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freebo86 last won the day on March 19

freebo86 had the most liked content!

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  1. What’s with limiting to no stock on ATV tires? Is this the after effect of COVID finally taking a toll on supplies and manufacturers not able to keep supply?
  2. yah, maybe getting replacement boards is the best approach. I do like that idea. May get the feet a bit dirtier but maybe these could be found fairly cheap in classifieds.
  3. There is two places that a hose connects to on that air cut off valve... both locations goes to opposite side of the carb. which one are you referring to?
  4. the holder is there. From memory it threads in so not sure how it could fall out? Does it matter which vacuum line I pull out to plug? It connects on either side of the carb.
  5. Build this. What do guys do about the foot wells? One of mine is severe cracked. Are these sturdy enough to actually source replacements or should I think of something else? Also any foot well from other models fit on a 450?
  6. Playing with the pilot screw does alter the idle. But it almost seems like it’s at the extreme on both ends. Like wide open (almost fully out) or almost fully in.. Which holder are you referring to? The white plastic little piece that sort of just sits around the main jet?
  7. So since I got the ATV I’ve spent a fair bit of time underneath it.. and I found it odd that the skid plate ended short before the shift motor and that the front portion wasnt really protected. After closer inspection I realized that it appeared that the skid plate wasnt quite complete and he broke part of it off. The two front mounts were ripped off (nuts gone), the OEM plate was held on by the 3 rear most bolts. So out came the grinder and some 16 gauge metal. Once I get my gas back for my welder I plan on trying to reweld the two broken nuts on. For the time being this thing is held at the very front mounts and I welded on some side tabs that bolt onto where the footwell rails go. For the rear this thing slides above the OEM plate by about 2-3”. I drilled the two holes out in anticipation for when I fix the OEM mount location. The other random hole in the front end is for front diff drain. Excuse my make shift paint both. primer drying before we hit it with black.
  8. At TDC compression couple of things you will note, - You can wiggle the valves a bit back and forth by hand. On exhaust stroke TDC they will be very tight. - your cam lobes will pointing down. Sequence of events as you turn the flywheel or pull the starter rope: exhaust valve opens, exhaust valve closes - T shows up but this is exhaust stroke. intake valve opens, intake valve closes, T shows up again. This is compression. Run through turning the flywheel and watch the valves for a few revolution and you’ll get it bang on which stroke is what. Took me a while too. Are you able to get a reading across the battery on your bench? with the ATV cabling completely removed? If no, battery is toast and probably internally shot. If it it works on bench but not ATV then I’d say some cabling is fried that’s breaking your connection. Most likely a ground.
  9. So I noticed the brakes on the front felt a bit spongy, so my curious self decided to open the master cylinder and see what’s going on and inspect the brakes. Well the front brakes are shot, the PO installed Disc Brakes upfront (Quadrax). The master cylinder fluid looked fairly dark and looked dirty. In the process of trying to loosen the two Phillips screws at the top I stripped one to the point it had to be drilled out to remove the cover, the other I managed to pull out barely. Got new pads off Amazon, we’ll see how long they last. The fluid I sucked up from the cylinder and cleaned it out, then filled with new DOT3 and pumped and bled the brakes till new fluid came out. Handle now feels much firmer and grabs right away. Old pads, basically none left.. The “guide pin” if we can call it that... Cleaned up well, applied a bit of grease over it also. For the screws I went to Home Depot, they didn’t have M4x.70 pitch in my store. Closest I found was 8x32. I grabbed a couple of those in stainless steel. Got home and used my Tap&Die set and cut the screws to a M4x.70 pitch to fit into the master cylinder. The 8x32 are just a bit thicker so there is some ‘meat’ on them to allow you to cut them to the M4 thread type. At this point the machine has new fluids all around. I got another update as I’m in the process of painting something I build for the ATV. We’ll see what you guys say.
  10. Yes, oem carb. 2.5 turns out. Cable is smooth moving. Already checked this out.
  11. OEM carb, checked the number on it that it’s in fact the OEM one. @retro confirmed this a while back with me. Carb has been cleaned and rebuild (shindy kit). Plunger is OEM Honda from the dealer. Cable is smooth moving. I checked it as well. unless something with the enrichment passages is still a bit buggered/blocked?
  12. Thanks. The plug is wet and dark when I try to start it and it won’t actually start. So it’s getting fuel. So if the enrichment valve isn’t sealing good against the carb bore you would think it would still start? Because when I remove the enrichment valve completely it runs and I feel the air sucking in the carb bore where it was. So with the enrichment removed it’s getting extra air, no? I will try and lean out the mixture and grab the other type of sparkplug
  13. Thats a good memory. The one I "fixed" has held up for the past 500 or so miles. Brake works too lol. But I am still on the hunt for one locally.
  14. Something else I noticed, I am running spark plug DPR6EA-9 which is rated for cold climates. The standard plug is rated for DPR7EA-9. Don’t think this will make a difference but should I maybe switch plugs anyways and go with the standard?
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