Raystrx350d

1 minute ago, shadetree said:

again...post the FULL PART NUMBER OFF THE BOX THAT THE C.D.I. CAME IN PLZ !

 

Give me just a min and I will

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

you need to double check what yr c.d.i. you bought ?..that model/year is a ONE YEAR ONLY !. no other c.d.i's will work on that bike !. don't tell me you bought a oem c.d.i. from some place out of new york ?, if that person knows anything about this year/make ?..then they should know very well that bike is a one year only for the c.d.i. if it ran ( fired off ) before you tore into it ?, then this tells me you got a problem some where in the electrical area..what and where ?..i do not know ?..what i do know is, you changed something to make it not fire the plug now !..now you must back track, and see where this issue is ?.

It's the same part number that mine came with 1545 shin. I agree I think it's in the wiring somewhere.  But I've been over ever inch of the harness and it looks new. 

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

and what about the fan control unit...how did you test this ?..because there is no test for it...other than replacing it with a new oem control unit !. you can however, unplug the fan control wire from the oil temp switch, turn key on, ground the wire to the engine for a good ground..when you do this, the fan should kick on. if it does ?..then this tells me the fan control might be the bad part. the bad news is...this fan control unit is no longer being sold today.

I only tested the new and old parts I replaced, the fan will come on if it's power put to it with a probe,  

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

does the fuel pump '' tick '' when you are cranking it over ?, if not ?, then the fuel pump is bad. as you already said you bought a new fuel cut-off relay, so that rules that out. which means the fuel pump is bad. is the fuel pump oem ?..or did you get it off ebay or amazon ?. if its not from honda ?..its a china knock-off..junk.

Can put battery voltage to it with probe and it works fine, or straight to battery works fine.

2 hours ago, Snow Camo said:

Hey when you checked the ignition switch did you bypass all 4 wires or 2?

Just 2, 

On 2/23/2023 at 6:37 AM, shadetree said:

keep in mind, a no-spark issue can be a bad c.d.i. ? ( maybe they sold you the wrong year ? ). a bad reg/rec ?, bad stator ? ( stator must match flywheel ! )  bad kill switch ? ( not making good contact ? ), bad..lose ground ?..bad spark coil ?, you claim you had spark before you tore into it ?, but now you do not ?..this tells me..something got changed after you started tearing into it ?, or..you changed a part that was not bad ?..when i run across something like this, i go back to where i first changed something..put it back like it was..then trace from there.

Yes had spark when I bought it, wouldn't run, had 2 bent valves. Repaired those. Put new rings and valve seals in it. Adjusted the valves. Put it back together no spark.  No parts was changed until the mechanical problem was fixed. All parts I changed are in spec, all parts I replaced after no spark issue are in spec. Checked every inch of wiring harness grounds etc. Looks new. Everything on it works, lights, dash lights, starter switch. Fuel pump doesn't charge when key is turned on, and no spark.  At a loss.. to the point I'm thinking about parting out whole bike. 🤔 

On 2/23/2023 at 8:35 AM, Goober said:

A little mistake like having the coil leads switched is easy to check. The color codes on the coil are hard to see

The OEM fuel pump relay came in,  still no spark.  I've even changed those around to check for spark. The yellow and black goes to postive or negative on coil? Doesn't show on wiring diagram. 

On 2/23/2023 at 9:43 AM, shadetree said:

you make the very same point i made above ^^^, something tells me he changed a part, that did not need changing maybe ?, or moved/touched/pulled apart something causing this mess.

OEM fuel relay came in, still no spark! 

Every part passes specs.. old parts check out in specs too.. I've checked every inch of harness.. every ground. I'm at at loss. 

On 2/15/2023 at 10:42 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

 

Plus ^^^^^ Back track.... As shade says.... You HAD a spark before all the replaced parts, work, etc.....could very well be a oem part you replaced with china junk failed... Thanks for updating us... The more we know...  better help can be provided.... And pics / videos are a BIG Help! Speaking of....did the oem cdi come from a private vender in New York ?? Or honda dealership ? And last question .... You say the safety number switch lights up  .... Are you referring to the green neutral light ?  

Yes sorry was referring to the neutral safety switch. & oil light temp comes on then goes back out

12 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Sorry continuity at both places

12 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Have continuity on fuel pump and at relay

7 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Ok I'll check this!! Thanks for all your help.. oh meant checked engine side of harness I checked.  I ordered a oem relay.. I'll let you know when it gets here

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

the fuel cut-off relay, how many times must i point this out ?..lol. if the relay is bad ?, the fuel pump wont work.

Lol sorry must have missed it somewhere.. I'll see if I can find a oem one

18 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

I have battery voltage at green and black wire at fuel pump relay.. it's said to run jumper wire from that terminal to blue and black wire and should have 12 volts there. DONT .. do you know what would cause this?

It also said to text fuel pump wires for voltage.. I have none!! Tested the fuel pump straight 12 volts it works . What will kill the voltage ?

58 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

I'll try the fuel flow test! Thank you!

I have battery voltage at green and black wire at fuel pump relay.. it's said to run jumper wire from that terminal to blue and black wire and should have 12 volts there. DONT .. do you know what would cause this?

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Check RRL Y connection. It should be a single Y wire coming off stator—separate from the 3 yellow wires coming off stator

On the cdi side the yellow wire has 15.40 omhs 2 ohms oh the engine side

No voltage on either side.

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Trying to upload Schematic — not going up—you can use this to trace.
 

go to page 17-3

my thought is fuel system malfunction. If you’re not getting pump to come on, then see if you can jump the circuit by performing fuel flow test on page 20-8.

 

see the fuze block (4 + spare) and fifth fuze in a separate holder. make sure pump fuze is good by testing voltage at Black/Green wires at both the left hand multi switch and fuel cut relay. I think you’ve already successfully done this. 

 

you’re talking about the pulse generator—yes these can go bad—check resistance 300-360 Ohm by testing at the connectors under the right side cover.  Additionally check for continuity of the pulse generator to the CDI using the Blue/Yellow and Green/White CDi harness connectors. This should give you a complete circuit.

I'll try the fuel flow test! Thank you!

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Check RRL Y connection. It should be a single Y wire coming off stator—separate from the 3 yellow wires coming off stator

You're correct it does have this wire separate. Do I check it for voltage or ohms? Sorry very new to this but I can follow directions! 

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Trying to upload Schematic — not going up—you can use this to trace.
 

go to page 17-3

my thought is fuel system malfunction. If you’re not getting pump to come on, then see if you can jump the circuit by performing fuel flow test on page 20-8.

 

see the fuze block (4 + spare) and fifth fuze in a separate holder. make sure pump fuze is good by testing voltage at Black/Green wires at both the left hand multi switch and fuel cut relay. I think you’ve already successfully done this. 

 

you’re talking about the pulse generator—yes these can go bad—check resistance 300-360 Ohm by testing at the connectors under the right side cover.  Additionally check for continuity of the pulse generator to the CDI using the Blue/Yellow and Green/White CDi harness connectors. This should give you a complete circuit.

Ok Have power on green and black wire, checked the pulse generator has about 400 ohm, spinning it over has about 350 ohms 

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

fuel pump wont cycle unless its cranking over. it has a fuel cut-off relay above the right rear wheel, inside the metal box, its black, with a red connector.

I've found that, it's no power on the black and yellow wire. It runs from the fuel pump relay to cdi box then back to coil.

What powers that wire? Thanks for the help! 

13 hours ago, Goober said:

Sorry kinda late. Revolution Research Line is the 88-93 ignition system. It’s different from 86-87 TRX350A in that it does not have an exciter coil—or pickup coil as you referred to it. 
the Foreman doesn’t have an exciter coil.

My reading of the RRL indicates the CDI amplifies the spark. So let’s focus on that.
if you used a n aftermarket stator the directions might have directed you to leave the exciter coil (black/red) unplugged or it might have only come with a green (ground) and Blue/yellow wire (pulse generator). 
i will copy the schematic for you tomorrow. I see you got wires all over. So just take a break from the meter and just try to understand how the system should work.

Are you sure it’s a TRX350D? 

Thanks for the help! I was told it was a 90 trx350d. On the frame up front it says 88 trx350d it's blue from the factory. 

I bought a repair manual for it. I've went over everything.  You're correct mine is a foreman and doesn't have the exciter. 

What I was referring to was the pick up coil next to the stator. I bought a new oem cdi box. Still no spark. Could it have gone bad sitting over 30 years? I read where a guy named retro gave a list of what and how to check the wires at the cdi box. I tested those last night and all was just as he said it should be. All the lights work, high low beam etc. Have battery voltage at bw wire at cdi . Fuel pump doesn't turn on when switch is turned on and no spark. Switch is good, spins over with it. No power on black yellow wire going to coil or cdi or going to Fuel pump. What powers this wire? Thanks in advance! 

10 hours ago, shadetree said:

send it all back..pure junk..lol.

They passed all the test.. even ran all the test I saw retro post about wires at the cdi box .. past all the test???? 

10 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

To recap, I fixed the mechanical problem, got it back together no spark. So I bought oem cdi, called a Honda dealership of Danville VA. They said it was one in NY. ( someone asked ) all the lights work or have power. Stator and pick up coil all in specs. I did buy the rest of the parts from a place called Celtics in California.  When I turn key on oil temp light comes on for couple seconds.  Neutral light comes on. Spins over with starter switch.  I'll take pictures and post tomorrow well today now. I have a guy coming over in a day or two that's good.  If he gets it firing I will come back and let everyone know what problem was and what fixed it. I see alot of people get advice from you guys and get there's fixed and never even come back. Thanks for everyone taking the time to reply.  

Just now, jeepwm69 said:

 

Caltric?  That's not good.  Some of their stuff is ok, but most of it is Chinese junk.  What all did you get from them?

Stator, coil, pick up coil, rectifier, fuel pump 

To recap, I fixed the mechanical problem, got it back together no spark. So I bought oem cdi, called a Honda dealership of Danville VA. They said it was one in NY. ( someone asked ) all the lights work or have power. Stator and pick up coil all in specs. I did buy the rest of the parts from a place called Celtics in California.  When I turn key on oil temp light comes on for couple seconds.  Neutral light comes on. Spins over with starter switch.  I'll take pictures and post tomorrow well today now. I have a guy coming over in a day or two that's good.  If he gets it firing I will come back and let everyone know what problem was and what fixed it. I see alot of people get advice from you guys and get there's fixed and never even come back. Thanks for everyone taking the time to reply.  

15 hours ago, Goober said:

Welcome You changed stator too? Wow that a little bit of work there!

where did you get the new OEM CDI? That’s a great pick.

Download the service manual if you don’t already have one.

do a load test on your battery first. You must have a good battery. 
then I would inspect all the wiring 
At switch on, you must have a steady neutral light and your oil light should come on momentarily and then go out?

It’s possible for cut wiring to inhibit spark. So I pulled off my fenders and inspected every inch. I found my yellow/red wire from the fuzebox chewed through. of course mine is an 86 A and you have the Revolution Research Line 88D CDI.

 

What is that revolution research line?

I have all the fenders off.