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DLBeltran74

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  1. Yeah, I looked at that one. It has a crack
  2. Does anyone know where to get a crank case for a 2004 Honda TRX 250 EX for a really good price? I just need the front half but I read somewhere the halves shouldn’t be mismatched. Not too sure about that. But as mentioned in my previous post, I had a broken bolt in my crank case. I too it to a machine shop but they couldn’t get it out. So I said the heck with it and tried getting it out myself. BIG MISTAKE! I ended up damaging the threads and puncturing a hole at the bottom of the place where the broken bolt goes. So I’m guessing it will be beyond fixing. I would rather purchase a cheap used one with no cracks or damage. If anyone has information about where I can locate one, I’d really appreciate it! By the way, half the bolt is still stuck in the hole!!!! 🤦🏻‍♂️
  3. Ok…..I took it to a machine shop. He tried getting it out by welding a nut to it and taking it out that way. BUT……it didn’t work. So my only option it to drill it out and replace the threads or replace the casing. I really do not want to spend the money on a new casing. I looked online for a used one but I can’t find one anywhere. I found a couple of new ones but the are running about $400. Not even a option. Is there any type of guide or something that can help me drill out the broken bolt and do the heli coil thing. Those are my options. If anyone has or knows of a place I can get a really cheap casing, I would appreciate it.
  4. Ok folks, I have a 2004 Honda TRX 250 EX SportsTrax I’m working on. I removed the top end and when doing so, one of the bolts snapped off flush with the engine. I center punched it and started drilling it out with a small bit. It was going great. Until…..I switched to a bigger drill bit. Once I went up in size on the bit, it started drilling to the side. I may have damaged the threads but I can’t really tell at this point. So….now I am trying to extract the bolt without breaking the extracting tools in the drilled hole. I’ve used both kinds. I used the square ones and the spiral looking ones. All they seem to be doing is get super tight but don’t remove the bolt. I don’t want to force it more than I have because I don’t want it to snap off in the drilled hole. I have tried applying heat and PB Blaster and it still doesn’t want to come out. I tried using a left handed drill bit but I can’t tell if it’s drilling the bolt or the aluminum. I am getting pretty worried I’m messing up the threads. I’m pretty sure I’ll have to re-thread the hole with a bigger size once it’s out but I can’t figure out how to get it out of the hole. Does anyone know of a tool that can help me re-drill the hole in the center. Like some type of guide. My patients are wearing thin and I really don’t want to force it. I’ve broken two extracting tools in the past trying to remove broken bolts and I swore to never mess with this kind of stuff again. Should I just take it to a machine shop and let them do it? Also, if I did mess up the threads, is that the end of that hole size? Is there a way a machine shop can reconstruct the hole and re-thread it with the original size bolt hole? Can someone please pass on some info for this. It’s freaking me out! TIA!!!
  5. Ok folks, I have these two gems. They aren’t Hondas but they are the next best thing! Free!!!! I already have them running and driving. But my issue is, I can not find a manual to down for FREE! I will not buy one. The info I need is important but not that important. I can find out everything I need to know online. I just want the manual, just to have. Does anyone know where I can find that. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  6. Yes, I replaced all the top end gaskets. I tightened them to spec. Well, what the book had. So, now I’m just confused on why it would be leaking from there.
  7. Yes, same one. It’s a 2004 Honda Foreman TRX 450 FM. Sorry about that.
  8. Ok, sorry to bother everyone but I have a new issue. I just got it running. Idles great. I noticed white smoke coming off the top of the engine and thought maybe it was suppose to do that during break in time. But I’ve had it running for a while and it’s still snoozing. I looked at the valve cover and noticed a little oil seeping from the lower two bolts. Took it off and the lower left acorn nut also has oil leaking from there. Should I order new acorn nuts and washer and a valve cover gasket and new valve cover bolts or what? Please help. I don’t know how long I can smell this oil burning.
  9. How do I know if it’s at tdc on the compression stroke? I have the T mark showing in the hole and the exhaust valve is tight and the intake valve is loose. Is that right?
  10. I never went that far down into the motor. I bought it needing the top end. From the top everything on the inside looked to be in great condition. It switched into all the gears so I didn’t feel I need to go any further.
  11. Hello folks, I have a problem. I just rebuilt the top end on my 450 Foreman and I am not getting compression. I read in the book about some compression valve nut or some crap like that, but it doesn’t show me where it is. Can someone please post a picture showing me where it is? Also, no compression, I put the t at the hole and adjusted my valves. And still no compression. Am I suppose to rotate the engine one more time and line up the t and adjust my valves again then try a compression test. I read somewhere that it is engine is suppose to rotate twice on some stroke before adjusting the valves. Can someone help me out. First build and already annoyed!
  12. Will do, I’ll check it out tomorrow. So another question. What will the valves feel like it the mark is showing. I have to valves, one on intake side and one on exhaust side. If I can see the timing mark will both valves have play or tight? Or one tight and one loose?
  13. Ok, now I remember what I didn’t do. I know I didn’t take that plug out to verify it was at tdc when I adjusted the valves. If I didn’t do that, would that prevent the quad from starting?
  14. Ok, I just put a new top end on it with a new carb. I new went below the piston. It was suppose to have been a runner before the piston/ring damage. But I replace the damaged stuff and never knew I had to make sure the timing was correct. So would I have to pull the whole engine and tear it all the way down to check the timing?
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