Reebs

That's the last thing I want (bigger problems). However, my initial idea is not necessarily to clamp any part of the shield itself. The shield, when properly positioned as in the photo below, leaves the exact space shown in the photo (shiny steel area) and you can see the "old" JB Weld on the back "lip" of the shield. Where you see the JB weld, that is on 100% of the shield lip and none remains on the shaft itself). I can simply take my hand and pull the shield off that spot- there is nothing keeping the shield in place right now. So once you start riding, within seconds to maybe as long as a minute that shield rotates backwards and once it slides down on the narrower part of the shaft it just starts clanging and bouncing around (just wanted to paint a clear picture of what happens). All I need to do is keep it from being able to move off its intended spot in the photo. Since the shield rotates with the shaft, my idea was to simply put the hose clamp in what seems like the perfect space to allow for one, and butt it right against the shield lip and tighten it down. There would be no way for the shield to walk backwards with the clamp at its back edge. So the clamp would sit in the space where the blue arrow is in the photo. All I want to do is block the shield from moving (this is also why I suggested zip ties or even a thin wrapping of waterproof silicone tape in the same spot as ideas. The clamp only weighs 3/4oz and will weigh even less once I tighten it down, because I will cut off the excess tab once its tight. The shield doesn't need much force to be kept in its natural spot (again, mind boggling why Honda couldn't have solved this issue). To me, putting a clamp where the blue arrow is will allow the clamp to bite down perfectly smooth creating a tighter seal than if I grab part of the shields back edge. Make sense? Does this change your thoughts on the "balance" concern? A zip tie would be even lighter but I am not sure I can pull it tight enough to last (not eventually move) on the smooth metal shaft whereas I could get a hose clamp tighter and likely never move off the spot keeping the shield where it is supposed to be. Even the waterproof silicone tape that sticks to itself by wrapping could work...Thanks for all the help- I hope I clarified my ideas!

Thanks Melatv. I think tack welding it would be a great solution and probably do the trick. Unfortunately, I don’t have a welder, but if I need to bring my ATV in for service in the future, that’s something I can ask them to do.

Wilson, that’s a fair question on whether I ever hit a fixed object and I can honestly say I don’t think so. The shield fits really well in its space and is very protected by the skid plate under the rear differential. It’s protected nicely. That, combined with the fact the shield itself shows no signs of any wear and tear and it is in perfect condition throughout (with the exception of some leftover JB Weld on it that I applied). I am confident this is just poor design as it came off really early (within a few months) in my ownership of the machine which was purchased brand new.

Totally agree. You'd think Honda could address this rather easily. I was actually just going to head outside and mess around with the ideas we've been talking about. I will post back at some point so any others that come across this thread have some feedback on them.

Thanks again for the help. The shield doesn't seem to ever walk too far forward. If you pull it forward into its natural position, it seems to sit where it should until you take it for a ride. There seems to be a natural lip that is sits on (this, in my opinion is where Honda has a faulty design- its too easy for the shield to not stay in place). However, once you ride for a short distance the shield can "walk" backwards. I personally wouldn't buy a new shaft (even though it is not too expensive). The work to install a new one combined with the fact this seems to be a somewhat common occurrence with these, I would just think it would happen again. Going to look at minute mend, the zip tie idea and hose clamp just to see what might work best. If the zip tie or hose clamp are only band-aids, I am no worse off if they fail...but maybe they hold. Thanks!

I don't think I would weld it- just more than I would get into (for my skillset). I think just adding a stainless steel hose clamp right behind it and cinching it real tight might do the trick, although TBRider suggestion is also a possibility (if I understand you right, back off the shield from its normal spot down to the thinner part of the shaft, crimp it down a bit and then wedge it back up to is normal position?). I still even think a zip tie might work unless the shaft is so smooth that eventually it will slide back, but even if it holds for a period of time, it would be a cheap band-aid from time to time. I will try a few of these ideas and see what happens. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies! I thought welding it would be a solid idea, but that is a little outside of my wheelhouse

Hey Everyone, I wanted to give an update to this post. I was out for a ride last weekend and heard a noise that was all too familiar- metal on metal clanging and I new immediately what it was before I had gotten off the ATV. The Splash Cover/Dust Cap had come free AGAIN. I was honestly very surprised because as you can see from the photos last September, I had applied a lot of the JB Weld (and a little overkill from what you guys told me back then lol). It had hardened so well back then it was like a fiberglass cast on a broken arm. I thought I had finally solved the problem, but it only lasted 6 months and I didn't even ride all that much over the winter. I can only assume it wasn't the right application or user error when I applied it maybe because there wasn't enough for the JB weld to "bite" onto. You can see in the updated photo below the remaining JB Weld is only on the cover itself allowing it to slide backward and slide all over the shaft again. So, now I am determined more than ever to win against this repeat issue. I came up with a few ideas and was curious to what you guys think. 1) Put a zip tie right at the back of the cover (concern would be this would just slide off over time unless I can pull it really tight) Cheap and maybe a simple fix though and I could just keep a few with me when I ride for a quick repair on the trail. 2) Put a hose clamp right on the back edge and tighten it down really good. 3) Wrap it with some Nashua Stretch & Seal self-fusing silicone tape (or maybe some weatherproof foil tape for HVAC ducts??). 4) Try JB Weld again, but since I thought it would last years and it didn't even last 7 months, I am not confident. Aside from several of you that will probably tell me to cut it off once and for all, I wondered what you thought of my other ideas?! I am leaning toward the hose clamp because there is about the perfect amount of space for it to sit right behind the cover. Thoughts? Thanks!

Ok, good to know. I may do that. Nice to know I could improve the “professional look” if I wanted too!

Haha...yeah, I’d say I put so much on I was going with the “more is better” mentality to hopefully solve this issue once and for all. I knew it was going on thick, but I wish I knew about the alcohol trick on the finger. Tough application laying under the quad trying to figure out how to apply that around the whole circumference. But unless you are really looking from the side above the tire, it’s not super noticeable. I’ll keep you posted!

Here is a look at my JB Weld repair. Labor Day weekend was busy so I didn’t get to take it for a ride like I wanted to, but I wanted to at least get some photos posted. The JB Weld set up amazingly well (at least for me never having used it). The Dap auto/marine would work, but it was still softer to the touch even days after application which you can see why it would break down over time. The JB Weld looks and feels like it was the right repair...it is molded very well around the cap and the drive shaft and came out hardened and completely ridged. I am confident this should work. I’ll update after a ride or two and then again 6+ months from now. Thanks again for the help.

Absolutely! I was definitely going to. Plan to take some picks this weekend for you. I applied the JB Weld Thursday night and didn’t touch it until last night. Haven’t ridden the quad yet, but from the looks of it and feel of it, it looks like it came out awesome. Wished I had used JB Weld from the get-go! Be in touch with more follow up. Appreciate your follow up too!

Dealer/service dept said he had seen this before, but not often so he didn’t think it was super common. As several have already stated/confirmed it is supposed to spin with the drive shaft. I decided to try one more time and fix it so I bought the JB Weld today, mostly because I want to see if I can get it to hold longer than what I was using previously and based on your feedback, it should! Figured it was worth the $5 and a little more of my time and have the cap do what it was designed before I think about cutting it off. Appreciate everyone’s help...great forum here.

Makes two of us! I am heading to my local dealer to ask. I want their take on why this happens, but I also want to see if they can definitively tell me if the cap is supposed to be fixed to the shaft and spin or to the rest on the rear diff and remain fixed (not spin). They don't have any Ranchers on hand in inventory where I could just go see it for myself, but I trust Service will know. I figure if I am going to try and JB Weld it, I mind as well glue it down in the right spot. I can report back what I learn.

OK- appreciate the help. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. You guys know a lot more than I do, but if cutting it off is an option, I'd consider it to not have to deal with it. However, for a novice like me I would think it is meant to keep sand and water out of the slight opening that would be revealed with it gone (from my first pic) where the shaft inserts to the rear diff...which I would think is bad?

Hello- I had posted this issue in 2016 on another forum site that I believe several of you were on before this site so I decided to post it here. I could use some advice again. The “cap” that is part of the Shaft RR. Propeller came loose after I bought my Rancher years ago. It was suggested back in 2016 when I originally posted this is not the first time some of you had heard of this cap coming loose on some models and to try some silicone or JB Weld. I used a product called Dap Auto & Marine silicone. It does the trick but only lasts about 6 months or so before it starts to break down, and then I have to clean it all off and apply again so I wanted to try and get a longer-term fix. In looking at this more closely I realized I may have been putting the epoxy in the wrong spot. The key question I have is the “cap” intended to sit in a FIXED position on what I believe is the “Case Sub Assy RR Final Gear” (according to the part diagram) or is it intended to spin with the Shaft propeller? I am attaching pics for reference. Pic 1 shows how freely the cap in question just slides off when there is nothing holding it in place (defective shortly after I bought it new). When it starts to come loose I always remove the old glue/epoxy and clean it up real good) and apply again. Pic 2 shows where I have been applying the epoxy right at the neck where the cap slides as far forward as it can (in its correct spot). Applying the epoxy here does a decent job, but in this scenario the cap is “fixed” to the propeller shaft and therefore the cap spins with it when the quad rolls. I always thought that is how it is supposed to be. Then last night looking more closely I realized when I pull the cap snugly into its correct position (kneeling from behind the Quad), the cap, letter “A” in pic 3 stays in place “fixed” on letter B, and doesn’t spin when the quad rolls (keep in mind the cap doesn't stay in place but a few feet before it comes loose which is why I need to fix it). Is the cap supposed to stay fixed and not spin? If so, I need to either 1) try a better epoxy than Dap Auto Marine silicone And/or put the glue on the perimeter of the Case Sub Assy (letter B) and slide the cap onto the glue and into position. Or, I was thinking do I try some high strength tape and just tape “A” to “B” (in pic 3) around the entire circumference and know I will need to replace it fairly often given it is going to get muddy and wet all the time, but maybe that is the path of least resistance? Wonder what this group of forum members would do if this was their quad? Please let me hear some advice and let me know how that cap is supposed to sit (fixed or spins). Thanks!

Ghosta- if you are interested in the complete story, read the whole chain to see how I got into this predicament and made a bad situation worse for myself. General opinion was I needed to get it out for fear it was close to or touching the ring gear. Regardless- the bolt is out and this is no longer an issue. I was just trying to bring a close to the topic in the forum and thank everyone for the support.

Ha! Fair enough. I thought I implied how, but I guess I did leave those details out without confirming. He drilled it and then used an easy out. I will make sure there was no other detail that is important to the story next time I see him. He said being in the business he’s in, he has seen his share of sheared and rusted bolts so he is well versed in the task. I think where I went wrong after looking at the bolt after it was removed was he drilled it much deeper than I did initially which allowed the easy out to bite better. He is confident the bolt never hit the ring gear at any point (by my first attempt way back when I first got into the mess by trying to drill it clockwise).

Thought I would bring this post to a close with a decent outcome! See the photo attached...one broken "Check Bolt" removed! I called in a favor to the guy who I buy/service my power equipment with (doesn't normally work on ATV's) who I trust and he was able to get it out without having to take apart the rear diff. I am glad he got it with minimal damage to the bank account (relatively speaking). Only downside is I couldn't do what he was able to, but I learned a few valuable lessons here (namely don't over torque a rear differential check bolt ever again!). Anyway...Glad everything is in working order again so I wanted to let everyone know (especially since many said they thought it would spin out when done right...and it eventually did). Appreciate everyone's help on this site.

Thank you very much for all the help. I will be back in touch with results! Might be a week or two until I can get to it but I will be sure to post what happens.

I would say no...I don't believe it has turned at all so I don't think shavings are a problem...yet anyway.

Cant tell you how impressed I am with peoples willingness to help- thank you! Here is a photo as best as I can get it. Should give you a feel for where I am. I am mostly confident the shavings you see are from the bolt and I have not hit the threads. I also think I am straight, but not certain. I say that because the shaft I am looking down is pretty narrow to know so its really hard to see the end point clearly, but when I look at my drill when I am drilling, it looks pretty centered where I am positioning the drill. The extractors I bought are of quality. Got them from Napa Auto and the guy told me its what his mechanics use. They are longer square shafted extractors (not those short "easy outs"- which wouldn't fit anyway). They are the square style ones with more of a pyramid tip (not the crayon tipped ones with ridges- guy said it was personal preference and he suggested the more "squared off ones". Maybe I just haven't drilled deep enough for the extractor to bite, but again, hard to know depth. The drill bit shavings seem damp with oil so I feel like oil is seeping which would make you think the bolt isn't extremely tight. I have the broken head and a replacement bolt to compare to so based on that I would say about 3/8 inch of bolt is inside. My guess is I have drilled less than half of it out (maybe 1/8" or so??). Yes- I am 100% sure I am in reverse on the drill:). Lastly, to respond to one other point made, I did drive the quad around my yard last night to test the operation (obviously before I got the post this AM) and the quad rides flawlessly- you would never know there was an issue. As for tools I have on hand- its the basics. Craftsman Socket set is 75 pieces with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drives. Largest sockets are 1" and 19mm. I have your other basic tools on hand, but no 30mm or impact. I do have a large pipe I could put over my 1/2" drive, but seems I would need some additional sockets if I take this on.

Went out and got my left hand drill bits, but after over an hour of trying, no luck backing our the broken stud. I know I was drilling because there were plenty of metal shavings, but it wouldn't back out. I started with smaller bits to give myself a few cracks at it and ultimately spent the most time with a 1/8 bit (8mm bolt shaft). Then I would alternate with my extractors (1/8 and one a little bigger too 3/16). Sometimes, I would think they would bite, but only to slip and not budge it. Really hard not being able to see anything. The only thing I can think of is I have not drilled the hole deep enough, but I am afraid I will drill through the bolt entirely and hit the "ring gear" if it is right against it. Not sure where this leaves me. Either I leave it be entirely, or I pull the whole rear end apart, but I think that could potentially be above my skill set? I called a local dealer and they want $150 for pickup/delivery (I have no truck or trailer) and they think the job could be a 5 hour job at $120 an hour. Seems crazy to think a "pro" would need 5 hours for that work. So...there are my options. Pretty crappy situation because I over torqued a 10mm head of a bolt at the very end of an oil change! Regardless, thanks for all the help.

Thanks- good point that a right handed bit drove it in, so maybe I'll have the same luck with a left hand bit . The left hand bit will go into the same hole I created already so nothing to really center punch. I'll keep you posted no matter what for the end result (or my next set of problems:). Probably won't be able to get to it for a few days, but I want to get this right so I can sleep better! Also, good tip on wrapping the drill bit with tape except for the end. Thanks again.