..... so finished putting most everything back together..Cjhrecked the battery 13.1 DC volt stand alone measurement ... NOW COMES THE QUESTION : ...when i started it it runs smooth appears to be back the way it was running before i lost Spark.. CHECKED THE DC VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY AT AN IDEL AND HAVE A READING OF 14.6 / 14.7 BEFORE I HAD READINGS OF 14.2 / 14.3 IS 14.7 TO MUCH ?? IT IS AN OEM RECTIFER.... ALSO TO MY SUPRISE IF I INCREASE THE RPM TO WHAT I GUESS 2000 RPM THE VOLTAGE ACTUALLY DROPS TO 14.5 Thanks in Advance i know you wil keep me straight. I do appreciate your input Thanks

do i need to loosen the mounts and lift it up for Clearence and remove skid plate

I had found and cleaned the one from the motor to the frame on the outside of the frame per first print out!... and with the help of the second I FOUND IT under the harness .... it actually has two terminals each with 2 green wires.. SIR You are the Man I would like your thoughts on what could Blow a CDI other than a faulty rectifier. i did get it to rev up not sure to what RPM but the voltage remained 14.2 with 2 different rectifiers the one that was on the atv at the time of the CDI failures checked good but i had two CDI units fail like mentioned before i put a China a Stator in when i rebuilt it I am getting an OEM from Power Sport Nation to put in motor.. Sure wish i could do that without pulling the motor. You Men contribute so much to the Honda community not to mention helping an Old Man fix his Ride THANK YOU

that looks similar to mine one from batt and other wire goes to the frame I JUST FOUND IT !!! AND ATTACHES TO THE MOTOR maybe that's all I have ..

Retro I am having trouble locating the Grounds you mentioned I have one bolt on the engine the has two ground wires attached heavy wire . .. i started at the back at rectifier and tail lights followed it forward up to the fan cdi control box for fan lights and I did not find anything can you give me a hint where i would find the additional grounds 2000 trx400fw foreman i looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't help me Thanks men

plug was the same 3 yellow and 1 blur 1 green ...Update i received a new CDI (China I know( but the first one i got run good until it failed... for kicks i put the one i just received and although it started it runs like crap spitting and back fire i did get it to idle long enough to check the voltage on two different rectifiers both 14.2 i ma almmost convienced it is the stator or pulse generator... either way i need a new OEM Stator that should get me an amen !! Thank you all for the help i NEED itand appreciate you advise

thank you, i will let you know how it goes it will take some time to separate every plug these thing don" want to let go as you know never opened in 22 years ..... and need to find grounds on frame i will replace with OEM ASAP.. with local temp at 93 / 95 degrees I might be working late in evenings THANKS !!!

THANK YOU it fried both an OEM and China CDI both failed when the engine was reeved up.... tested before they failed and had 14.2/14.3 to the battery THIS WAS AT IDLE .. ... i did put an aftermarket stator in during my overhaul and i am thinking it is some how over powering something and causing the CDI Failure i have an OEM rectifier and CDI unit but i have a China CDI to use to prove out the ruined first OEM if i plug it in and get spark OEM CDI fried i am afraid to put in the new OEM CDI even if i put on the rectifier and get the 14.2 or so battery output. with overhaul and carb kit this motor runes as good as any i have seen starts in less than TWO revelations. runs smooth and sounds great.. i want this fixed and i am about to pull the engine and put in a OEM stator//Correct me if i am wrong if i have CDI failure it is the CDI Rectifier or Stator am i missing something Per you suggestion i will double all grounds. Runs until I lose spark. You men do not have any Idea how much i Appreciate your help ... hope to have this 400 out and running and dependable.

The first one is what i used....this test checks for a short between the ground and the post as i understand it 1 or 2 post side beside are ground (or empty ) one for coil one for alternator power one for key and one for pulse (not sure what that is ) Like i said this only shows there is no short between the ground and post not sure if that is a very good test Maybe this can help someone later.. i will know more when i get a new CDI and plug it in to see if I have spark ... I can check it before I install it and let you know later a THANK YOU

This is the best i can do: in google typed in is there any to test a CDI unit for Foreman TRX400fw ( listed below on page ) How do I know if my CDI box is bad? this is a YouTube

Sir I appreciate any information you can provide I am an Engineer by trade and I worked for my father in a Garage for 12 years so i have some basic knowledge .... that said this is relative new to me i found and old Polaris 500 that wouldn't shut off and rewired it new CDI New Voltage.. Rebuilt carb cleaned it up and got an offer i could not refuse ..... bought trx300fw.. carb kit rework rear brakes including axel and it is running very well.... it is for sale when i get this 400 FIXED...... THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for your help i found a way to test the CDI on line for shorts not sure that proves it is good ??? the original appears to be good Confusing right....wait until Tuesday get new CDI and try it out...rebuilding this complete was a challenge but the way ir runs is satisfying if i can only keep a spark lol