Popa Fry

i have the adjustment to the spec,... i have moved it around a little with no real change ... if it is the change clutch i was just in there today  but did not look at it ...when i overhauled the engine  2 weeks ago the plates were not sticking..

thanks for the info

[ Let me tell you a story about a man named Jed ]    most of you remember...lol  That the way I feel but the story is PoPa Fry  ok so with the full expert advice and sound information I decided to replace the centrifugal clutch.

 on a 2000 trx400fw foreman it goes like this.  I did stand the atv on its rear tires and rack  ( I tethered it to the chain hoist for safety sake..  disconnected the battery removed the gas tank and top body panels and drained the oil removing the gas tank was a good idea on several levels  did not want to  get gas all over the shop... and gained access to the front of the engine.  did not have to do anything wither the fan  i did have to loosen the front differential so i could get the front drive shaft and cover out of the way . once the bolts were removed the cover came off without to much maneuvering .  i am sure some people can do this more quickly than myself  it took me the better part of today NOW I start it up (still have carb problems ( idel )  put it in reverse and back out of the garage  hard to get out of reverse ..Long story short  it is some better bet for the most part i still have a jump when i put it into gear.  it changes gear as long as you are moving but not always in and out of  first and  Reverse .  i will let you know more later now i need rest I AM AN OLD MAN   LOL

Looks inviting  and the Same to you my friend  if you ( or anyone else on here ) finds themselves in or around  Lexington Kentucky let me know I don't have anything that Fancy but the Beer is cold . I live about  20 min. from Lexington.

if there were a way I would buy beer all around for those interested   and   Ice Tea  or cola for everyone else ..

not expert but more experienced  !!! for sure  .....i put another cut off valve from an OEM carb i got on e-bay  but  I have a new valve  now  time to install  it

Anyone a comment can i replace the centrical clutch without removing the motor ??????

NO  on the FBI thing  i was just curious about a man that was being very kind to me with all his expert advise  Everyone here is very knowledgeable and have given me very sound advise as i am on this learning curve .....

that ....and i had never heard of Ojibwe Gichigami    this is a new language and maybe he lives beside a Lake  IDK... i did have one of those a long ago but could not find it  .thanks for the starter fluid idea that should  help me eliminate the boot.

the carb is OEM carb   your  picture states you are from  Ojibwe  Gichigami   after a little research  am  i correct you have an Indian heritage and live in Canada . also what time zone are you in.. You have been very supportive and helpful and I want you to know how much it helps ((( I hate to admit it now  but the new centrifugal clutch was from Amazon  I now know never - never use any thing on your ATV that is not  OEM or at least something non important like luggage rack  LOL

I was able to remove and replace the Stator without removing the engine maybe hoping i can do the same for the centrifugal clutch.  it is a thought ....and maybe  get another carb kit (can you recommend one) and go through it again. and double check the boot from the motor to the carb and if i remember there is an  ' O ' ring on that flange to the motor.. one last thing (for today) when i was cleaning the carb i removed the air cut valve without knowing what it was or did  was going to blow it out an  (oh  **** ) something blew of ....so i bought a old used  carb from e-bay and put it on the carb  could this be part f the problem  ???  I know i am so needy maybe someday  I will be able to help someone else I have  learned a LOT from all of you men. 

Men  have followed Retro's professional  advise as best i can : Case in Point  I did go back and adjust the clutch to the 1/4 turn spec... I also ATTEMPTED to adjust my carb !!!  I couldn't fit my hands under the carb so i eventually (after shortening a screwdriver and many cuts  I took off the breather i know it is best to leave it on BUT !!!  I am a Clutz I suppose even after removing breather i was unable to contort myself in a position to adjust the carb  I had a couple of times i was getting it only to ultimately fail  SOOOOOO  I removed the carb turned that sucker on its side and made sure it was set at 2 1/2 turns from bottom and put it back on  put back filter and box  and cranked that baby up ... after it started i tried to adjust the throttle stop and did slow it down  but it will run smooth then sputter once  then  run sputter and die (does start right back up) I don't think it ts a spark problem i am convinced it is in the carb  (any comments ???   So i took it for a ride the motor starts  as  good or better than a new one  .....now it does go into gear BUT when it does it lurches forward or backward not as much....  does better after it has run for a few minutes (( I did replace the  Centrifugal clutch )  maybe it just needs some time to set in ??? 

ANY AND ALL COMMENTS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED !!!  i  I am at a point where i think i need to just get it and put some hours and let everything settle in I am weary from trying to get it better...Probably just tired...THANK YOU ALL !!

I WILL TRY  LARGE HANDS  SMALL SPACE  I MIGHT NEED TO INVEST IN A RIGHT ANGLE SCREW DRIVER....  LOL

The manuals adjustment for clutch is where i started   after rebuild..  1/4 turn .. That said I will adjust it to that setting again  as you suggest.... I have taken the slack out of the throttle cable per spec...

the choke has a lot of movement that doesn't appear to make any change.... I don't see any adjustment .. when starting  if i move it completely over it does increase idle some  ... moved completely to right appears correct  (except for the slack) 

 i have tried adjusting the throttle stop screw but it will be one idle speed and then it will change  sometimes after throttle up thought it might be the throttle cable ??  this unit did not have any of these idle problems before i rebuilt it as i Rember it belonged to a friend. 

When i rebuilt  the carb  the 2 1/4 turn is what I set .  Thank you for your quick reply very appreciated  .... i KNOW THS I A GOOD MACHINE 

MEN  !!!  can YOU BELIEVE THIS .... Everything is running great  if i accelerate  and let off and it does   NOT  kill my CDi  (YA !!!)  put it in gear  idles smooth  ( still need to get carb adjusted right )  but now I am back to the original Question that started this tread  Clutch problem  I Have tried adjusting it  to increase and decrease ( not sure what that actually does ) but now i  am having trouble ... I can get it into gear while running  ( both  forward all gears  ) and reverse  but i cannot get it out of  reverse or  first gear without turning off the engine  wow I thought i was ready TO RIDE LOL as always all help APPRECIATED> 

well said  i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it  but  OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must.   I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working...  on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share 

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

well said  i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it  but  OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must.   I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working...  on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share 

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

ALRIGHT  MEN   I am back UPDATE:   removed aftermarket  Stator and replaced it with an OEM Sator ..put on OEM  rectifier ...and  OEM   CDI unit  i got the parts used from  Power Sport Nation (someone suggested them it the previous Tread. so i

start putting everything back together .... first check before i go to far I checked for spark... It had a very strong Spark  arc.....  so finished putting most everything back together..Cjhrecked the battery  13.1 DC volt  stand alone measurement  ...

NOW  COMES THE QUESTION :   ...when i started it it runs smooth appears to be back the way it was running before i lost Spark..   CHECKED THE DC VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY AT AN IDEL AND HAVE A READING OF 14.6 / 14.7  BEFORE I HAD

READINGS OF 14.2 / 14.3  IS 14.7 TO MUCH ??    IT IS AN OEM RECTIFER.... ALSO TO MY SUPRISE IF I INCREASE THE RPM TO WHAT I GUESS 2000 RPM THE VOLTAGE ACTUALLY DROPS TO 14.5   Thanks in Advance i  know you wil keep me straight.

I do appreciate your input  Thanks

do i need to loosen the  mounts and lift it up for Clearence and remove skid plate  

I had found and cleaned the one from the motor to the frame  on the outside of the frame  per first  print out!... and with the help  of the second  I FOUND  IT under the harness .... it actually has two  terminals  each with  2 green wires..   SIR  You are the Man 

I would like your thoughts on what could  Blow a CDI  other  than a faulty rectifier.  i did get it to rev up not sure to what RPM  but the voltage remained 14.2 with 2 different rectifiers  the one that was on the atv at the time  of the  CDI failures  checked good  but i had two CDI units fail

like mentioned before i put a China a Stator in when i rebuilt it  I am getting an OEM from  Power Sport  Nation  to put in motor.. Sure wish i could do that without pulling the motor.  You Men contribute so much to the Honda community not to mention helping an Old Man fix his Ride  THANK  YOU

that looks  similar to mine  one from batt and other wire goes to the frame  I JUST FOUND IT !!! AND ATTACHES TO THE MOTOR   maybe that's all I have ..

Retro  I am having trouble locating the Grounds you mentioned  I have one bolt on the engine the has two ground wires attached heavy wire . .. i started at the back  at rectifier and tail lights followed it forward up to the fan 

cdi control box for fan lights and I did not find anything  can you give me a hint where i would find the additional grounds  2000 trx400fw foreman i  looked at the wiring diagram but it doesn't help me    Thanks men

plug was the same  3 yellow and 1 blur  1 green  ...Update  i received a new  CDI (China  I know( but the first one i got run good until it failed... for kicks i put the one i just received and although it started it runs like crap spitting and back fire  i did get it to idle long enough to check the voltage on two different rectifiers  both 14.2  i ma almmost convienced it is the stator  or pulse generator... either way i need a new OEM Stator  that should get me an amen !!   Thank you all for the help i NEED itand appreciate you advise 

thank you,  i will let you know how it goes  it will take some time to separate every plug  these thing don" want to let go  as you know never opened in 22 years ..... and need to find grounds on frame  i will replace with  OEM ASAP..

with local temp at 93 / 95 degrees I might be working late in evenings  THANKS !!!

THANK YOU   it fried both an OEM  and China CDI  both failed when the engine was reeved  up....  tested before they failed and had 14.2/14.3 to the battery THIS WAS AT IDLE ..   ... i did put an aftermarket  stator in during my overhaul and i am thinking it is some how over powering something and causing the CDI Failure 

i have an OEM  rectifier and CDI unit but i have a China  CDI to use to prove out the ruined first OEM  if i plug it in and get spark  OEM CDI fried  i am afraid to put in the new OEM CDI even if i put on the rectifier and get the 14.2 or so battery output.  with overhaul and carb kit  this motor runes as good as any i have seen starts in less than TWO revelations. runs smooth and sounds great..  i want this fixed and i am about to pull the engine and put in a OEM stator//Correct me if i am wrong  if  i have  CDI  failure it is the CDI  Rectifier  or Stator am i missing something  Per you suggestion i will double all grounds.   Runs until I lose spark.  You men do not have any Idea how much i Appreciate your help   ... hope to have this 400 out and running  and dependable.

 The first  one is what i used....this  test checks for a short between the  ground and the post as i understand it    1 or 2 post side beside are ground (or empty ) one for  coil  one for alternator power  one for key and one for pulse (not sure what that is )

Like i said this only shows there is no short between the ground and post not sure if that is a very good test  Maybe  this can help someone later.. i will know more when i get a new CDI and plug it in to see if I have spark ... I can check it before I install it and let you know later a    THANK  YOU

This is the best i can do:      in google typed in     is there any to test a CDI unit for Foreman TRX400fw      ( listed below on page )           How do I know if my CDI box is bad?  this is a YouTube

Sir I appreciate any information you can provide  I am an Engineer by trade  and I worked for my father in a Garage for 12 years so i have some basic knowledge .... that said this is relative new to me i found and old Polaris 500  that wouldn't shut off and rewired it  new CDI New  Voltage.. Rebuilt carb  cleaned it up and got an offer i could not refuse ..... bought  trx300fw.. carb kit  rework rear brakes including axel  and it is running very well....  it is for sale when i get this 400 FIXED......

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for your help  i found a way to test the CDI on line for shorts  not sure that proves it is good ??? the original appears to be good   Confusing right....wait until Tuesday  get new CDI and try it out...rebuilding this complete was a challenge but the way ir runs is satisfying  if i can only keep a spark   lol