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Reebs

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  1. That's the last thing I want (bigger problems). However, my initial idea is not necessarily to clamp any part of the shield itself. The shield, when properly positioned as in the photo below, leaves the exact space shown in the photo (shiny steel area) and you can see the "old" JB Weld on the back "lip" of the shield. Where you see the JB weld, that is on 100% of the shield lip and none remains on the shaft itself). I can simply take my hand and pull the shield off that spot- there is nothing keeping the shield in place right now. So once you start riding, within seconds to maybe as long as a minute that shield rotates backwards and once it slides down on the narrower part of the shaft it just starts clanging and bouncing around (just wanted to paint a clear picture of what happens). All I need to do is keep it from being able to move off its intended spot in the photo. Since the shield rotates with the shaft, my idea was to simply put the hose clamp in what seems like the perfect space to allow for one, and butt it right against the shield lip and tighten it down. There would be no way for the shield to walk backwards with the clamp at its back edge. So the clamp would sit in the space where the blue arrow is in the photo. All I want to do is block the shield from moving (this is also why I suggested zip ties or even a thin wrapping of waterproof silicone tape in the same spot as ideas. The clamp only weighs 3/4oz and will weigh even less once I tighten it down, because I will cut off the excess tab once its tight. The shield doesn't need much force to be kept in its natural spot (again, mind boggling why Honda couldn't have solved this issue). To me, putting a clamp where the blue arrow is will allow the clamp to bite down perfectly smooth creating a tighter seal than if I grab part of the shields back edge. Make sense? Does this change your thoughts on the "balance" concern? A zip tie would be even lighter but I am not sure I can pull it tight enough to last (not eventually move) on the smooth metal shaft whereas I could get a hose clamp tighter and likely never move off the spot keeping the shield where it is supposed to be. Even the waterproof silicone tape that sticks to itself by wrapping could work...Thanks for all the help- I hope I clarified my ideas!
  2. Thanks Melatv. I think tack welding it would be a great solution and probably do the trick. Unfortunately, I don’t have a welder, but if I need to bring my ATV in for service in the future, that’s something I can ask them to do.
  3. Wilson, that’s a fair question on whether I ever hit a fixed object and I can honestly say I don’t think so. The shield fits really well in its space and is very protected by the skid plate under the rear differential. It’s protected nicely. That, combined with the fact the shield itself shows no signs of any wear and tear and it is in perfect condition throughout (with the exception of some leftover JB Weld on it that I applied). I am confident this is just poor design as it came off really early (within a few months) in my ownership of the machine which was purchased brand new.
  4. Totally agree. You'd think Honda could address this rather easily. I was actually just going to head outside and mess around with the ideas we've been talking about. I will post back at some point so any others that come across this thread have some feedback on them.
  5. Thanks again for the help. The shield doesn't seem to ever walk too far forward. If you pull it forward into its natural position, it seems to sit where it should until you take it for a ride. There seems to be a natural lip that is sits on (this, in my opinion is where Honda has a faulty design- its too easy for the shield to not stay in place). However, once you ride for a short distance the shield can "walk" backwards. I personally wouldn't buy a new shaft (even though it is not too expensive). The work to install a new one combined with the fact this seems to be a somewhat common occurrence with these, I would just think it would happen again. Going to look at minute mend, the zip tie idea and hose clamp just to see what might work best. If the zip tie or hose clamp are only band-aids, I am no worse off if they fail...but maybe they hold. Thanks!
  6. I don't think I would weld it- just more than I would get into (for my skillset). I think just adding a stainless steel hose clamp right behind it and cinching it real tight might do the trick, although TBRider suggestion is also a possibility (if I understand you right, back off the shield from its normal spot down to the thinner part of the shaft, crimp it down a bit and then wedge it back up to is normal position?). I still even think a zip tie might work unless the shaft is so smooth that eventually it will slide back, but even if it holds for a period of time, it would be a cheap band-aid from time to time. I will try a few of these ideas and see what happens. Thanks!
  7. Thanks for the replies! I thought welding it would be a solid idea, but that is a little outside of my wheelhouse
  8. Hey Everyone, I wanted to give an update to this post. I was out for a ride last weekend and heard a noise that was all too familiar- metal on metal clanging and I new immediately what it was before I had gotten off the ATV. The Splash Cover/Dust Cap had come free AGAIN. I was honestly very surprised because as you can see from the photos last September, I had applied a lot of the JB Weld (and a little overkill from what you guys told me back then lol). It had hardened so well back then it was like a fiberglass cast on a broken arm. I thought I had finally solved the problem, but it only lasted 6 months and I didn't even ride all that much over the winter. I can only assume it wasn't the right application or user error when I applied it maybe because there wasn't enough for the JB weld to "bite" onto. You can see in the updated photo below the remaining JB Weld is only on the cover itself allowing it to slide backward and slide all over the shaft again. So, now I am determined more than ever to win against this repeat issue. I came up with a few ideas and was curious to what you guys think. 1) Put a zip tie right at the back of the cover (concern would be this would just slide off over time unless I can pull it really tight) Cheap and maybe a simple fix though and I could just keep a few with me when I ride for a quick repair on the trail. 2) Put a hose clamp right on the back edge and tighten it down really good. 3) Wrap it with some Nashua Stretch & Seal self-fusing silicone tape (or maybe some weatherproof foil tape for HVAC ducts??). 4) Try JB Weld again, but since I thought it would last years and it didn't even last 7 months, I am not confident. Aside from several of you that will probably tell me to cut it off once and for all, I wondered what you thought of my other ideas?! I am leaning toward the hose clamp because there is about the perfect amount of space for it to sit right behind the cover. Thoughts? Thanks!
  9. Ok, good to know. I may do that. Nice to know I could improve the “professional look” if I wanted too!
  10. Haha...yeah, I’d say I put so much on I was going with the “more is better” mentality to hopefully solve this issue once and for all. I knew it was going on thick, but I wish I knew about the alcohol trick on the finger. Tough application laying under the quad trying to figure out how to apply that around the whole circumference. But unless you are really looking from the side above the tire, it’s not super noticeable. I’ll keep you posted!
  11. Here is a look at my JB Weld repair. Labor Day weekend was busy so I didn’t get to take it for a ride like I wanted to, but I wanted to at least get some photos posted. The JB Weld set up amazingly well (at least for me never having used it). The Dap auto/marine would work, but it was still softer to the touch even days after application which you can see why it would break down over time. The JB Weld looks and feels like it was the right repair...it is molded very well around the cap and the drive shaft and came out hardened and completely ridged. I am confident this should work. I’ll update after a ride or two and then again 6+ months from now. Thanks again for the help.
  12. Absolutely! I was definitely going to. Plan to take some picks this weekend for you. I applied the JB Weld Thursday night and didn’t touch it until last night. Haven’t ridden the quad yet, but from the looks of it and feel of it, it looks like it came out awesome. Wished I had used JB Weld from the get-go! Be in touch with more follow up. Appreciate your follow up too!
  13. Dealer/service dept said he had seen this before, but not often so he didn’t think it was super common. As several have already stated/confirmed it is supposed to spin with the drive shaft. I decided to try one more time and fix it so I bought the JB Weld today, mostly because I want to see if I can get it to hold longer than what I was using previously and based on your feedback, it should! Figured it was worth the $5 and a little more of my time and have the cap do what it was designed before I think about cutting it off. Appreciate everyone’s help...great forum here.
  14. Makes two of us! I am heading to my local dealer to ask. I want their take on why this happens, but I also want to see if they can definitively tell me if the cap is supposed to be fixed to the shaft and spin or to the rest on the rear diff and remain fixed (not spin). They don't have any Ranchers on hand in inventory where I could just go see it for myself, but I trust Service will know. I figure if I am going to try and JB Weld it, I mind as well glue it down in the right spot. I can report back what I learn.
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