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freebo86

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  1. One ahead of you bud, took plug out last night it was a bit wet at the very end of the threads. Put it against frame there is sparks. Took the plug that the bike came with (has been sitting my drawer for 2months) same spark size etc. Stuck that in, still no fire. went out this morning. Bike started fine. So it’s a warm starting issue.
  2. Well, cleaned the carb and reinstalled in. Bike fired up like perfectly, strong start and all. let it idle for a few minutes an engine sounds healthy. No noise. The below video is seconds after I started it, never touched throttle. I will say, video camera amplifies the sound it sounds bad on the phone in person it doesn't sound like anything. Took it for a spin, seems to run good. Still has the tikiti/takati sound once its driven... drove around the block, pulled into driveway. turn it off at this points its warm. it won't start for the life of me. Crank, crank, crank nothing.. - So, it won't start when warm. - Idling there at 1700.. I adjust the idle screw.. it maintains around there, hit the throttle it blips up.. then comes down to like 1100.. WTF is going on. Pulling my hair out here... 😪
  3. Yes sir. Got a compressor and I will do that part as well, also have carb cleaner on hand.
  4. Thanks, appreciate the words of encouragement! Want to invest financially now to help me out? 😝 I did. After that R&R I checked my repair at the time to see if the exhaust system had leaks anywhere by plugging the rear muffler hole with a rag while engine running, the bike started to starve itself and was about to die. So I think we can rule out any sort of exhaust leaks? With a leak, the pressure would just leak out elsewhere and engine would keep running, no? I can tomorrow. The recoil starter is already pulled. So turn the crank clockwise, watch for valve opening, that is the adjusting end/where the spring is starts moving up towards me. Right? At that point go 2-3 degrees counter clockwise and watch what happens. Spent this evening pulling carb and taking it apart. Surprisingly for a 17 year old bike, the unit was very clean inside. There was mud caked on the exterior, that I cleaned off using a toothbrush and gas. Then went to work inside of it. The jets and everything looked good, the slow jet looked like it had something in it. Its all soaking now in some gas overnight and tomorrow I will clean it thoroughly to put back together. I followed along the service manual, checked the diaphragm and it also looked was flawless, no tears and it moved freely. I measured the pilot screw and it was about 2.5 turns out, so almost just a bit less than spec calls for 2-5/8s and it very well could have been 2-5/8s.
  5. You guys missed the below sentence? Listen to the engine starting at about 1:25minutes. Do you hear then still? From my video post on that page.
  6. Well if I rock that rocker back and forth as in towards the valve and back it has movement (the gap I set obviously gives it room to move), every video I saw for doing valve adjustment it seemed like this is perfectly normal? No wear marks on them. Not my photo, but this is what the underside would look like. Where exactly am I looking for anything odd? It is friend. I fired up the bike this morning before heading out, to hear it sound and see. It starts beautifully, better than before actually. Runs dead quiet. I tap the throttle and the black smith gets to work. Or as @Fishfiles says on the road to a disaster.. Even at one point yesterday, after taking it for a spin around the block. Pulling in, the idle settled and the engine sounded healthy...but then the black smith comes and goes to work.. he's not a consistent worker.
  7. Can you be more specific what you mean by rocker arms? Again, engine terminology I am not too familiar with. You mean these circled? Lack of lubrication wouldn’t that have caused a disastrous failure at this point of ownership?
  8. What’s that mean, wore on the pins? There no noise at all until it warmed up a bit. Doesn’t sound as catastrophic as we first maybe has all believed or maybe questioned?
  9. So you talking just gasket or a full rebuilt (jets etc..)? I see price ranges from $15 and up. What particular brand? All Balls? Moose? Shindy?
  10. Will check around exhaust tomorrow. So the symptoms I outlined tie back to the carb.. What's the course of action to take here, remove it and clean it out & boil it. Or should it just be done with a rebuild kit? Recommendations?
  11. It's good, its a learning experience! So, I made some headway. After waiting for the replies to start rolling in, I decided to put it back together at .006 and see if I check for vacuum leaks. I checked the hoses around the carb and made sure all clamps are tight. The results? Well its been sitting OFF for 24hours and its COLD here, it started up pretty easy and good. It sounded really good too actually. No noise from engine at all. Like solid. The video below is 3minutes of the cold start, for the first minute of it running where it sounds like its jugging, I forgot my CHOKE is ON after a while so once I pushed that back in it smoothed out even nicer. The second video is after a few minutes where the noise starts, but after riding the bike around the block it seems that the noise get's quieter. Am I crazy to think the way it sounds is okay and normal? Now.. the valve noise came on after a bit, but it didnt seem as noisy as the other night. I kept checking the tach meter for RPM and I can't seem to dial it in. Few things happening on the teachmeter for RPM reading; 1) I shift into gear and move, as I come to stop the RPM drops below the the IDLE setpoint I felt I had and bike wants to die or dies.. 2) If it's idling and I hit the throttle the RPM goes up but seems to stick before it comes down and may drop further below than it even was before. 3) Riding along, ie. going 4th, as I am coming down in speed I shift into 3rd let's say, I hit the throttle to accelerate out of the turn or what it may be and its if there is no speed until all of a sudden it picks up (this issue was there beforel all this started, almost as if the throttle is delayed (lack of fuel?)) 4) After tonight that it warmed up, it was harder to start. I took my carb cleaner spray and was spraying around the carb as it was running to see if any change in noise to test for vacuum but no changes. I think if I can dial the IDLE in, and actually let the bike warm up and take it for a longer ride, I did quick spin around the block for a couple of minutes and when I pulled into the garage it actually sounded and ran pretty good besides the IDLE being a bit wonky. Thoughts? Fuel/Air issue with the Carb? Another way to test for vacuum leaks? Thanks again guys! I think I may be getting somewhere? Cold Start. This is after a few minutes.
  12. So set it at .006, the gap maintained through the strokes except when the adjuster starts pushing the valve back down is when it tightens the gap and stays that way until it starts to open. But then the gap starts to again and maintains to .006”. This is for both intake and exhaust. Removing the recoil certainly helped turning using a socket. what’s next to check?
  13. Yes and no. After the very first valve adjustment, I turned it on and it ran ‘okay’ the rattle concerned me so I messed with the idle screw. Ever since, it hasn’t been the same and I can’t fine tune it.. Spray starter fluid where?
  14. Those are not set in the photos. I had just put them back on after removal to look at the ends for inspecting.
  15. Confirmed it’s right, as I installed a new filter right after purchase. I know in my other thread I took apart the exhaust to fix the baffle. I tested my repair back then by putting my hand over the end and was seeing if exhaust was gonna blow/leak somewhere else due to a poor repair but the engine started stalling out, as it was suffocating so I think the exhaust is tight?
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