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Howols

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Posts posted by Howols

  1. Posted · Edited by Howols

    Hi Pip,  I don't know if you have discount tool places like Harbor Freight in the UK, but I have a cheap fuel pump pressure gauge I bought from them years ago for about $10.https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html  I also thought my fuel pump on my 350 might be over pressuring the carb. I put a temporary "T" in between the pump and the carb and checked it. It was perfect. After much trial and error, I narrowed it down to the choke enrichment plunger. I had replaced the seal on it with one from my K&L carb kit, so I figured I was good. Turns out that the rubber seal at the bottom around the little pin was hardened and shrunk. I bit the bullet and bought the new OEM plunger assy and my carb problems were solved immediately. Do not underestimate the effect of an old plunger especially at idle. I would buy or borrow a fuel pump gauge instead of a Chinese fuel pump...

    • Like 3

  3. Posted

    12 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    did you adjust the clutch after you installed new disk ?, you must adjust the clutch every time you install new disk !. also its best to soak the disk in engine oil a good bit BEFORE you install them.

     Yep, clutch is adjusted and I soaked the discs overnight.  As I said, it is better now. I've only had time during the day to ride it for about 10 minutes so far. I have a feeling it will improve with more riding time.

  4. Posted

    OK. I replaced the frictions and steels with an EBC kit. I didn't use the stiffer springs.  Project went well. The side cover came loose easily with a slight tap with a rubber mallet. The gasket remained 100% intact and solid on the cover. The crankcase surface only had a small amount of Hondabond on it which came off with my fingernail. I replaced the 3 oil seals and 4 o-rings while I was there. Cleaned the gasket and crankcase surface well with brakeclean, put a tiny bead of Yamabond on the gasket, and it is sealed up tight as a drum. All super easy.  Now, as for shifting/clutch operation, it is better. Still not quite as cushy as I would expect, but I think it will improve when broken in a bit. I may try a part synthetic oil like Castrol Actevo 4T in it next oil change too.

  6. Posted

    1 hour ago, shadetree said:

    best tip: turn the atv on its left side about 45 degree's to make it easier to install the right side parts, this will make it a lot easier to sit all the parts back in, while installing the cover. WARNING !!!!! : BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN PULLING RIGHT SIDE COVER !, YOU MAY PULL THE KICK STARTER SHAFT OUT, AND DROP THE BACK END WASHER DOWN INTO THE LOWER ENGINE ?!!, try to keep the kick starter shaft pressed in, while you pull cover !!.

    Thanks!  I'll post back how it goes.

  8. Posted

    3 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    very well posb some of the friction plates are sticking !?!.

    Thanks shadetree. I take it you've seen this before? 🙂   Glancing at the manual, it doesn't look too tough to throw some new plates into it.  Anything I might need other than a gasket and a couple of seals?

  9. Posted

    8 hours ago, shadetree said:

    has this atv sat up for a long time ??, if it has ?, chances are, the plates ( friction ) maybe sticking/stuck together, this will make shifting gears hard.

    Yessir. It sat for about 25 years. It does disengage when I shift though. I can hold the lever up or down in any gear and rev the engine freely.  Maybe some but not all the plates are sticking?

     

  11. Posted

    To me it feels like a hard engagement when shifting while riding.  I would expect slowly releasing the shift lever would be similar to slowly releasing a manual clutch lever, but it isn't at all.  It engages all at once.  Maybe that's normal. I've never ridden another one.

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