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  1. By the way, they have Castrol GTX 20w50 for $19.32 for a 5 qt bottle at walmart, which is about what mine takes. So, not bad.
  2. I definitely wont have time to touch it today and probably not tomorrow, possibly Wednesday after work. I do want to pull that part completely off and see if there is any sort of check valve in it. I also want to open the cap for a few seconds before I turn it off hot and a few other things.
  3. Now that's an interesting thought. While I bought this mower new, I don't know if that part with the filter is open or has some sort of check valve in it which might be malfunctioning. In the parts listing I linked above, unlike the manual it's called a "vacuum breaker," whatever that is.
  4. I've not noticed any hissing sounds that I recall. And I think I've switched tanks right before cutting it off or opened the gas cap to test what your getting at but not 100% sure. I'll see if there are any changes when I cut next weekends grass.
  5. Been reading some... Apparently after '11 or '12 they all had some sort of emission doodad on them. My mower is a '13. Some, maybe later ones have charcoal canisters. I finally found a listing for that part, btw https://www.hustlerlawnmowerparts.com/hustler-part-603024/ pricey. Speaking of pricey, it's time I change the hydraulic filters and fluid for the transaxles. $35 for two hydro gear brand filters from amazon (that mower has a pair of hydro gear zt-3100 transaxles). Fortunately, the original recommended fluid was castrol 20-50 motor oil in the transaxles.
  6. Well I dug through the owners manual and apparently it is a “fuel evaporation system filter”. And apparently it is supposed to be replaced every 300 hours. I used my best google-fu but could not find a part listing for it. I just kept coming up with the fuel filter. So I took it off and cleaned the two little filters in it and put it back. See pic. They were almost totally caked up before that pic. As to whether the caps are vented, I don’t know. There’s a pic below. They’re like a car in that when you tighten them, they start clicking. Also in that pic you can see two fuel lines from each tank. The larger 1/4” lines go to the tank selector/fuel shut off valve. The 1/8” lines go to that little evap filter. And then there’s a T in the 1/8 in line and the T’d line goes up and plugs in the side of the carb, so I guess it’s some epa thing where the engine burns vapors from the tank, so maybe they’re not vented other than that filter???
  7. Does anyone know what this thing in the picture is? It appears to be in a fuel line?? A vent maybe??
  8. It ran good, not a real noticeable difference. After mowing the last of my grass, I let it idle a bit and cut it off. I tried to restart it hot. It would not start. I pulled the choke. It started. I pushed the choke off and it would idle and run fine up to about half throttle. Over that, it wouldn't plane out and would puff kinda black smoke and run poorly. It has done that on a number of hot start occasions in the past. Oddly, one of my friends and his dad bought 2 of the exact same mowers with the same engine as mine at roughly the same time as mine. They have roughly the same hours on theirs' and probably don't take care of them as well as I do mine. They do not experience this issue.
  9. Right. But needed to be done I reckon. The gasket didn’t break on cyl no 1, the left one so I didn’t replace that one. Hope it doesn’t leak - really tight workspace there. I wasn’t too fond of how these valves adjusted. Just a lock nut where the rocker pivots and apparently the pivot is cammed. Not what I was expecting. off to see if it runs differently...
  10. No. I measured in inches, not mm. They were .014-.016 inches. Huge gaps, relatively speaking. They were .356 to .406 mm. just did the other side. They were off about the same putting it back together now
  11. Well I won’t know if this is the issue for a bit yet but I just took off the rear valve cover (right if you’re looking so one cyl in on your left and one is on your right). At tdc on the comp stroke the intake valve is .014 and the exhaust is .015-.016. Book says .004-.006 for each. The front one is going to be harder to get to. It’s a tighter working space.
  12. LedFTed I cleaned all the rust off the magnets. Wilson, I’ll give your running it dry scenario a try. My valve cover gaskets should be in tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to check the valves this weekend. BTW, since new this machine has never had one drop of ethanol gas in it - always ethanol free in my outdoor stuff. The ethanol free gas available around here is 87 octane.
  13. I still remember (barely) the old aluminum deck mowers. When I was a kid one of the mowers that my grandparents had had the a cast aluminum deck. I’m not sure of the brand but it was similar to this Firestone: http://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2012/06/firestone-lawnmower.html?m=1
  14. I cleaned the fins really good yesterday when the shroud was off and they weren’t very dirty at all. I can wrap the lines. I wonder why is it doing it and why it has gotten worse.
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