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  1. Hi Pip, I don't know if you have discount tool places like Harbor Freight in the UK, but I have a cheap fuel pump pressure gauge I bought from them years ago for about $10.https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html I also thought my fuel pump on my 350 might be over pressuring the carb. I put a temporary "T" in between the pump and the carb and checked it. It was perfect. After much trial and error, I narrowed it down to the choke enrichment plunger. I had replaced the seal on it with one from my K&L carb kit, so I figured I was good. Turns out that the rubber seal at the bottom around the little pin was hardened and shrunk. I bit the bullet and bought the new OEM plunger assy and my carb problems were solved immediately. Do not underestimate the effect of an old plunger especially at idle. I would buy or borrow a fuel pump gauge instead of a Chinese fuel pump...
  2. Yes, the 1986 has the black plugs.
  3. Yep, clutch is adjusted and I soaked the discs overnight. As I said, it is better now. I've only had time during the day to ride it for about 10 minutes so far. I have a feeling it will improve with more riding time.
  4. OK. I replaced the frictions and steels with an EBC kit. I didn't use the stiffer springs. Project went well. The side cover came loose easily with a slight tap with a rubber mallet. The gasket remained 100% intact and solid on the cover. The crankcase surface only had a small amount of Hondabond on it which came off with my fingernail. I replaced the 3 oil seals and 4 o-rings while I was there. Cleaned the gasket and crankcase surface well with brakeclean, put a tiny bead of Yamabond on the gasket, and it is sealed up tight as a drum. All super easy. Now, as for shifting/clutch operation, it is better. Still not quite as cushy as I would expect, but I think it will improve when broken in a bit. I may try a part synthetic oil like Castrol Actevo 4T in it next oil change too.
  5. Could be the choke plunger not sealing well. I had the same problem and a new OEM plunger fixed it.
  6. Thanks! I'll post back how it goes.
  7. Got the shop cleaned out today and now have enough room to work. Planning to remove the right side cover and check out the change clutch later this week. Any tips besides what's in the manual?
  8. Thanks shadetree. I take it you've seen this before? 🙂 Glancing at the manual, it doesn't look too tough to throw some new plates into it. Anything I might need other than a gasket and a couple of seals?
  9. Yessir. It sat for about 25 years. It does disengage when I shift though. I can hold the lever up or down in any gear and rev the engine freely. Maybe some but not all the plates are sticking?
  10. To me it feels like a hard engagement when shifting while riding. I would expect slowly releasing the shift lever would be similar to slowly releasing a manual clutch lever, but it isn't at all. It engages all at once. Maybe that's normal. I've never ridden another one.
  11. Clutch is adjusted to spec. Screw turned CCW until resistance felt, then CW 1/4 turn.
  12. OK, so my change clutch disengages when shifting and when the shift lever is held up or down, BUT... no matter how slowly the lever is released, the clutch re-engages HARD. Is this normal? Seems like there should be a little cush or slip, no?
  13. Howols

    Found it!

    Great to see all the familiar names here!
  14. Another tip is that a Dorman 351556 wheel cylinder kit (cups and dust boots) fits pretty much every TRX350-650, 86 and up that uses drum brakes. Can be had for about $3.99 per wheel. Works perfect.
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