Halfdog

Interesting they match. I didn't notice any matching numbers? yes the title said harris I believe. A farm. Should be proceuted for criminal quad abuse and neglect. Using imperial screws in metric holes. Air box hanging from bent hacksaw blades and sheet rockacews. It's back to being solid bike now!

To close out this saga...I did find a used entire gear bundle that was also 11 splines...eBay..$70... Worked perfect. Put new rings, honed the cylinder, fixed up 100 other abused items, now the bike is running and manual shifting like new! Thanks everyone! Here's those serial numbers for your interest. I don't see any matching strings, so I guess the implication is it has its motor swapped. What an abortion this bike was. We've completely fixed it now, learned a lot.

We had just put the engine back together and were running it the yard at 10pm. But it would not shift into 5th gear. Lots of clattering. So we pulled the engine and split it open. That gears dogs were rounded and the shift fork bent a little. Got a new shift fork, and a great looking gear with 6 splines.

Interesting. I'm in exotic location of Kansas! And bike was a farm rig in Missouri! I offered Kuwait $35 for the gear and they declined. I've been reading about how to die grind the dogs smaller and to have a sharp corner again. Would be better if I had a cnc mill to do the job evenly. What a hassle!

2004 Honda Foreman 450s (manual shift). Old farm rig. We had to split the cases to solve some shift issues. Discovered a couple gears with rounded dogs. Ordered used replacement gear per OEM diagram for 2004 450FM. But the gear we got has only 6 internal splines and our shaft (and the old gear) has 11 splines. The only gear with that p/n and 11 splines I can find on ebay is from Kuwait for $99 + shipping. All others pictured on Ebay and so on have only 6 splines. Anyone know what's going on here or have a source for this number with 11 splines? 23441-HN0-A20 GEAR, MAINSHAFT THIRD (23T) Supersedes: 23441-HN0-670 (GEAR, MAINSHAFT THIRD (23T))

Interesting! We were getting binding (shifter not returning) when we had the end shim, so we assembled without it and it shifted properly. Almost. Lots of clattering noise when trying to shift into 5th gear. So we pulled the engine, split the cases (again) and see worn dogs on the moving 23 tooth gear and the RR shift fork looks bent slightly. So I have ordered those of eBay. Uhgg. No more old farm rigs for me! Thanks for the close attention! The other odd thing that happens is that each time we tear this thing down, it really takes a lot to get it pumping oil again. We crank and crank and don't see oil. So we use the air compressor to pressurize the crack case while cracking momentarily, then the pump primes and seems to work as normal. Wondering if a pump rebuild is called for? 10,000 miles on it I think.

OK, that helps. This image from the service manual. Maybe we have the washer from inside the cases installed out just under the outer case. Maybe that makes the shift shaft bind. Will put the cover back on without the washer and see what happens...this weekend...Thanks for the careful help.

OK, thanks for the tip. Poking into this slowly. With the clutch cover off, and the back wheels raised off the ground, I can easily turn the centrifugal clutch in reverse and shift it through all gears WITHOUT the shift lever sticking! So I have studied the shift clutch 3 ball mechanism closely and everything seems propper. Regarding your suggestion about the washer. I can't quite dissemble that arm without pulling the clutches it would seem. But I have a question. The exploded diagrams show qty TWO of item (25) (the washer) right up against each other!!? We've been watching the Fourwheeler Dr's video closely and right at 32:20 he installs ONE washer at the bottom. We have and he also (we think) had the second washer last on top of things against the outer case. Is this correct? Thanks for all careful advise! Will pull the clutches next we have too.

So we split these cases, studied the diagrams ever so carefully, and it seemed there was a missing thrust washer at far send of main shaft. We were hopeful this would solve everything. Re assembled, honed the cylinder, new rings, etc. Seemed to shift through gears on the bench. Started, runs great. Shifts like crap! Biggest problem is the shifter pedal itself doesn't poo back up from being pushed down. Have to carefully lift it with you your toe. Sure seemed like we had everything just so. Watched videos, studied diagrams. One thing we also found was little pressed in shift clutch pin in the outer clutch case was loose and wobbly. We loctited it into place good. Didn't help. Got it lifted up and about to open it up for the 3rd time. Suggestions?

Yes, we note we are getting about 4 clicks per rev. Still building up the nerve to split the cases!

Had so much fun with my first quad, a 2003 with the çcw/cw problem that little bro and I went out and bought our second quad, a high milage 2004 450s. We are going through the whole bike, brakes, axles, ball joints, wheel bearings etc. But big problem is a noise coming from front area of tranny, behind the shift clutch. And this engine also seems to have the spin down issues after you kill the engine, so we know it needs the one way bearing. But this clacking sound can be heard while engine running in neutral and 1-3. Also sometimes a lot of serious clattering while trying to shift gears, sometimes it shifts just fine. We have the engine out, the clutches off and observe that we can move the main shaft behind the shift clutch on and out maybe 1/8" and make the noise come and go. Actually make some gear engage and disengage. I'm hoping to attach video. Hoping someone can advise if we have to split the case and where to look. Thanks guys! Happy holidays! VID_20221225_193242904.mp4 VID_20221225_204550941.mp4

Just to wrap up. One of the stator bolts backed out. New stator, new cam chain, lapped in the same valves, cleaned the carb jets, put it all together, and it started on the first crank! Runs great! Enjoying it, looking for another project bike! Thanks for the all the good tips! VID_20221218_164833687.mp4

I took that pic too... Older chain did show a little more twist. This bike has 766 hrs and 4,000 miles. Assembled original the piston and rings into cylinder last night. Waiting on some OEM valve stem seals to put the head together next.

So I have been in the engine re assembly process for a while now. Finally have all the parts. Decided on a new did cam chain, but it seems almost same length as the old :). Decided against boring it, figure I can do that if needed without pulling the engine again. New valve seals of course. I just want to see this thing run!...I bought it not running. So another week or two.

Well I've pulled my first quad motor (with the help of my younger brother). Had it up on the bench, applied a speed wrench with 17mm to the coil pull hub. Still jamming occasionally, then not at all, then jamming. Pulled the clutch cover off, all looks ok. Jamming gone. Re install the clutch cover. More speed wrenching forward and back. More jamming, then free again! Turned the motor on it's side. Jamming. Back level, not jamming. Then we pulled the mageto cover and there was the loose fly wheel bolt rolling around wreaking havock! And the other 4 bolts were all loose too! So you guys were right! Now I'm in the market for a new stator. Don't see any OEM ones available, several on Amazon. With just 4k miles in thinking to leave the cam chain as is. Getting new valve stem seals, lapping the valves, debating getting a bore job and new piston (it looks ok). What was so odd was it sure seemed to go çcw but jam on cw. But as we rocked the motor we got various results. So check out the pics. Just need the new stator and trying to figure what else as long as it's on the bench. Suggestions? Thanks guys!

Nah, no idea on what happened. It did have a lot mud stains all the way up on the gas tank and rubber baffles. Would be interesting to know if he hydro locked it. But in central KS? Maybe. I did read about the stator flywheel bolts and it's on my mind. Kind of working towards pulling the head, then the whole engine and both end covers. Go from there. A few other clues learned: Dealer sticker on front frame says Indiana in 2003 ( I bought it here in KC 11/22) so it's about 20 years old. I think I'm the third owner not counting the 17teen year old based on what I was told. Has a new battery (disconnected) dated 4/22. Fully charged now. Has new looking tires Has a service ticket on the key fob dated 8/22 This is probably when it stalled and he took it in and they told him it was a lot $ to repair. He gave it to the neighbor kid, who sold it to me 11/22. Hooked up the battery, got a reading on the display: ~4000 mi & 766 hr = 5.2mph Drained the oil and looked at the filter. Nothing out of the ordinary. I payed $800 for it. So some room to fix the motor without getting upside down :) I probably will get to it again this weekend...pull the head...pull the engine...pull the covers...ordering a flywheel puller now :)

Thanks guys... Will pull the jug next. Spark plug is out for fancy snap on horoscope to go in. All looks ok inside there. At TDC, both rockers have a little clearance, and going çcw I can see both valves operate. But going cw results in a jam at seemingly different points. Can always then rotate çcw as much as I want. Comes down to either pulling the engine (loosening front diff, etc) or standing it on its tail and removing just the front cover and clutches. Sounds like I'm pulling the jug first either way. Suspect list: Timing chain stuff Cam lobes/ push rod ends One way bearings Something loose in gearbox Stay tuned. May take a few days for progress. Thanks!

Good advise as the I'll probably pull the jug eventually, might as well be sooner then later. Might make it easier to wiggle out of the frame if I have to anyway.

Bought this as non running. Previous owner took it to shop and they pulled the starter motor and recoil pull assembly of it, and I guess told him it would cost a lot to fix. Then his neighbor kid got it, over his head, now it's mine. Anyway, using a long bar on the recoil hub, I can turn the crank multiple revs in reverse (çcw) but only so far cw then it stops hard. Inspection of bore and valves with borescope looks ok as does the valve movement under the cover. Guess I'm working toward pulling the whole engine so I can go at it from either end until I find the problem. Unless someone here recognizes this symptom and can direct me otherwise. Thanks for any wisdom!

Howdy all. Just bought my first quad! A non running 2003 Honda Foreman 450 ES. Worked on lots of motorcycles my whole life, but new to quads. It was sold as having a "blown" engine. Overall it's in good condition. Engine crank can be turned some, but there are issues. Guess I'll post under "engine" heading and see what ya'll think. Cheers!