Jared k

Well it has been a while since I got back to tell the status… I purchased a brand new OEM Honda CDI box for about $146 which was really annoying however, this is after trying to Amazon special CDI boxes amongst other aftermarket parts… OEM is the ticket! I put the new CDI box on and the four wheeler has been running for hours whereas before it would shut off without question after about 10 minutes so I am confident to say my problem is solved. So if anybody reading these posts do not buy cheap aftermarket Parts, it is not worth the headache… IOEM thank you guys for all your help

I’ll try again in the morning when it’s cold...thank you sir!

If my connections and wires all look decent- do you think it could still be cdi box? Need baked again? Going bad ?

So probably nothing to do with my issue?

LOL I suppose, however I have my coil disconnected, and I am simply taking a reading by touching both leads of my meter to the two contacts on the coil like the book states? Am I wrong in doing it that way? Either way... I feel like I’m back to square one... I can start it cold, run for a little then zero spark. The only thing that appeared to affect this was when I baked the cdi box, it seemed to run much longer and ran until I developed the no fuel- bad fuel cut relay and pump problem

Yes it’s showing 0.00 olms

And just to update... now several hours later long after it is cooled- I have spark again???!!! This is going to drive me insane...

Still not sure that would have to do with my current issue of no spark though?

So this pic shows the green wire ... it’s not directly to cdi box but in the area.. It looks to go to whatever the third pic is of.. looks like maybe the fuel unit ?

Yikes... now I notice there is a black wire with white tracer unconnected in your pic.. I just found same instance in mine- normal? Somebody has done electrical work on this in the past there are a couple different spices and new connectors added to either extend wires that may have been damaged or screwing around trying to figure things out but at face value everything looks tight, I’m gonna start digging a little bit though

So goober... treat me like I’m dumb please LOL... I understand the run switch and the wires your talking but how to I determine wether they have continuity based on having several points of connection along their run?

Both coils are dead ... and yes I’m following the manuals primary coil test- olms test in plug end and green connector point . I get a reading of 0 and the manual I think says it should be .1-.3 or something. Cdi reads HA7 C1537 and no there is still zero spark long after it has cooled down..

Thank you , yes actually I thought that same thing and did rap on it while cranking and still nothing, so my thoughts- and I need the masters input here... is putting an oem coil on first. Then addressing that cdi next ...?

So by the coil failing the primary coil resistance test... you wouldn’t automatically assume the coil is bad? it was brand new off of Amazon . And I don’t have the original coil either, it had been swapped with another Chinese special before I got ahold of it... my neutral light and oil light all work properly and like I said it ran perfectly for about 20 mins and then completely dead with no spark

Ok my genius atv pros I need help again/ still!! So I have baked the cdi, fried and replaced fuel cut relay, replaced fuel pump... boom- fired right up, pump primes( clicks) right when I turn key on then stops and machine fired right off. It just ran for a solid 20 minutes and sounded great... pump would click periodically as normal and I could rev it here and there — all good. And then just like that it died... I am back to no spark! So I went through the books cdi unit inspection with everything passing except the primary ignition coil ... so I go straight to the ignition coil book testing... secondary resistance passses but I have 0.00 on primary coil resistance. It is a new coil - yes off Amazon- but is it as simple as it’s a cheap Chinese coil so it just failed already or is something else throwing it off? Please help!!

Well said LOL ... understood!

That was going to be my next question, as I did run a wire straight to the battery and connect to the hot wire on pump and left the ground wire in pump connected to factory connector on four wheeler... it clicked several times like it was priming and fired right up. I haven’t left it run very long yet as I want to see if it would be safe to “ hot wire” the pump and run it without damaging anything? This would indeed conclude that that relay is ! though right? also for drawn out temporarily purposed experiment- can I just run a key on power wire to the pump and “ temporarily “ call it a day?

Ok guys so my new fuel pump has arrived ( yes Amazon fuel pump ) and I installed it and tried to start the machine and it would not fire and I heard a relay click so I looked back at the fuel cut relay to notice a little smoke coming off of it so I shut the key off and went back and looked and it looked like it was starting to fry the relay. Through doing some looking through the manual and looking on the four wheeler it looked like the four wheelers side of the wiring to the fuel pump being a green and a black with a blue tracer had the opposite bullet point connectors as the new fuel pump. Meaning the black and blue wire of the four wheeler should plug on to the hot wire of the fuel pump and the fuel pump has a positive symbol on one wire and the other wire is a solid black… The bullet points are incorrect to line up that way so I switched them just assuming that was because of somebody messing with the bike in the past or because of the Amazon pump… I then went through the manuals troubleshooting process of the fuel cut relay inspection and The first two steps check out and the third step checks out however step for require starting the engine to do the final check and I obviously cannot do that because it will not start. Throughout the entire process after putting on the new fuel pump at no point did I ever hear it click or click gang trying to build up pressure or pressurize so I am completely stumped, did I fry the fuel cut relay right off the bat so now I won’t get anywhere? Is this new fuel pump a piece of crap? Or am I just being dumb here

I have not- I will though thank you for input !!

After it initially stopped working ( running) I pulled the hose off of the pump going to carb and as I tried to crank it- zero fuel came out... I did the manuals test of checking voltage at cut relay and then adding jumper wire to plug and turned key on and pump pushed fuel like crazy with that jumper wire in plug at relay ... not sure how to rule out if it’s the relay or pump

I figured that was the case from reading the manual but before it stopped working it was pulsing rapidly while running without slowing down- the funny part is I actually suspected a valve train tap until I listened closer and found with a screw driver touching the pump and had due to my ear that it was indeed the pump clicking that loudly- consistently and constantly...

The only thing there is I can start it now and pump pumps fuel like crazy and it starts then it clicks very fast for several minutes. Then I shut it down and restart it and it won’t click at all...

So after connecting wires directly to pump from battery( just touching leads not holding on) it makes the pump click... the next day after the 20 minute run after everything has cooled down it starts and operates as normal but I can hear the pump clicking like crazy off and on while it’s idling. This makes me believe the pump may be bad, however last night when it was running finally for so long and this got nice and hot- that’s when the pump quit working and was pumping no fuel and not clicking at all- this made me consider the fuel cut relay being bad but now it’s back and forth - just depending on if it’s hit or cold it seems.... I’m stumped

I followed the manuals test for relay and pump by checking voltage at harness for relay , adding jumper wire into harness plug at relay and this got fuel to come out of pump, I did pump test and measured fuel that came out and it was way more than book days it should... either way in normal attempt to start it I can take hose off coming from pump and no fuel comes out and I never hear it even clicking ??

Ok so I have installed the cdi box and it ran solid for 25 minutes!!!! Have yet to have it running this long so I am cautiously saying I believe that did the trick! And now my fuel pump quit....but no spark has been a much bigger thing to conquer, as far as fuel it appears to be pump or fuel cut relay to investigate.