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DeTaylor

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Posts posted by DeTaylor


  1. 1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said:

    Most likely the shift plate on the front is busted.

     

    Unbolt front diff and slide it forward so you can remove the front driveshaft.  Then stand up on rear rack (turn gas petcock off first), unbolt fan and swing it out of the way, unbolt front cover, and see what you find.

     

    My guess will be something similar to what I found in this 500.  Local guy had a 350 stuck in a gear a couple of weeks ago and it was a broken shift plate.

     

     

    It is a 2WD, so shouldnt have to pull anything except the fan and cover. Thanks for the input and resource! I'll give it a read tonight. 

    • Like 3

  2. 41 minutes ago, AKATV said:

    The 01-03 Rancher 350 does not flash the gear indicator for fault codes, only the 2004-2006 models do that

    For 500 you cant really go wrong if the rest is in pretty good shape and it starts and runs well  (engine)

    ( I would still try offering less...  350? lol....you never know)

    My thoughts are

    -Shift "star" screw loose

    -Shift gate crack

    -shift drum rear end snapped off (fairly common)

    If it is the shift drum, they make an upgraded drum, or you can get a used one on ebay

    just make sure it had the the correct larger rear stub. All you have to do is knock out old bearing

    where the original smaller shift drum end fit and insert the new one. Its larger/stronger and does not use a bearing, 

    It just slides into and rides directly on the case)

    Even if you do have to pull the engine out and tear it down, it really is not that hard

    Plus you will be able to inspect, service and replace anything else and clean the cases out

    It will be sure to last a long time after that as well

    I always tear my project purchases down anyways, as you never really know if its been sunk or not...

    Hope you get it and its an easy fix-

    Looking forward to hearing more

    AKATV

     

    That seals the deal for me! Now just have to find a place to work on it this winter lol garage is already full. 


  3. Hey Everyone, 

     

    I'm looking at buying a project bike and have a question before I go in over my head. I can get the machine for $500 and its in good shape considering the year. 

     

    It is an 01 Rancher 350 ES 2wd (5300 miles/530 hours) and is stuck in 3rd gear. The gear is not flashing on the display and the foot shifter does not do anything - frozen in place. My first thought is either shift plate or shift motor. Thoughts?  


  4. 2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

    I took the number you posted , copy and pasted it to my search engine , 1/2 a dozen  popped up   -------    one was NOS , it was pretty expensive , $128 plus $93 shipping and tax , another was $199 free shipping , not all bent up but needs a paint job , 

    I called about 20 different companies that claimed to have them in stock - NOS being one of them and they didn’t actually have any. 
     

    can you post the link to the $199 one you found? I don’t see that anywhere. 


  5. Hey everyone, 

     

    I'm on the search for the front piping/bars for a 2005 Honda Rancher 350 ES (TRX350FE). These are backordered indefinitely from Honda and no one seems to have them in stock. 

     

    Part number: 81150-HN5-N00ZA or 81150-HN5-000ZA

     

    I'm perfectly fine with surface rust, as long as it isn't completely bent out of shape. 

     

    If anyone has any leads on one, let me know please. 

     

    thanks!


  6. 1 hour ago, shadetree said:

    the brake lines run in the back of the shocks anyway on this foreman, as that is where the calibers should mount. with the bleeder screws on the top side ( as per the info online ), the banjo line end would not reach the caliber without being very tight ?, and blocking the bleeder screw on the caliber ?, then i had the issue with the line rubbing the end of the outer tie rod on top of the knuckle. all of this was tried without even attaching the upper line to the top a-arm ?!..there was no way to bolt it all up without the line not rubbing ?, or room to get to the bleeder screw ?, so i'm sending it back.

    I forgot to mention that you have to flip the brackets for the lines as well. Hope this helps!

    57842EFC-3BA0-46BD-A12D-BDD2D4BED532.jpeg

    0822B5C4-3C4F-42EB-81F4-B2EE8977B89E.jpeg

    F38B37DB-2411-4958-B969-FCB13565A22D.jpeg


  7. 1 hour ago, shadetree said:

    the brake lines run in the back of the shocks anyway on this foreman, as that is where the calibers should mount. with the bleeder screws on the top side ( as per the info online ), the banjo line end would not reach the caliber without being very tight ?, and blocking the bleeder screw on the caliber ?, then i had the issue with the line rubbing the end of the outer tie rod on top of the knuckle. all of this was tried without even attaching the upper line to the top a-arm ?!..there was no way to bolt it all up without the line not rubbing ?, or room to get to the bleeder screw ?, so i'm sending it back.

    I had this same issue at first. Give me 30 min and I can grab some pictures for you. 


  8. 2 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    how did you get the brake lines on the foreman to reach the brake caliber, with out rubbing any where ?, and stretching the crap out of it ?, i ask this, cuz when i tried to install this super atv brake kit to this '02 trx450fm, i ran into this very problem !. now i gotta send it back. gonna head out to my buds place and have a look at a trx500 rubi es he has, if it has front disk brakes ?, i'm gonna take them off, bring them home, and install them on this '02 trx450fm. was told by jeep that i will have to swap out the whole knuckle at the ball joint ?, but ..hey..whats another day of work...right ?..lol.

    The line is VERY close to rubbing but does not and no extra stretch. You have to reroute the brake line to the back side of the shock. 


  9. Project is coming along nicely! Got just about everything knocked off the list. I’m only a few items left. Left fender flare, bend out front rack and paint, screen protector for meter, and lastly I caved and ordered the rear disc brake from superatv. 

    3CF6496E-9634-4563-B8E4-A69050B1BFD3.jpeg

    9C1FD06B-6C94-42F4-BC70-172D304A7974.jpeg

    502BD834-BF23-4420-B3EF-2207D99A7D36.jpeg


  10. On 8/18/2022 at 5:42 AM, Fishfiles said:

    $239 minus 10% is about $215 , a lot better than Highlifter for $375 

     

    Call on the phone to place the order  , if they give you any problem , tell them talk to Eric about  the discount 

     

    https://www.superatv.com/honda-rancher-front-disc-brake-kit

    Hey Fish, I gave SuperAtv a call and they said there was no discount code for our forum. I spoke with Erin. 


  11. 13 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

    400AT front diff swap where you have selectable 4wd is a good one.

     

    420 disc brakes from 07-13 will bolt on at the ball joints

    Both of those sound very intriguing. Anything else needed for the disc swap? Disc, pad, caliper and bracket I’m assuming. 


  12. Picked up a project 2005 Honda Rancher ES 350 today. Snagged it for $900 - running and driving. 

     

    Needs a couple things:

    New meter - this meter is far beyond repait sadly. AKATV is already on the prowl!

    Handle bars are slightly bent - assuming its been rolled in the past. Was able to bend it back to about 90%. May just leave it like this for a while unless it bothers me more

    Both rear fender flares - Was able to sort the right from powersportsnation, but cannot find a left yet

    Angle sensor - Powersportsnation for the win

    Front brakes - once i get everything else sorted, i'll be be getting the disc break conversion from SuperATV

    New Tires - on the way already

    Front skid plate needs to be reshaped - nothing a rubber mallet and spray paint can't handle

    Left CV Axel - ordered already

     

    I have heard that there are a lot of interchangeable parts from later models. Any thoughts on things I can/should swap out?

    IMG_2862.jpeg

    • Like 1

  13. Just now, toodeep said:

    Have you tried pushing on each individual wire with a pair of needle nose to see if just one single wire will make the fan come on?

    Yes. No consistency once so ever. 


  14. So I went through the effort of tearing all the pins out and they all look good. I have no clue where to even start next. I’m still having the same issue. The FCU is hard wired to the battery ground currently and I’m still only able to get the fan to turn on with downward pressure to the connectors like shown in the above video. 
     

    anyone have an idea where to look next?

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