Brantley Foreman

Here is the broken brass tube. It doesn’t show up on any micro fiche and I’m not sure it can be replaced. but it wasn’t allowing suction to build up.

So I finally figured the issue out. The brass tube that does from the fuel bowl to the top on the outside of the card had cracked thus not allowing vacuum. Put a new carb on it and ran perfectly. I will try to find a good picture of the tube but very glad to have this issue behind me.

Hitting this back up to see if anyone has a CDI that they would sell me cheap?????

Yes, I replaced the pickup coil and charge coil together. I also checked the flywheel woodruff key it was in perfect shape and I put the flywheel back on. The ignition coil was replaced as well. I got desperate last night at 12am and put the CDI in the oven at 350 for 2 hours. Once it cooled I put in back on the bike and it fired right up and ran well. I was able to drive it around a little bit but after 20 minutes it started acting up again. You think that and all of the previous things I have done point to the CDI box? If so, does anyone have a CDI box from a grizzly 600 that they would make a me good deal on?

Yes, and I just did it again. It is at TDC Compression stroke, marks on the flywheel and camshaft are correct and the valves have correct lash adjustment. New spark plug, new coil, new stator, carb has been cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner, tank has been cleaned out and new non ethanol 93 gas. I don't know what else to do! Also compression is 110 PSI.

Put a new coil and stator on it. It fires up and idles well but as soon as you give it gas it dies. I have cleaned the carb three times and tank twice. Brand new spark plug and gas. Adjusted the pilot screw and it still does the same thing. Any ideas?

It doesn't every really start and run longer than a second or two. You can tell it on the verge of running but dies out after the initial fire. It can sit for days and not attempt to fire and run or it can sit 10 seconds and it will fire off but only run for a second or two.

Hey everybody, It has been a while and haven't been working on machines for a little bit, but I ran into a stumper. My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED! This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds. Here is where we sit: Brand New Fully Charged Battery Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version) Cleaned out petcock and gas tank New 93 Non Ethanol Gas New Spark Plug It gets a spark through the spark test light every time Bluish white spark When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head Good Compression Here are the readings (I have attached the electrical section from the service manual): Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561) Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330) Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858) Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms) Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms) Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit? Yamaha 600 Grizzly Service Manual Electrical Section.pdf

It's crazy, I know bunches of folks that run 25" tires on 300 without gear reduction with no problems. Also the tires and rims were brand new from honda....never used until this machine and it started from day one. You think its just too much tire for a stock gear ratio?

up on jacks without tires no problems. i guess it is either, larger tires, same size tires all around, bent rim or unbalanced! Any thoughts?

There is no water in the diff. The teeth of the ring gear nor pinion gear are not rusted. See pictures showing how good the internals are. The only rust is between the ring gear splines and the axle splines. All of the rear drivetrain is good and working smoothly. I guess it is either in the transmission or clutch. Would y'all think clutch plates or clutch weights are worn? Is there anything else to check to hone in on which clutch could be the culprit? Any more adjustment to see where the deficiency is?

I had it off the ground on my atv lift in both 2wd and 4wd (warn 424). It still does the same thing without load on the tires. If I use the original solid shaft it still does the same thing with low rpm and in each gear. It will almost shake it off the jack. No play in the out put shaft from the read of the engine either. I am stumped.

Took off swing arm and the u joint is great. It looks like it did the day it came off the assembly line. Swing arm bearings are tight and good. Pinion it tight and the shaft from pinion to u joint is great as well as the pinon cup of the shaft. Fighting with the axle now. It is stuck in the differential and my 20 ton press won't even push it out.

Hope everyone is doing well today. I am trying to diagnose the issue on my mint 1996 Honda Fourtrax 300 FW 4x4 It is all stock except for having 25" tires on 12" rims. The tires are stock maxxis tires from a foreman. I also added a Warn 424 6 or so years ago and a highlifter yellow spring in the back with the stock shock to help sag. Nothing has ever been done to this bike. Issues: When I am cruising at low rpms (0 to 1/2 throttle) in all gears there is a shudder or shake of the entire four wheeler but seems to be from mid line to back. When I put it on my atv jack it shakes a bunch at same rpms. The swing arm doesn't move when I jack it up and shake it. The intermediate axle from output to transfer case is tight. There are not shavings in the rear differential. The rear wheels don't have any play in the bearings and the axles seem straight. When I go full throttle the issues is not present. I have adjusted the clutch on the side cover to spec and also to only 1/8 clockwise and the issue is still present. No carb issues. Starts easily and donesn't bog due to fuel issues. What would y'all start with now?

I know that I’m just confused at why it had extremely high rpms and then after the cap change it still had it until miraculously it has the other extreme without any changes.