Goober

No but the starter switch could be stuck. Really have to get into the schematic to see, but basically there are two circuits. The low amp ignition circuit is used to energize the high amp starter motor. ok, when you turn the ignition key, you’re energizing a portion of the ignition circuit. The starter circuit is completed only by first pushing the starter button. so, I would disconnect the starter first—at the solenoid. Find the big wire coming off the starter, follow it up to the solenoid, and disconnect it. will make it easier to find out what is causing the solenoid to become energized when the master switch is on. If you’re hearing a loud click from the solenoid as soon as you turn the key, then you’ll know something’s wrong. then power off. You’re gonna have to remove the front fender to check for a short in the left hand multi switch. Follow the ignition circuit diagnostics—should be chapter 20 or thereabouts

Ranger EV made in Huntsville Alabama from what I’ve found

Other thing that will cause leak: you didn’t use a rebuild kit. Are you sure the carb bowl seal and drain screw seal aren’t leaking? If the overflow stem into bowl is cracked that will also cause leak out carb drain

What’s the history? Been sitting a long time? oxidation on that brass seat. Floats can deform after sitting a long time but not usually

It’s possible to weld it but might be less expensive to buy a used one.

The manual says to look carefully for and avoid scratches. the floats should be nonadjustable. i would use a cotton swab wetted with carb cleaner to ensure the seat is clean. did you use a Honda float valve? careful! Those seats are not replaceable! it is possible you need a new float. I recommend Honda, Shindy or K&L float valves.

If you want to completely remove the rust, i use cleaning vinegar and BBs. Cleaning vinegar is usually a little higher acidity. My tank looked like yours and had a rubber glove, a screwdriver and something else in there. you may not be able to do this until you get the holes sealed: i remove tank cap and petcock. i pour in a pound of BBs and 2/3s volume of the tank with vinegar. Then i seal up the tank, wrap it in bubble wrap, then put it in a cardboard box, and then wedge the box in my cement mixer. i run the cement mixer for 3 hours, about halfway thru i reposition the tank so BBs work a different area. The BBs loosen the rust flakes and polish the tank interior. You can remove the BBs with a magnet. I rinse the cleaned tank with water that has the pH adjusted high using spa chemicals—otherwise the tank surface will get flash rust. Then i dry with a hair dryer but not so hot that it will discolor the paint. Hot air goes in tank and comes out petcock. so if you still have fuel vapors in your tank, using a hair dryer could ignite them!! Should be able to successfully apply the POR 15 sealant after tank is cleaned. I had no holes but had to repaint my tank anyway. Here’s my tank after two washings. Then i rinse out the tank with some gasoline to flush any trace of spa chemicals or other fines.

As of late March We were told Honda hadn’t shipped any Pioneer 700 or 520. Dealer didn’t even get a price list until late February.

Well I wanted a 2022 Honda 520 for a shop quad. I wanted simple! No power steering, doors, glass. Well aint none available! Long story short, got a Ranger EV. It runs just as good as our 08 Ranger 500, but quiet! I mean like a 4x4 golf cart!! I’d like to have one for a personal hunting rig! It has a 35-40 mile range. probably enough to find trouble but not enough for a return trip!

Here’s a good looking tank for ya

I like the idea to paint if they will hold paint. I would def powder coat the wheels to a silver. But that would run over $200.

Thanks for the pic. Yes, bit of a project. You ay it was your Dad’s? Runs OK? whats that big bar attached to the rear carrier? I didn’t see any big cracks but with all the sun damage I’m sure they’re brittle. If not i would remove the fenders and try some plastic polish like Novus #2 and a buffer. Before you start wrenching on it, spray every nut and bolt with Deep Creep. Use your best 6 point sockets and cross-point bits to remove. put hardware you remove into ziplock bags with cards labeling what they go to. Each time you remove a single part, the hardware goes into a separate bag. mainly I’d be patient—looking for fenders—and then wrenching on it. Maybe you’ll be able to find that rare set of Cosmic Grey OEM fenders

Check the OEM parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla. You can search by your VIN to ensure you get correct parts. You can then cross reference and or search the part numbers you need to other models. here’s my 93 FW ready for some catfishing!

Not much at Power Sports Nation. https://www.powersportsnation.com/used-parts.html?search=&year=1988&make=Honda&model=FourTrax 300&order=final_price&dir=desc&category=Brands > Honda&page=3 I don’t think 2WD/4WD front fenders are interchangeable

Here’s a Left one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-1988-1995-TRX300-Splash-Guard-L-61866-HC4-000ZA-/401395161895?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0