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  1. Ok, good to know. I may do that. Nice to know I could improve the “professional look” if I wanted too!
  2. Haha...yeah, I’d say I put so much on I was going with the “more is better” mentality to hopefully solve this issue once and for all. I knew it was going on thick, but I wish I knew about the alcohol trick on the finger. Tough application laying under the quad trying to figure out how to apply that around the whole circumference. But unless you are really looking from the side above the tire, it’s not super noticeable. I’ll keep you posted!
  3. Here is a look at my JB Weld repair. Labor Day weekend was busy so I didn’t get to take it for a ride like I wanted to, but I wanted to at least get some photos posted. The JB Weld set up amazingly well (at least for me never having used it). The Dap auto/marine would work, but it was still softer to the touch even days after application which you can see why it would break down over time. The JB Weld looks and feels like it was the right repair...it is molded very well around the cap and the drive shaft and came out hardened and completely ridged. I am confident this should work. I’ll update after a ride or two and then again 6+ months from now. Thanks again for the help.
  4. Absolutely! I was definitely going to. Plan to take some picks this weekend for you. I applied the JB Weld Thursday night and didn’t touch it until last night. Haven’t ridden the quad yet, but from the looks of it and feel of it, it looks like it came out awesome. Wished I had used JB Weld from the get-go! Be in touch with more follow up. Appreciate your follow up too!
  5. Dealer/service dept said he had seen this before, but not often so he didn’t think it was super common. As several have already stated/confirmed it is supposed to spin with the drive shaft. I decided to try one more time and fix it so I bought the JB Weld today, mostly because I want to see if I can get it to hold longer than what I was using previously and based on your feedback, it should! Figured it was worth the $5 and a little more of my time and have the cap do what it was designed before I think about cutting it off. Appreciate everyone’s help...great forum here.
  6. Makes two of us! I am heading to my local dealer to ask. I want their take on why this happens, but I also want to see if they can definitively tell me if the cap is supposed to be fixed to the shaft and spin or to the rest on the rear diff and remain fixed (not spin). They don't have any Ranchers on hand in inventory where I could just go see it for myself, but I trust Service will know. I figure if I am going to try and JB Weld it, I mind as well glue it down in the right spot. I can report back what I learn.
  7. Thanks for the replies. You guys know a lot more than I do, but if cutting it off is an option, I'd consider it to not have to deal with it. However, for a novice like me I would think it is meant to keep sand and water out of the slight opening that would be revealed with it gone (from my first pic) where the shaft inserts to the rear diff...which I would think is bad?
  8. Hello- I had posted this issue in 2016 on another forum site that I believe several of you were on before this site so I decided to post it here. I could use some advice again. The “cap” that is part of the Shaft RR. Propeller came loose after I bought my Rancher years ago. It was suggested back in 2016 when I originally posted this is not the first time some of you had heard of this cap coming loose on some models and to try some silicone or JB Weld. I used a product called Dap Auto & Marine silicone. It does the trick but only lasts about 6 months or so before it starts to break down, and then I have to clean it all off and apply again so I wanted to try and get a longer-term fix. In looking at this more closely I realized I may have been putting the epoxy in the wrong spot. The key question I have is the “cap” intended to sit in a FIXED position on what I believe is the “Case Sub Assy RR Final Gear” (according to the part diagram) or is it intended to spin with the Shaft propeller? I am attaching pics for reference. Pic 1 shows how freely the cap in question just slides off when there is nothing holding it in place (defective shortly after I bought it new). When it starts to come loose I always remove the old glue/epoxy and clean it up real good) and apply again. Pic 2 shows where I have been applying the epoxy right at the neck where the cap slides as far forward as it can (in its correct spot). Applying the epoxy here does a decent job, but in this scenario the cap is “fixed” to the propeller shaft and therefore the cap spins with it when the quad rolls. I always thought that is how it is supposed to be. Then last night looking more closely I realized when I pull the cap snugly into its correct position (kneeling from behind the Quad), the cap, letter “A” in pic 3 stays in place “fixed” on letter B, and doesn’t spin when the quad rolls (keep in mind the cap doesn't stay in place but a few feet before it comes loose which is why I need to fix it). Is the cap supposed to stay fixed and not spin? If so, I need to either 1) try a better epoxy than Dap Auto Marine silicone And/or put the glue on the perimeter of the Case Sub Assy (letter B) and slide the cap onto the glue and into position. Or, I was thinking do I try some high strength tape and just tape “A” to “B” (in pic 3) around the entire circumference and know I will need to replace it fairly often given it is going to get muddy and wet all the time, but maybe that is the path of least resistance? Wonder what this group of forum members would do if this was their quad? Please let me hear some advice and let me know how that cap is supposed to sit (fixed or spins). Thanks!
  9. Ghosta- if you are interested in the complete story, read the whole chain to see how I got into this predicament and made a bad situation worse for myself. General opinion was I needed to get it out for fear it was close to or touching the ring gear. Regardless- the bolt is out and this is no longer an issue. I was just trying to bring a close to the topic in the forum and thank everyone for the support.
  10. Ha! Fair enough. I thought I implied how, but I guess I did leave those details out without confirming. He drilled it and then used an easy out. I will make sure there was no other detail that is important to the story next time I see him. He said being in the business he’s in, he has seen his share of sheared and rusted bolts so he is well versed in the task. I think where I went wrong after looking at the bolt after it was removed was he drilled it much deeper than I did initially which allowed the easy out to bite better. He is confident the bolt never hit the ring gear at any point (by my first attempt way back when I first got into the mess by trying to drill it clockwise).
  11. Thought I would bring this post to a close with a decent outcome! See the photo attached...one broken "Check Bolt" removed! I called in a favor to the guy who I buy/service my power equipment with (doesn't normally work on ATV's) who I trust and he was able to get it out without having to take apart the rear diff. I am glad he got it with minimal damage to the bank account (relatively speaking). Only downside is I couldn't do what he was able to, but I learned a few valuable lessons here (namely don't over torque a rear differential check bolt ever again!). Anyway...Glad everything is in working order again so I wanted to let everyone know (especially since many said they thought it would spin out when done right...and it eventually did). Appreciate everyone's help on this site.
  12. Thank you very much for all the help. I will be back in touch with results! Might be a week or two until I can get to it but I will be sure to post what happens.
  13. I would say no...I don't believe it has turned at all so I don't think shavings are a problem...yet anyway.
  14. Cant tell you how impressed I am with peoples willingness to help- thank you! Here is a photo as best as I can get it. Should give you a feel for where I am. I am mostly confident the shavings you see are from the bolt and I have not hit the threads. I also think I am straight, but not certain. I say that because the shaft I am looking down is pretty narrow to know so its really hard to see the end point clearly, but when I look at my drill when I am drilling, it looks pretty centered where I am positioning the drill. The extractors I bought are of quality. Got them from Napa Auto and the guy told me its what his mechanics use. They are longer square shafted extractors (not those short "easy outs"- which wouldn't fit anyway). They are the square style ones with more of a pyramid tip (not the crayon tipped ones with ridges- guy said it was personal preference and he suggested the more "squared off ones". Maybe I just haven't drilled deep enough for the extractor to bite, but again, hard to know depth. The drill bit shavings seem damp with oil so I feel like oil is seeping which would make you think the bolt isn't extremely tight. I have the broken head and a replacement bolt to compare to so based on that I would say about 3/8 inch of bolt is inside. My guess is I have drilled less than half of it out (maybe 1/8" or so??). Yes- I am 100% sure I am in reverse on the drill:). Lastly, to respond to one other point made, I did drive the quad around my yard last night to test the operation (obviously before I got the post this AM) and the quad rides flawlessly- you would never know there was an issue. As for tools I have on hand- its the basics. Craftsman Socket set is 75 pieces with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drives. Largest sockets are 1" and 19mm. I have your other basic tools on hand, but no 30mm or impact. I do have a large pipe I could put over my 1/2" drive, but seems I would need some additional sockets if I take this on.
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